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My A&A V3 Si Install

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Old 06-05-2009, 07:53 PM
  #41  
Fast06Z06
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
I really don't care if you agree or not, it's a fact. Look at every connector in your car and you'll see it's crimped. Look at the repair instuctions of any major auto company and they use splices not solder.

You're free to do as you like, but that does not make it correct.

Probably because its more cost effective in mass production to crimp not solder. I can say that from a continuity stand point and connection stand point. There isnt anything to make a better connection than solder though.
Old 06-05-2009, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
I really don't care if you agree or not, it's a fact. Look at every connector in your car and you'll see it's crimped. Look at the repair instuctions of any major auto company and they use splices not solder.

You're free to do as you like, but that does not make it correct.
You have to be kidding! It would take weeks to make one car! If weeks to make one if you solder every connection.Doesn't mean a crmp is better. Solder done right is the best
Old 06-06-2009, 05:10 PM
  #43  
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Update.... From last night
I'm pretty much done!!! YAYYAA!!
I got the plumbing and intercooler installed.
mounted oil catch can.

the only thing i have left to do, and thats being a PIA, are those T-Bolt clamps on the throttle body, maf, and intercooler. i dont know what it is, but they just seem too short, im making sure im using the right ones for each position, but i cant get the nuts started.

If it wasn't for having a FAST intake manifold, i would of been done already. i can already see the right side of the car is a bit lower, and i cant get the jack in the car on that side. grrrr!

-carl
Old 06-07-2009, 11:07 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Rock'n Blue 08
You have to be kidding! It would take weeks to make one car! If weeks to make one if you solder every connection.Doesn't mean a crmp is better. Solder done right is the best
Absolutely agree in consideration to the time factor to mass application that crimping indeed is the more practical of the two methods, however, scarcely seems plausible that suturing (crimping) would outperform the effects of cauterization (soldering) when properly done.
Old 06-07-2009, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by carlrx7
Update.... From last night
I'm pretty much done!!! YAYYAA!!
I got the plumbing and intercooler installed.
mounted oil catch can.

the only thing i have left to do, and thats being a PIA, are those T-Bolt clamps on the throttle body, maf, and intercooler. i dont know what it is, but they just seem too short, im making sure im using the right ones for each position, but i cant get the nuts started.

If it wasn't for having a FAST intake manifold, i would of been done already. i can already see the right side of the car is a bit lower, and i cant get the jack in the car on that side. grrrr!

-carl
Make sure you look at the new version of the install guide or the packing list as the October 2008 install guide has the wrong clamp sizes listed. Been through that confusion.

Steve
Old 06-07-2009, 02:23 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Fast06Z06
Probably because its more cost effective in mass production to crimp not solder. I can say that from a continuity stand point and connection stand point. There isnt anything to make a better connection than solder though.
that soldering is a better aproach, however car's have vibrations that lossen or crack over time.

Originally Posted by Rock'n Blue 08
You have to be kidding! It would take weeks to make one car! If weeks to make one if you solder every connection.Doesn't mean a crmp is better. Solder done right is the best
Not really, since the harnesses are made by an outside vendor and not on the factory floor.

Look at all the vibration problems that vettes have that cause soldered joints to weaken or crack. The HVAC unit, door control module, window motor units, etc...

The EBCM units are filled with silicone to stop the vibrations.
Old 06-07-2009, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by carlrx7
Update.... From last nightI'm pretty much done!!!* YAYYAA!!I got the plumbing and intercooler installed.mounted oil catch can.the only thing i have left to do, and thats being a PIA, are those T-Bolt clamps on the throttle body, maf, and intercooler.* i dont know what it is, but they just seem too short,* im making sure im using the right ones for each position, but i cant get the nuts started.If it wasn't for having a FAST intake manifold, i would of been done already.** i can already see the right side of the car is a bit lower, and i cant get the jack in the car on that side.* grrrr!-carl
** Keep going!* It will ALL be worth it soon!
Old 06-07-2009, 08:23 PM
  #48  
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WOOT WOOT,

Done, just waiting on the ECU and still gotta extend the TB harness.

I CAN"T WAIT! i think i put in about 36 hours of turning wrenchs



thanks everyone!! Dyno coming soon!

-carl
Old 06-09-2009, 08:24 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Google "cracked solder joints" and you might be surprised at what you learn. Solder joints and vibe/stress are a constant nemesis of the high tech world...not sure how this translates to the automotive world and failure rates when compared with crimp connectors though.
That ONLY because lead free solder has now become the standard for all newly manufactured electronics. Lead free solder is NOTORIOUS for cracking. Conventional Lead-Tin solder does not crack easily; you are much more likely to see the wire itself fail.
Old 06-09-2009, 08:28 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
I really don't care if you agree or not, it's a fact. Look at every connector in your car and you'll see it's crimped. Look at the repair instuctions of any major auto company and they use splices not solder.

You're free to do as you like, but that does not make it correct.
That is about as good of an argument as me saying cast pistons are better because "just about every factory car uses them"

Factory connections are crimped because crimping is faster and lends itself better to mass production. Period. You don't have to care if I agree or not but at least try to make a good argument for your point
Old 06-09-2009, 12:00 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by carlrx7
WOOT WOOT,

Done, just waiting on the ECU and still gotta extend the TB harness.

I CAN"T WAIT! i think i put in about 36 hours of turning wrenchs

thanks everyone!! Dyno coming soon!

