[Z06] Thoughts on extended thread lug nuts
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thoughts on extended thread lug nuts
Was wondering what you guys thought about some extended thread lug nuts. I wanna use .500-.625" wheels spacers all around with my stock wheels; they are sunk in way too much. I know the proper thing would be to put longer studs on. Though if extended thread lugnuts will be sufficent I will use those since it would way easier than pulling my hubs to press new studs in. It appears from the quick research I've done, the extended thread lugs seem to have about 1/4" extra thread on them.
#2
Racer
Maybe I'm just not getting it, but I do not see how any nuts could make up any additional length on the studs.
The right way to do this is with wheels that actually fit the way you want. Please do not use spacers on this caliber of car. It's not a Honda Civic. Even cheap cast wheels is a better choice.
The right way to do this is with wheels that actually fit the way you want. Please do not use spacers on this caliber of car. It's not a Honda Civic. Even cheap cast wheels is a better choice.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Maybe I'm just not getting it, but I do not see how any nuts could make up any additional length on the studs.
The right way to do this is with wheels that actually fit the way you want. Please do not use spacers on this caliber of car. It's not a Honda Civic. Even cheap cast wheels is a better choice.
The right way to do this is with wheels that actually fit the way you want. Please do not use spacers on this caliber of car. It's not a Honda Civic. Even cheap cast wheels is a better choice.
Here is a pic of an extended lug
<br >
#5
Instructor
The problem is the weight is still bearing farther on the end of the stud.
Never been a fan of spacers working at a Discount Tire for several years when I was younger; especially that large, but you're on the right track. Extended studs are the way to go WITH the extended nuts or open ends.
Might want to check with the more experienced vette guys on rubbing issues though.
Never been a fan of spacers working at a Discount Tire for several years when I was younger; especially that large, but you're on the right track. Extended studs are the way to go WITH the extended nuts or open ends.
Might want to check with the more experienced vette guys on rubbing issues though.
Last edited by TheSenator; 05-03-2016 at 01:50 PM.
#6
Team Owner
Was wondering what you guys thought about some extended thread lug nuts. I wanna use .500-.625" wheels spacers all around with my stock wheels; they are sunk in way too much. I know the proper thing would be to put longer studs on. Though if extended thread lugnuts will be sufficent I will use those since it would way easier than pulling my hubs to press new studs in. It appears from the quick research I've done, the extended thread lugs seem to have about 1/4" extra thread on them.
Last edited by MTPZ06; 05-03-2016 at 03:35 PM.
#7
Racer
I like the look of the factory wheels, they are light too; they just need to sit closer to the fenders. I know this is not a civic. Also there is no problem using properly designed spacers. **** we use wheel spacers every day on the race cars I build for a living. They aren't even hub centric like the corvette or most street car stuff is; they are centered off of he lug taper.
Here is a pic of an extended lug
<br >
Here is a pic of an extended lug
<br >
#8
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No matter how you go about changing anything, a lugnut should have a minimum of the same length of thread contact as the stud diameter. Since the thread on the stud is 12 x 1.5mm, that means 8 full turns after the beginning of thread engagement.
If you build race cars for a living, I would assume you already know that, but I'm reminding you and anyone else who reads this.
The problem with extended lugnuts is that if the extended part after the taper is not extremely close to the diameter of the straight bore of the wheel, the wall thickness is not sufficient to keep the internal threads from distortion and or intact. Most stock Vette wheels have a bore diameter of .602-.605. The major diameter of the lugs is .472, which leaves a maximum of .066 wall available for the extension portion. From an engineering standpoint, once you have an OD of the lugnut below .600, you quickly lose the strength as it gets smaller.
Considering the length of the stock studs, I'd be surprised anything thicker than a 1/4" spacer would allow for full thread engagement. You also need to ensure that the extended portion remains fully within the bore of the wheel, so there can be no deformation on the hub side that would capture the wheel and make removal impossible without damage.
If you build race cars for a living, I would assume you already know that, but I'm reminding you and anyone else who reads this.
