Jr1854

Ok guys looking for a little help here. Running pilot super sports on 07 Z06 trying to figure out tire pressure. Usually run Bigwillow,Buttonwillow,Auto Club Speedway and a couple others when I can. Usually what is the best starting point and which way to go when the track starts getting hot? Thanks for the help.........

Racingswh

28 cold. 38 hot. Over that let some air out. 40's psi hot will feel slippery as the tire starts to crown in the middle and grip is reduced.

rsalco

[Watkins Glen]

Carnac

Same thing works for me. Sometimes I will start the fronts at 27 - they heat up more than the rear. I usually have front tire pressure set in the DIC so that I can glance the the pressures during my cross check.

Jim

AzDave47

I look to end up with 36F 35R hot. Starting both out at 27 won't give you low tire pressure warning (@24-25) and will avoid high tire pressure warning at 42. I try to avoid that warning because it takes over the DIC display and on track I want to see what my hot oil temperature is.

M1 5W-30 is OK to 265* oil temp, but like me, you may find it will go above that and I've swapped to M1 0W-40.

If you have a newer Z with the water/oil cooler you could probably run M1 15W-50 where you are during the warmer months.

ckchan10

For MPSS I personally like to start at 26psi cold and ends up somewhere near 35-36psi hot. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the recommendations that others have posted. Just get a feel after a few sessions and adjust to whatever works best for you.

Jr1854

Thanks that gives me a good place to start..... As far as oil goes I have an 07 Z and it does get hot. You trust m1 o-40 and does it run cooler? Thanks for all the info guys

AzDave47

M1 0W-40 does not run cooler, still at 285*, but the Euro formula 0W-40 is a much better synthetic than the 5W-30 and it's shear strength is still good at the higher temperatures our engines see on a road circuit. A number of the top European manufacturers will use M1 0W-40 as a factory fill and C6 Corvettes delivered in Europe use it as the dealer fluid.

I have Blackstone test my oil when I change it and have always had good results, more so with the M1 0W-40 than the 5W-30 although that tested OK, too. I just don't want to run M1 5W-30 at over 260*.

Jr1854

AzDave47 thanks for the info and I will switch the next the service

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Oil pressure is key #1. If you are loosing pressure, then you need to cool it off or get a thicker oil.

you would like to run as thin of an oil as you can get away with given the temps you are seeing. To thick of an oil can actually make the car run hotter due to friction of just pumping it. That being said, anything north of 250 I feel a 5w30 is to thin when you are talking about street oils. I would say 10-40 or 15-50 as most of you are going to see temps north of 280 pushing it in the summer.



As for tire pressures....try going a little lower and see if you like it. Hot pressure in the 32-34 range.


Anthony

Dan_the_C5_Man

A lot of folks like to run higher pressures in an attempt to stiffen the sidewall / quicken the steering response, or to help with poor camber settings / edge of the tires rolling under, but recent tests in mags like Grassroots Motorsports show that 32 PSI is pretty much the magic number for maximum grip.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

I don't know if I would ever try and correct a poor alignment with tire pressures......

blkbrd69

+1

Good guide

Dan_the_C5_Man

Better phrased - "insufficient camber". As you know, what works killer at the track can cord the inside edge of tires on the street.

I always shoot for an alignment biased towards the track, but with "reasonable" tire life on the street.

I suppose one advantage (if there is one) of RF's is the stiffer sidewall, which means you can run lower pressures without chewing up the outside edge.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

13mm wrench, adjustable wrench, 13mm, 15mm, 19mm sockets and a jack should be all you need to make quick adjustments at the track. The cars are pretty easy to do on the C5/6 cars to make a change there and put it back before driving it home again. Once you know what each shim does to effect toe..document it and make the change back and forth.