Originally Posted by TrenAman

Take this as a positive but I am learning from mistakes made around here. I am pulling my LS3 motor complete, selling it, and building a ground up forged motor. I want to get $$ for my existing setup before it goes BOOM!! 3-4 K will help on the new build..

best of luck on your new build!!

Originally Posted by PowerLabs

My car loses fuel pressure when driven for a long time because the pump gets hot... I think its on its way out, so I figured it'd be safest to upgrade it...
I am getting a Melling 10295 high pressure, coated oil pump that is also being ported. Is that good enough you think?

I didn't know you could run a 6 rib on an 8-Rib pulley... That's good to know! I will at the very least go that route then since I was planning on replacing my harmonic dampner.

Originally Posted by PowerLabs

Yes, and of course, you increase the power transmitted by the belt while simultaneously reducing the contact area available for the belt to transmit that power when you pulley down...
Andy, you know I respect your opinion, but the 8-Rib is another thousand dollars on a 7K build... If you can give me a better deal I'll swing it, but with the clutch, engine mounts (found out one of my mounts broke) and other stuff I really am trying to keep it under control here...



Yes, in retrospect, if I did this again / when I do this again I would like to have started my supercharger kit with a blower cam, a bigger blower, and an 8-Rib, even if the stock block could not handle what that setup would be capable off. The reason being that those things are enormously difficult to install once the supercharger is in, but not so during the supercharger install. Of course, A&A does have a very good reason to recommend the Si-Trim on most vehicles; it IS a more efficient blower when you are working in the low 600WHP range. If I didn't have to go forged, I would have remained completely happy with what I had.
Re: Car. Today I bought a (rather) used BMW 328Is today. It is horrible: it is automatic and slow, but it'll get me around in winter untill the 'Vette is all done.



I looked into it very carefully. Here is the breakdown: If I went with the T-Trim right off the bat the price difference would have been minimal, but upgrading the Si-Trim is $1100. The fuel system is another $1100. A set of larger injectors is another $595. The 8-Rib drive is another $995. Even if I got a killer deal on all those parts, we're still talking 3 thousand or so on top of the 7 I am already spending. Now I've got 750+ at the tires and the car needs more tire... So add widebody rear ($2000 painted), wider wheels ($1500) and wider tires ($1000). Now I've spent $14500 on a 65thousand mile car that is worth, what, about half of that in this economy? I love my car and I love this hobby but for the sake of being able to move on to something newer and better in a near future I just can't justify taking it that far at such a cost

Originally Posted by MachineWorks

Good luck.

Originally Posted by PowerLabs

After much consideration and talking to several tuners, engine builders and friends, I have decided the following:

I will keep my Si-Trim supercharger and pulley it down to 3.4", maxing out the blower somewhere in the 700WHP range.
I will swap out my fuel pump for a C6 Z06 pump and keep the BAP.
I will add a Methanol Injection kit

Engine setup as follows:
My stock LS2 365 cu. in. Balanced, blue printed and assembled with stock GM crank w/indexed & trued journals,
Callies 6.125" H beam rods rods, Wiseco 4.005" forged FI pistons w/tool steel wrist pins & anti friction coating on skirts
Total Seal stainless chrom rings .047 .047 3mm rings, Clevite MS2199 H main bearings, Clevite CB663 H rod bearings, Dura Bond cam bearings, ARP main studs, all oil galley plugs & dowel pins.

Custom Blower Cam, cam retainer plate
Timing chain Roll master double roller timing set w/ torington bearing & nitrided gears.
Melling 10295 high pressure, coated oil pump, ported
LS 2nd design ARP Pro Series 12pt. head stud kit for late model blocks
LS7 GM LS7 hydraulic roller lifters
Lifter Tray & Bolts LS1 Lifter Tray & Bolts
GM MLS head gaskets

I will re-use my heads; they will be lapped, resurfaced and re-assembled with:
Dual valve springs w/titanium retainers, amchined locks & locators, Viton valve seals
Manley 7.4 Manley 1 piece chromoly push rods 7.400" x 5/16 x .080" wall

I am requesting 10:1 compression. I expect that the blower cam will drop my boost down by about 1.5-2PSI, and pullying the blower down from 48000RPM at redline to 54000RPM at redline will raise boost by about 4PSI. I should be seeing 12-13PSI max with this setup which I expect to be fine for 93 octane + meth injection on a forged motor.

That's it. It will go back in the car with an RPS twin disk carbon-carbon clutch. I decided not to stroke, upgrade the blower, or add aftermarket heads on the interest of keeping everything (including clutch, meth kit, and other misc. stuff) under 7 thousand dollars since I still plan on selling the car and starting a new project in about a year and a half or so. I also think if I went much further than that I'd need a widebody kit, wider wheels and wider tires to get traction, and the engine would need a fuel system, an 8-Rib drive, and bigger injectors, and then the build would easily run into double my budget.

Comments / Suggestions?

Originally Posted by QwikC

An admirably prudent and practical build indeed, additionally however serving the interest as pertaining to fueling requirements, kindly find the following for consideration from someone who knows…

"Is your car basically a stock LS2 with the blower and maybe headers and exhaust? If so the BAP should be plenty adequate for what you have. Make sure that its wired right and its getting adequate power and that the wiring is sized properly. I have installed several of Andy’s kits and never had a problem with fueling, especially with the BAP added.

If you are slightly modded, then just go with a Z06 replacement fuel pump module. It is a drop in and I can personally tell you that the Z06 pump will support over 750hp without the aid of a BAP, I don't recommend it but I know it will as I personally tested it and it will fuel for 750+ rwhp.

"Fueling with the stock style pump will be much easier, less complex and much more reliable." –– tjwong

Hope the aforementioned helps in your decision-making process, and good luck with the build.

Originally Posted by PowerLabs

The following is exactly what I have decided Except I most likely keeping the BAP to ensure there is adequate fuel pressure up top. I may do a dyno pull without it to see if it is completely necessary or not.

Originally Posted by setxws6

Sam, you'll be fine with a 6 rib in my opinion for what you're wanting. I've got the 3.4 pulley on mine and I just can't see or tell any belt slip. If there is some it's a small amount. 8 rib would be nice, but 6 rib will do the job too, just get the tensioner nice and tight.

I think your build sound good. Not everyone is made to build there car to 900-1000+rwhp. I know I'm not. Plus, for the street 600-700rwhp is a solid hp to be at, and still be reliable with easier maintaince.

Originally Posted by Stage7

Congrats Sam. Good choice on the builder. Let me know when you are ready to put it in and I will drive down to give you a hand.

Originally Posted by fperra

Sam, make sure the RPS clutch has the steel flywheel. The aluminum one is too light. With the steel flywheel you will love the RPS twin disk.