The problem with extended lugnuts is that if the extended part after the taper is not extremely close to the diameter of the straight bore of the wheel, the wall thickness is not sufficient to keep the internal threads from distortion and or intact. Most stock Vette wheels have a bore diameter of .602-.605. The major diameter of the lugs is .472, which leaves a maximum of .066 wall available for the extension portion. From an engineering standpoint, once you have an OD of the lugnut below .600, you quickly lose the strength as it gets smaller.
Considering the length of the stock studs, I'd be surprised anything thicker than a 1/4" spacer would allow for full thread engagement. You also need to ensure that the extended portion remains fully within the bore of the wheel, so there can be no deformation on the hub side that would capture the wheel and make removal impossible without damage.
#9
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Was wondering what you guys thought about some extended thread lug nuts. I wanna use .500-.625" wheels spacers all around with my stock wheels; they are sunk in way too much. I know the proper thing would be to put longer studs on. Though if extended thread lugnuts will be sufficent I will use those since it would way easier than pulling my hubs to press new studs in. It appears from the quick research I've done, the extended thread lugs seem to have about 1/4" extra thread on them.
Here is a picture of the type of lug nut I use when I use the spacer.
This picture shows the nut I use Vs the Gorilla Locking Nut that is far too long.
When you purcahse the nuts make sure you are getting the correct length. I purchased my lug nuts from CCW just to be sure I got the correct ones.
Another way you can extend the length of your threads without going to extended studs is to replace the stock studs with ones purchased at AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. They usually carry Dorman stock replacement studs that are the same length as the stock studs but are threaded all the way to the end. The stock studs are not threaded for about the last quarter inch of their length.
I can't technically respond to HOXXOH's post above but CCW seems to know what they are doing and recommending. I don't think it would be in their business interest and giving up their good reputation to knowingly recommend something that wasn't safe. They have been making this recommendation since the C6ZR1 came out in the 2009 model year.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 05-04-2016 at 11:47 AM.
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Dan_the_C5_Man (05-04-2016)
#10
Was wondering what you guys thought about some extended thread lug nuts. I wanna use .500-.625" wheels spacers all around with my stock wheels; they are sunk in way too much. I know the proper thing would be to put longer studs on. Though if extended thread lugnuts will be sufficent I will use those since it would way easier than pulling my hubs to press new studs in. It appears from the quick research I've done, the extended thread lugs seem to have about 1/4" extra thread on them.
They are all made to order and hubcentric, very reasonably priced too!
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
I just came across them. I think I'm gonna order a set of 10 or 12mm spacers all around from them.
#12
In the 12mm they offer hubcentric to the wheel and to the rim with a lip they machine. But they recommended new studs with anything longer than 7mm.
You might be surprised how flush it will sit with the 6/7mm combo if you didn't wanna do new studs...
You might be surprised how flush it will sit with the 6/7mm combo if you didn't wanna do new studs...
#13
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Yes, you get about a 1/4 inch extra length of threads with ET lug nuts but you have to be careful when buying them. Some of them extend to far through the wheel and keep it from being tightened down. I had to run ET lug nuts on my C6Z with the stock replacment size Wilwood Rotors since the Wilwood Rotor hat had a depressed area in the middle of the hat. The stock wheel fit inside the depressed area but my CCW wheels had a larger diameter rotor face and rode on the radiused edge of the depressed area. That meant I had to use a small spacer so the wheel would fit flat against the rotor. The same problem exists with the Carbon Ceramic brakes available on the C6 and C7. I have two sets of ET lug nuts one set are Gorilla Locking nuts and they are too long and stick out the back side of the wheels. The other set I purchased from CCW and fit flush with the back side of the wheels (stock and CCW).
Here is a picture of the type of lug nut I use when I use the spacer.
This picture shows the nut I use Vs the Gorilla Locking Nut that is far too long.
When you purcahse the nuts make sure you are getting the correct length. I purchased my lug nuts from CCW just to be sure I got the correct ones.
Another way you can extend the length of your threads without going to extended studs is to replace the stock studs with ones purchased at AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. They usually carry Dorman stock replacement studs that are the same length as the stock studs but are threaded all the way to the end. The stock studs are not threaded for about the last quarter inch of their length.
I can't technically respond to HOXXOH's post above but CCW seems to know what they are doing and recommending. I don't think it would be in their business interest and giving up their good reputation to knowingly recommend something that wasn't safe. They have been making this recommendation since the C6ZR1 came out in the 2009 model year.