-carl
Sweeet. Send me pics when you can for our gallery!
Old 06-15-2009, 02:43 AM
  #52  
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hey everyone, after a week long trip for uncle sam, i got back, installed the ecu, and she fired right up!

it was so nice hearing that supercharger whine, a little louder than what i thought it would be, but it will be my first, it did get quieter as the car warmed up..

so i hit a snagg, the hard line that runs from the passenger side head to the drivers side head, then to the T- that goes to the top of the radiator and to the coolant resovoir.

well i reinstalled the hard line wrong and now the bottom nipple got crushed, so i cut it off and can't get it to seal,, i just added some gasket sealer, (small amount) and gonna let it cure for about 8 hours before starting it up again.

anyways,, can anyone find the part number for me for that line? i cant find it on the gm parts house website.

there is alot of air in the coolant system still as the coolant temp just shoots right up to about 205, before install it would take a while but settle to about 175.

so besides that small coolant leak, its been great.

oh and my wheels are finished at weldcraft, and my 305 555r2's are hear and waiting too.

its all coming together. thanks guys,, pics coming soon.

-carl

p.s. i did take a startup video, will post later, lots of smoke from all the hands on the headers!! lol
Old 06-15-2009, 04:48 AM
  #53  
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I'm not trying to make an argument, just posting up relevant facts. If you don't agree that's fine, it's a free world, do as you like.

The idea of this site is to trade and share information, not everybody shares the same opinions. I'm not trying to win you over to my side.


Originally Posted by PowerLabs
That is about as good of an argument as me saying cast pistons are better because "just about every factory car uses them"

Factory connections are crimped because crimping is faster and lends itself better to mass production. Period. You don't have to care if I agree or not but at least try to make a good argument for your point
Old 06-15-2009, 09:18 AM
  #54  
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can you guys stfu about this soldering shyt!
start a new thread or something.

and for all of your info,, i twisted them together, soldered, liquid taped, then heatshrinked.

-carl

Last edited by carlrx7; 06-15-2009 at 09:23 AM.
Old 06-15-2009, 02:14 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by carlrx7
hey everyone, after a week long trip for uncle sam, i got back, installed the ecu, and she fired right up!

it was so nice hearing that supercharger whine, a little louder than what i thought it would be, but it will be my first, it did get quieter as the car warmed up..

so i hit a snagg, the hard line that runs from the passenger side head to the drivers side head, then to the T- that goes to the top of the radiator and to the coolant resovoir.

well i reinstalled the hard line wrong and now the bottom nipple got crushed, so i cut it off and can't get it to seal,, i just added some gasket sealer, (small amount) and gonna let it cure for about 8 hours before starting it up again.

anyways,, can anyone find the part number for me for that line? i cant find it on the gm parts house website.

there is alot of air in the coolant system still as the coolant temp just shoots right up to about 205, before install it would take a while but settle to about 175.

so besides that small coolant leak, its been great.

oh and my wheels are finished at weldcraft, and my 305 555r2's are hear and waiting too.

its all coming together. thanks guys,, pics coming soon.

-carl

p.s. i did take a startup video, will post later, lots of smoke from all the hands on the headers!! lol
I had some problems with the coolant and air. I followed the factory manual procedue and it fixed it right up. I don't have it up hand but hopefully someone can post it. Great job!

Steve
Old 06-15-2009, 02:23 PM
  #56  
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Simple technique to purge air from the cooling system. …There are two hoses on the overflow tank. Follow the smaller/upper one until you reach it’s junction point. Remove that connection. Fill the overflow tank and put the cap on tight. Blow into the overflow tank via the line that your removed. This will force coolant from the overflow tank into the cooling system. When the tank is empty, refill and repeat. Continue doing this until fluid begins to exit from the other end of that hose connection you removed. Reinstall hose. DONE! Works like a charm!
Old 06-15-2009, 02:38 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Simple technique to purge air from the cooling system. …There are two hoses on the overflow tank. Follow the smaller/upper one until you reach it’s junction point. Remove that connection. Fill the overflow tank and put the cap on tight. Blow into the overflow tank via the line that your removed. This will force coolant from the overflow tank into the cooling system. When the tank is empty, refill and repeat. Continue doing this until fluid begins to exit from the other end of that hose connection you removed. Reinstall hose. DONE! Works like a charm!
And Dexcool tastes very bitter FWIW.

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Old 06-15-2009, 02:51 PM
  #58  
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You must be using that cheap off-brand version of Dexcool. Stick with the top-shelf stuff...very sweet. I give it to all of my neighbors cats and they love it!
Old 06-15-2009, 07:34 PM
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One person's sweet is another's bitter. Ha ha.

Very nice job on the install btw.
Old 06-16-2009, 03:43 AM
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the gasket sealer did the trick,, its running nice! ,, i hooked up my autotap, and its running right on! LTFT's are around -3,to -6 at all different loads. im still waiting for the BAP to come in before i can goto the dyno and get it fine tuned, and for now, im limited to NO WOT and nothing over 4k, till then..

im still looking for the PN for that coolant line though..

and a review for those motor mounts,, very solid and nice,, slight increase in vibration at idle ONLY, very resonable,, and DD friendly. as soon as the tuning is complete i will give another update on the wheel hop.

and my coolant temps have settled at about 175 high way,, 180 normal,, ive only seen 192 once after a breif incounter with a lil ricer that was getting on my nerves, then came to a stop,, p.s. HE SAID, HOLLY ****< that is fast!!! i told him i was only at 1/2 throttle,, i think he shyt himself!

lol!!!


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