After much consideration and talking to several tuners, engine builders and friends, I have decided the following:

I will keep my Si-Trim supercharger and pulley it down to 3.4", maxing out the blower somewhere in the 700WHP range.
I will swap out my fuel pump for a C6 Z06 pump and keep the BAP.
I will add a Methanol Injection kit

Engine setup as follows:
My stock LS2 365 cu. in. Balanced, blue printed and assembled with stock GM crank w/indexed & trued journals,
Callies 6.125" H beam rods rods, Wiseco 4.005" forged FI pistons w/tool steel wrist pins & anti friction coating on skirts
Total Seal stainless chrom rings .047 .047 3mm rings, Clevite MS2199 H main bearings, Clevite CB663 H rod bearings, Dura Bond cam bearings, ARP main studs, all oil galley plugs & dowel pins.

Custom Blower Cam, cam retainer plate
Timing chain Roll master double roller timing set w/ torington bearing & nitrided gears.
Melling 10295 high pressure, coated oil pump, ported
LS 2nd design ARP Pro Series 12pt. head stud kit for late model blocks
LS7 GM LS7 hydraulic roller lifters
Lifter Tray & Bolts LS1 Lifter Tray & Bolts
GM MLS head gaskets

I will re-use my heads; they will be lapped, resurfaced and re-assembled with:
Dual valve springs w/titanium retainers, amchined locks & locators, Viton valve seals
Manley 7.4 Manley 1 piece chromoly push rods 7.400" x 5/16 x .080" wall

I am requesting 10:1 compression. I expect that the blower cam will drop my boost down by about 1.5-2PSI, and pullying the blower down from 48000RPM at redline to 54000RPM at redline will raise boost by about 4PSI. I should be seeing 12-13PSI max with this setup which I expect to be fine for 93 octane + meth injection on a forged motor.

That's it. It will go back in the car with an RPS twin disk carbon-carbon clutch. I decided not to stroke, upgrade the blower, or add aftermarket heads on the interest of keeping everything (including clutch, meth kit, and other misc. stuff) under 7 thousand dollars since I still plan on selling the car and starting a new project in about a year and a half or so. I also think if I went much further than that I'd need a widebody kit, wider wheels and wider tires to get traction, and the engine would need a fuel system, an 8-Rib drive, and bigger injectors, and then the build would easily run into double my budget.

Comments / Suggestions?

 

Looks good. I wouldn't just order those pushrods. You need to measure them to determine correct length after you install the heads and the new camshaft.

 

The engine is coming back to me completely assembled as a long block, so I am hoping that Late Model Engines will measure everything very carefully before they put it all together

 

Good luck.

 

Might want to make hope a little more certain by giving them a phone call. I have always worked from the belief that if something can go wrong/be missed it usually will.

BJK

 

 

 

Hey Sam

Can LME add piston squirters? (ala LS9)

I know Katech does block maching for these, and its only a few hundred bucks...

 

It was a figure of speech. They are assembling the engine, they do it for a living, I would not expect them to still be in business if they missed things like that.

 

Sam, do you have room to make it 8-rib? Once you go over 10lb with smaller pulley, you start slipping when you punch it.

LME is a great choice!

 

Sounds like a good plan Sam. I might suggest comp cams just came out with new lifters called "short travel race lifters" part number 15956-16. worth the little extra for those high rpms

 

I'd go with the 8 rib. It's not just a matter of boost. It's also the accelleration rate. The engine is trying to accellerate the blower at a much higher rate as well as against more resistance.
If money's an issue, just put pistons in the stock block (honed 4.005), put studs in it and leave the rods and crank alone.
Just my opinion, and others will disagree, but I think that's money better spent.

 

Come on Sam.........sooooo close. ...just get the 8 Rib like Andy says and trade in the V2si for a T trim and make a solid 750 with it working less. Im sure Andy could give you a great trade in on the Si

Its bad isnt it.....like a disease.....

 

Sam, you will kick yourself if you end up with pulley/belt slip and have to do that part of it over with the 8 rib setup. I have the A&A 3.7"dia 8 rib blower pulley(pn# 2A038-370) you can have.

 

Glad to see you've got it all figured out, are you doing a rental car in the meantime or did you have a spare car?

On a side note, threads like this make me glad I started with the T-trim and 8-rib 3.8" pulley, so I've got some room to grow into the equipment. Of course my tranny would probably explode before I got to 700whp

 

Yes, and of course, you increase the power transmitted by the belt while simultaneously reducing the contact area available for the belt to transmit that power when you pulley down...
Andy, you know I respect your opinion, but the 8-Rib is another thousand dollars on a 7K build... If you can give me a better deal I'll swing it, but with the clutch, engine mounts (found out one of my mounts broke) and other stuff I really am trying to keep it under control here...

Yes, in retrospect, if I did this again / when I do this again I would like to have started my supercharger kit with a blower cam, a bigger blower, and an 8-Rib, even if the stock block could not handle what that setup would be capable off. The reason being that those things are enormously difficult to install once the supercharger is in, but not so during the supercharger install. Of course, A&A does have a very good reason to recommend the Si-Trim on most vehicles; it IS a more efficient blower when you are working in the low 600WHP range. If I didn't have to go forged, I would have remained completely happy with what I had.
Re: Car. Today I bought a (rather) used BMW 328Is today. It is horrible: it is automatic and slow, but it'll get me around in winter untill the 'Vette is all done.

I looked into it very carefully. Here is the breakdown: If I went with the T-Trim right off the bat the price difference would have been minimal, but upgrading the Si-Trim is $1100. The fuel system is another $1100. A set of larger injectors is another $595. The 8-Rib drive is another $995. Even if I got a killer deal on all those parts, we're still talking 3 thousand or so on top of the 7 I am already spending. Now I've got 750+ at the tires and the car needs more tire... So add widebody rear ($2000 painted), wider wheels ($1500) and wider tires ($1000). Now I've spent $14500 on a 65thousand mile car that is worth, what, about half of that in this economy? I love my car and I love this hobby but for the sake of being able to move on to something newer and better in a near future I just can't justify taking it that far at such a cost

 

Take this as a positive but I am learning from mistakes made around here. I am pulling my LS3 motor complete, selling it, and building a ground up forged motor. I want to get $$ for my existing setup before it goes BOOM!! 3-4 K will help on the new build..

best of luck on your new build!!

 

I don't think you need the Z06 fuel pump for 700hp. My 2006 + BAP was good for 800rwhp. You can always add the pump if you need it later. As others mentioned, you should consider installing an 8-rib damper at a minimum, since it is a PIA to install after everything is back in. You can run a 6-rib belt on the 8-rib damper without any problems and can upgrade the accessories at a later date if you need to. You should also consider a blueprinted oil pump - they are pretty cheap.

 

My car loses fuel pressure when driven for a long time because the pump gets hot... I think its on its way out, so I figured it'd be safest to upgrade it...
I am getting a Melling 10295 high pressure, coated oil pump that is also being ported. Is that good enough you think?

I didn't know you could run a 6 rib on an 8-Rib pulley... That's good to know! I will at the very least go that route then since I was planning on replacing my harmonic dampner.

 

I know what you mean about things getting out of control. lol I will be watching your build.