Peter (APS) IF YOUR WATCHING JUST SELL ME THE C6 Z06 INLETS ILL MAKE THEM WORK.i have the z06 front end and i can fabricate what ever else i need to make it work.

 

I agree.
The way the boost curve is flat to redline, and holding over 600tq all the way out.
That definitely is the best curve we've seen from an aps c6 base kitted car!
I think it pretty much proves the restriction is the inlet routing.

Shaun,
Which boost controller are you using, btw?

 

i really appreciate all the kind comments,thank you all.
im using the EBOOST2.

 

dyno video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZ1PXTGEycg

 

Here are a couple of pictures of a little routing project we did a couple months ago. This was specifically a fitment exercise and we didn't attempt turning the boost up because the current 670rwhp is still more than the car, suspension, tires, etc... can handle on a road course. Ultimately we had wanted to change the comp cover to a 70mm inlet connection and run the 70mm back section of flex tubing, replacing the 63mm, but didn't have time to organize the pieces before the car had to leave. It had seen 715+rwhp on the stock APS inlets previously on our dynojet with 345 Hoosier R6's sticking to the rollers but as I mentioned, the power simply could not be put to the ground so we turned the boost back down. Hope this helps some of you out that want to clear that 725rwhp air inlet hurdle....

 

Nice numbers.

I'm assuming Forge actuators?

 

thats real nice.so are you saying that its the routing that makes it restrictive or the 63mm black hose from the inlet cover to pancake pipe.can you just replace the 63mm hose and it fix it or do you have to reroute it also.
thanks for the pics.do you think that we could use the c6z06 inlet part that goes in the wheelwell and maybe just mock up the rest.i have the z06 front end.dont you think that we could just leave the pressure side alone and just route the inlet like the z06.

 

thanks.i still have the stock actuators and stock plastic bosch blowoff valves.i have the eboost 2 controller and its just set at 51.it goes all the way to 99.so im assuming that that means 51%.so its got alot left.my actuators are not even maxed out.without the boost controller its at like 7 pounds.
at 51% its has about 11.50 pounds of boost with the inlets on and off its at 14 pounds (still set at 51%). the eboost2 can max the inlets out in air flow and still have room left to go more psi.its been a real nice controller.

 

Yes, that is pretty much what I have in mind, pieceing it together with silicon 90's/45's and some straight sections of aluminum or stainless.
I think it will work out well.
Thanks for the pics of your hard work.

 

Shaun,
I think you could just reroute the inlet side(and leave the pressure side alone), but I think the advantage of using the crushed pipe for the pressure side is that you free up space to reroute the inlet piping.

 

i was thinking if we just had the pipe from the c6z06 that you route in the fenderwell the inlet side would then be out of the way and if you wanted to reroute the pressure side you could.but i have been known to be wrong alot i dont know what do you think?

 

The C6Z front doesn't really make a difference. We have an APS C6Z system on a C6. It does seem to be the 63mm tubing as well as the taper down to 63mm rear section of the pancake pipe that creates a "wall" just over 700rwhp, on our dyno at least. We are not sure if simply widening the rear of the pancake to a 70mm od and running a 70mm hose to the comp cover would solve airflow ?'s since we haven't tried it.

As far as the C6Z intake usage and keeping the current pressure side intact, I am not sure of the clearance issues around the suspension area where they would both be sitting. Then the stainless tubing that bends thru on the Z actually bolts to the front of the comp cover vs. the C6 which hose clamps the flex tubing on, so there would be modification there also. We have a C6Z getting an APS kit and have a C6 coming in next week for the standard C6 kit so I will play around with parts and see if I can get some pics. As I sit here and think about the C6Z inlet also kind of "pancaking" along the frame rail for tire clearance, it would lend itself to thinking the above situation of keeping the C6 pancakes and widening the rear to 70mm od and running 70mm tubing would be a similar thing.... ?????

Either way, we have a small cube forged LS2 engine we will be finished building in about a week that will be going in another car getting an APS TT, swapping from a Maggie, and we will be trying out some of these options

 

That C6Z inlet pancake section on the frame rail appears to be quite a bit larger in overall area than the lower pancake section in the base kit, so I'm thinking that helps inlet airflow quite a bit over the base c6 kit.

I like the idea of using a larger tubing to the turbo rather than the original piece, that should also help alot.

 

Remember though that the inlet pipes on the C6Z are cast aluminum and quite a bit thicker than the stainless. I do agree that they are still probably larger id since they will support over 1250hp vs. what we are looking at to supply 1000hp. Simply think of the difference in 63 to 70mm tubing and the jump that APS has seen on their C5 test car, GTO, and F-body systems. If memory serves me right, they made over 840rwhp with the 70mm inlets. The C6 gain should be very similar with the same modifications. We are simply looking at routing to get us to the 70mm inlet size. I will try to measure the front section of the pancake and see what I come up with. The back section of it is definitely smaller as it tapers to the 63mm connection for the hose.

 

that would be great if you could do some test fitting with the c6 z06 stuff ........wouldnt the only advantage to the c6z06 inlet be that it is a shorter run and a more direct run (assuming you expanded the c6 kit pancake).thanks shaun

 

Shaun,

Nice video and car sounds sick!! what exhaust are you running?

next time you are in vegas , hit me up!!! we will definitly hang out!!

Sam

 

Sam,
thanks,the exhaust is Random technologies 3'' all the way back with straight through mufflers,with just 2 tips out the back.i also have a video i can send you of a quick run to 170 mph (on low boost 9 psi)till the guy filming it with his phone wanted me to slow down.
i will hit you up the next time in Vegas for sure.
shaun

 

The E Boost controller must be a very nice peice.

I think you have proven the restriction in the intake of these kits.

With the inlets on, stock motor, I would see 13 psi max with yellow springs in the forge actuators on a stock motor, around 700 rwhp. I wonder what it would have done with the inlets on?

Just stay up on the tune and it will last a long time like that - watch the timing and run some torco fuel additive for good measure if you aren't already.

 

the eboost is nice,i like it alot.

i bet with the inlets off (or a less restrictive intake system) it would do the same as mine.you would see a little over 2 pounds more and it should hold it a little more steady i would think

did you ever get your boost issue worked out,after the new cam?and is your motor stock intenals or did you go back with forged internals? shaun

 

I rebuilt the stock motor with the stock crank and used manley h lite rods with mahle pistons. GT11 cam with stock heads. (basically cost me 2k for parts to rebuild the motor....not too bad).

I have the forge actuators in there now, but my inlets are hooked up as I drive the car a lot. I have readjusted the actuators and have not been able to hit the dyno yet. Maybe next week.

Congrats and Keep pushing that thing - these cars are real quick with 700+ rwhp!