Bill
Here is a picture of the type of lug nut I use when I use the spacer.
This picture shows the nut I use Vs the Gorilla Locking Nut that is far too long.
When you purcahse the nuts make sure you are getting the correct length. I purchased my lug nuts from CCW just to be sure I got the correct ones.
Another way you can extend the length of your threads without going to extended studs is to replace the stock studs with ones purchased at AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts. They usually carry Dorman stock replacement studs that are the same length as the stock studs but are threaded all the way to the end. The stock studs are not threaded for about the last quarter inch of their length.
I can't technically respond to HOXXOH's post above but CCW seems to know what they are doing and recommending. I don't think it would be in their business interest and giving up their good reputation to knowingly recommend something that wasn't safe. They have been making this recommendation since the C6ZR1 came out in the 2009 model year.
Bill
Those too long Gorilla lugnuts are the problem we both addressed. If they bottom out on the hub, they aren't snug against the wheel. If they get tightened even more to hold the wheel in place, the minimal wall thickness can bulge to a greater diameter than the bore of the wheel in a similar manner as anchor bolts, rivnuts, or pop rivets.
Another concern you brought up is the use of Dorman studs. While the length of the stud may remain the same as stock, the lugnuts may not have enough depth of threads and therefore bottom out before the wheel is tight. The stock studs have the unthreaded end for three reasons. One is to avoid thread damage when putting wheels on or off. Next is to provide a lead to avoid cross-threading. And the third is to allow the stud end to be in the drilled area of closed end lugnuts where the roll tap can't reach.
Wheel spacers are a dicey thing where you must consider safety a whole lot more than simply the appearance factor. Measure everything.
#14
Burning Brakes
I have short ET like nuts with 1/4" spacers all around. There is enough engagement, but I probably wouldn't go any thicker. The look is really good but the fronts could come out another few mm. I feel it's a pretty good setup for not having to change the studs which I don't want to do.
#15
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Thanks for the pics Bill.
Another concern you brought up is the use of Dorman studs. While the length of the stud may remain the same as stock, the lugnuts may not have enough depth of threads and therefore bottom out before the wheel is tight. The stock studs have the unthreaded end for three reasons. One is to avoid thread damage when putting wheels on or off. Next is to provide a lead to avoid cross-threading. And the third is to allow the stud end to be in the drilled area of closed end lugnuts where the roll tap can't reach.
Another concern you brought up is the use of Dorman studs. While the length of the stud may remain the same as stock, the lugnuts may not have enough depth of threads and therefore bottom out before the wheel is tight. The stock studs have the unthreaded end for three reasons. One is to avoid thread damage when putting wheels on or off. Next is to provide a lead to avoid cross-threading. And the third is to allow the stud end to be in the drilled area of closed end lugnuts where the roll tap can't reach.
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have short ET like nuts with 1/4" spacers all around. There is enough engagement, but I probably wouldn't go any thicker. The look is really good but the fronts could come out another few mm. I feel it's a pretty good setup for not having to change the studs which I don't want to do.
Thanks
#17
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...spacers-6.html
#18
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The GM closed end lug nuts aren't a problem. They are two piece nuts. The shiny outside is just a thin piece of stainless sheet metal crimped to the real nut underneath. Pull the sheet metal cover off and there is an odd size nut underneath that is threaded all the way through.
#19
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Up until last year I had been using a set of stock lug nuts from C4s and early C5s that had the plastic outside cover. Those suckers were rugged. Hammer them off hundreds of times with an impact and they held up well. When I found I had to use a spacer and extended thread nut I stopped using them (5 were lost when the studs broke on my Z in T1 at VIR) but the other 15 were still going strong after use on 3 cars over 14 years.
Bill
Bill
#20
Safety Car
+1. I must have 4 bins of those from my Camaro racing days. And yes you can Impact them on and off a zillion times with nothing but cosmetic damage. We also could not pass tech with a closed lug nut nor a chrome lug nut. First you can't see the thread engagement and you don't really know what is under the chrome cover. So those exterior threaded nuts which are thicker than the non threaded would show the depth of threads and could also be used with the extra long ARP studs.