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Assuming the right rotating assy and valvetrain bits are used, what is the LS7 BLOCK's limits (assume stock 4.125 bore) in terms of FI boost/power levels?
Depends on the use. A dyno queen will put up with more power than someone who actually uses the car hard. IMO, there's probably a 200-300rwhp difference between what it will take on an occassional basis vs what it will take if you race it regularly.
Stock sleeves are inconsistent at best. If money permits I would prefer not to use them. Sure is a lot cheaper to do it right once, than have to fix it later.
Taylor, are you suggesting resleeving or just a different block?
Very impressed with the RHS block for the cost. We have a few builds going together with the RHS standard deck blocks and will be selling the LS7 blocks. Before the RHS block, sleeving the LS7 made a lot of sense.
Rough cost is $3000 for sleeves, machine work, install on LS7 block.
OR
$4500 for RHS block which has 6 bolt head provisions, billet mains, good sleeves, more rigid design, etc.
Seems like a no brainer to me. Not to mention the LS7 short blocks if still in good shape bring about $3500.
We have made 965rwhp and been 8.81 with our stock ls7 block. I agree with taylor though. If money allows resleeve it. I have used a few from ERL and they work good. Let me know if you need help with anything.
From: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Originally Posted by Taylor@DallasPerformance
Very impressed with the RHS block for the cost. We have a few builds going together with the RHS standard deck blocks and will be selling the LS7 blocks. Before the RHS block, sleeving the LS7 made a lot of sense.
Rough cost is $3000 for sleeves, machine work, install on LS7 block.
OR
$4500 for RHS block which has 6 bolt head provisions, billet mains, good sleeves, more rigid design, etc.
Seems like a no brainer to me. Not to mention the LS7 short blocks if still in good shape bring about $3500.
Just had a look on the RHS website, looks pretty nice. Aside from the obvious price disparity, how would that compare to DART's billet alum block for a 427ci FI application? power handling, oiling features, ... Just curious.
What kind of setups are you using RHS' blocks for?
Just had a look on the RHS website, looks pretty nice. Aside from the obvious price disparity, how would that compare to DART's billet alum block for a 427ci FI application? power handling, oiling features, ... Just curious.
What kind of setups are you using RHS' blocks for?
RHS block was designed for race applications.
Dart block was designed for bling applications or if you just have too much money.
Assuming the right rotating assy and valvetrain bits are used, what is the LS7 BLOCK's limits (assume stock 4.125 bore) in terms of FI boost/power levels?
Like stated above, the LS7 block is not the best foundation for boost. The sleeve composition was not designed to withstand the cylinder pressures associated with boost. Period. Re-sleeving the LS7 block with Darton, high nickel sleeves is an effective upgrade but may not be the best value considering the RHS block availability.
The RHS block offers premium sleeves, steel caps & main studs, priority main oiling, 6-bolt head mounting, and a host of other durability improvements over the LS7.
Base cost of the RHS is ~$4,500 and final blueprinting operations will be far less than if one used an LS7. Typically the block needs little more than torque-plate honing to finish bore size.
Assuming one already owns a suitable LS7 core, a comparable prepped LS7 (Darton Sleeved & blueprinted) will run ~$2900. At this point one would be wiser and money ahead (IMHO) to sell the LS7 core and buy the RHS.
There have been little failures, but one failure is all it takes for me to investigate.
We made over 1000 rwhp on a factory stock sleeved/LS7 block, and 6 texas mile runs at 900 rwhp+ with no issues. That engine is still in service today, and prior to that, it was in a 800 rwhp nitrous Z....
I will say the tune-up has more of an impact than 20 psi of increased cylinder pressure. The limits come from making a mistake. Read up on Formula one engines.... detonation and the streeses on the parts that come from the mistake. 20 psi under controlled combustion is a negligible rise in stress, but when uncontrolled combustion happens, thats when we break parts.
Last edited by Louis @ LG Motorsports; Dec 30, 2009 at 01:50 PM.
Only available as a complete crate engine. There is no ETA or availability on the LS9 bare block according to my GM rep. New bare LS3 block is available as we have built several engines with these and do have some of the newer windage work around the mains and such but is still wet sump design and does not use the 11mm head bolt.
Few real pics of the RHS for you guys. One really cool thing about the RHS is that I *think* we will be able to remove the lifters withOUT removing the cylinder heads since these windows are so large. I'll try later and confirm this.
One really cool thing about the RHS is that I *think* we will be able to remove the lifters withOUT removing the cylinder heads since these windows are so large. I'll try later and confirm this.
That would be pretty cool! That is one nice looking block!
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by Louis @ LG Motorsports
I will say the tune-up has more of an impact than 20 psi of increased cylinder pressure.
You of course know that if you are boosting 20PSI, the cylinder pressure is only 20PSI higher prior to ignition... At 20PSI your air/fuel mixture is about 125% denser and will release more than twice as much energy as it would if the engine was N/A... The post ignition combustion pressure is much greater than those initial 20PSI
You of course know that if you are boosting 20PSI, the cylinder pressure is only 20PSI higher prior to ignition... At 20PSI your air/fuel mixture is about 125% denser and will release more than twice as much energy as it would if the engine was N/A... The post ignition combustion pressure is much greater than those initial 20PSI