gtodoug

what spark plug gap did you run on the tr6's

tim414

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Stock tune
Stock air filter
Stock exhaust manifolds
Stock cats
Stock mufflers
Stock timing tables (I had turned on the fans sooner, and killed CAGS)

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

This car is a 2008, and did go in to GM for the 02 sensor TSB. As far as I have seen there were no changes to the timing tables or main fuel tables.

Tunes have changed over the years from what I have seen. Some things as minor as a voltage table for the injectors to transient fuel tables. For the most part they all look relatively similar.

z06chief

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0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Results from a week of driving (did the plug change last week)

Log records were done last night and this morning, this is the worse of the two runs (approx 32mins of driving combined stop and go and highway, same as before log runs).

NGK TR6iX plug after 300 miles (approx)

Notice no more pepper marks.

Stock AC plug vs NGK

Notice the change in tip projection from the end of the plug vs stock

Almost to ZERO knock!


Need to dig a bit more into the table to see if this was on decell, if it was just a pop or possibly just general noise or the pump fuel itself. Either way we have killed 99% of the knock that was there before hand.


So the long and short of it.

Listen to your car, it will tell you what it is going to want. In this case we have a stock car that is running into some timing issues and the result is a better running car with a slightly colder plug. Those of you that are modifying the car, which most of us are. You can benefit in a number of ways because you are more than likely creating more cylinder pressure, more HP, and more heat. A colder plug will allow more timing and less chance of detonation.

For those not wanting to make a tuning change in the ECM this is a good way to help your car on track as well. Just like running better engine oils and better fuels on track under heavy load conditions.


It should be noted that the factory does want a very clean and hot burn for emissions. Those that rarely drive the cars, or do not drive them that hard, this might not be for you.

smurfkiller

im familar with the tr6

what is the diffarence between tr6 and the tr6ix

i know they are both 6 heat range , they are both resistor plugs as well correct

the I is for iridium correct

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

You got it. We generally use a TR55, 6, 7, or 8 depending on application. We have had good results with the iX plugs in forced induction applications and wanted to try a long term mileage report with them in a NA application.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...x.asp?mode=nml

bktmbill

sounds like a nice inexspensive mod. i do notice when temps get around 210-215 car seems to get a little doggy. would this help reduce power loss in your opinion at these higher temps. 08 z stock with factory tune no mods. driven about 5k a year.

lemans

Will this plug void the warranty? Seems like a easy fix, the car does get slower at very hot/humid days.

Edit: What gap for stock cars?

Thanks

LS7-EB

Is anti-seize recommended for the plug threads on aluminum heads?

toxin440

Subscribed as well -- I have an 08Z06 - and this sounds like a perfect cheap thing to do that can't hurt. It's a street driven Z, some track days in the past. Bought it new, and haven't checked the plugs (now 22K miles)

I saw an 8 pack of the plugs (NGK TR6iX) online for ~50 dollars. Not bad!

Michael_D

Tony -

What plug would you suggest someone run with a 550'ish rwhp car? I've been logging KR and chasing timing for weeks. My state's wonderful 90 octane premium isn't helping things one little bit either. Where I am having the most KR is under 2200 rpm, fifth / six gear light throttle. I'm running NGK TR6's. I've tried gaps between .035 and .042, with no difference. I was going to try some 7's, but I'm a bit leery than I might just end up with fouled plugs.

TurdsOfMayhem

I'd use it, used it when changing plugs on my F-Bodies.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Yes, but remember it still has to ground the plug at the head so don't go nuts with it. You can use either a copper based anti-seize or alum. based.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Depends on what it causing the car to bog down. If it is knock, or something else. The cars do have modifier tables to either add or remove timing based on things like coolant temp, air intake temp, A/F desired and other things.

The car will generally not start to pull timing water temp wise until closer to 212 were it can pull 1 to 3 degree's depending on load. Air intake temps however it can start to pull as low as 86 degrees.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Depends on cam timing and if you did anything to increase compression.

If the cam has a lot of dynamic compression....you might just have to much timing in it down there. There are some cams out there, especially some of the smaller ones that might not even take stock timing in them due to that very same reason.

I would have a chat with the cam designer and see what they say, if it would be plug or just timing.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

That would be a GM Rep question.

All testing was done here in 89-98 degree Texas heat..

carpe dm

Great! Thanks. Looking forward to the update.

40YRW8

I remember a lengthy article done with an automotive electrical engineer that appeared in Hot Rod Magazine back in the very early '70's. Out of all the different types of spark plug designs, he said that, by far, the absolute best method of lighting the combustion process in almost every scenario was jumping the spark from a single, fine wire. Unfortunately, he said that there just wasn't the metalurgy available to produce a plug that would live longer than a couple thousand miles. I am convinced that the fine wire iridium plugs are the best ever designed and a noticeable improvement over anything else out there. For you street drivers, the TR-6iX might give you a couple horsepower on the chassis dyno. That is, if that is what is important to you.
Gary
Gary