Dieseling condition with e-force?
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Well, if brain farts were dynamite, my a$$ would be gone....
The 57 lb inj by fast were LS2 injectors. Of course I need LS3/7/9 injectors so I'll be returning the FAST injectors to Texas Speed later this week. I believe they have some 65 lb injectors that will work with the E-Force configuration. Luckily, I didn't even open the injector package. Old people need to be watched very closely, lest they do stupid $hit.
Sigh...
Elmer
The 57 lb inj by fast were LS2 injectors. Of course I need LS3/7/9 injectors so I'll be returning the FAST injectors to Texas Speed later this week. I believe they have some 65 lb injectors that will work with the E-Force configuration. Luckily, I didn't even open the injector package. Old people need to be watched very closely, lest they do stupid $hit.
Sigh...
Elmer
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The stock injectors are LS2 sized injectors. The E-Force requires the shorter LS3/7/9 sized injectors. There is no way to reuse the stock injectors unless I remove the E-Force SC and put the stock intake back on the car.
Elmer
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Well, if brain farts were dynamite, my a$$ would be gone....
The 57 lb inj by fast were LS2 injectors. Of course I need LS3/7/9 injectors so I'll be returning the FAST injectors to Texas Speed later this week. I believe they have some 65 lb injectors that will work with the E-Force configuration. Luckily, I didn't even open the injector package. Old people need to be watched very closely, lest they do stupid $hit.
Sigh...
Elmer
The 57 lb inj by fast were LS2 injectors. Of course I need LS3/7/9 injectors so I'll be returning the FAST injectors to Texas Speed later this week. I believe they have some 65 lb injectors that will work with the E-Force configuration. Luckily, I didn't even open the injector package. Old people need to be watched very closely, lest they do stupid $hit.
Sigh...
Elmer
http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products...rs'-1.aspx
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Gotcha. Would be nice if someone had some ls3/7's to borrow first...
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I have the E38 controller as well. It is very simple. 
The limit is actually 63.5 lb/hr, or 8 g/sec. If it were my car, I'd throw in ID850s and never look back, because then you'd have boat loads of overhead and you'd know it isn't the injectors causing a problem.
That's just me.
That's just me.
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From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
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OK, here's the latest. We swapped the injectors and the damn car stops! It did it 4 times in a row and burped a little on the 5th. I just drove the car for 3 starts/stops on an errand. The car stopped perfectly all 3 times. So, an occasional burp is a whole hell of a lot better than a constant 100% diesel. I can live with this.
I did find out something of importance.
The Suncoast switch that I have on the NPP exhaust is important. IF you leave it closed during a dyno run, your boost will get to 10.7. Did you know that? DAYEM! After we got off the dyno, we discussed the exhaust and I opened it and did a little road test.
Note to self: ALWAYS open the NPP when you are going to kick the car in the *** and take it to full boost. 7.6 beats 10.7 in a stock engine.
Elmer
I did find out something of importance.
The Suncoast switch that I have on the NPP exhaust is important. IF you leave it closed during a dyno run, your boost will get to 10.7. Did you know that? DAYEM! After we got off the dyno, we discussed the exhaust and I opened it and did a little road test.
Note to self: ALWAYS open the NPP when you are going to kick the car in the *** and take it to full boost. 7.6 beats 10.7 in a stock engine.
Elmer
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OK, here's the latest. We swapped the injectors and the damn car stops! It did it 4 times in a row and burped a little on the 5th. I just drove the car for 3 starts/stops on an errand. The car stopped perfectly all 3 times. So, an occasional burp is a whole hell of a lot better than a constant 100% diesel. I can live with this.
I did find out something of importance.
The Suncoast switch that I have on the NPP exhaust is important. IF you leave it closed during a dyno run, your boost will get to 10.7. Did you know that? DAYEM! After we got off the dyno, we discussed the exhaust and I opened it and did a little road test.
Note to self: ALWAYS open the NPP when you are going to kick the car in the *** and take it to full boost. 7.6 beats 10.7 in a stock engine.
Elmer
I did find out something of importance.
The Suncoast switch that I have on the NPP exhaust is important. IF you leave it closed during a dyno run, your boost will get to 10.7. Did you know that? DAYEM! After we got off the dyno, we discussed the exhaust and I opened it and did a little road test.
Note to self: ALWAYS open the NPP when you are going to kick the car in the *** and take it to full boost. 7.6 beats 10.7 in a stock engine.
Elmer
Congrats.. what injectors did you use. I have the 52's that came with the eforce and have a very occaisonal burp left. Its down to maybe one out of 15-20 stops at this point so it doesnt bother me.
And pushing that boost with the npp closed is definitly a no no. I was told that at the install.
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From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
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My current set is a FAST 65#.
Well, you should have seen the eyes cross when that boost hit the big screen! Dayem!
Lesson learned. It never even crossed my mind the the NPP would cause that issue.
Elmer
Well, you should have seen the eyes cross when that boost hit the big screen! Dayem!
Lesson learned. It never even crossed my mind the the NPP would cause that issue.
Elmer
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St. Jude Donor '13
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OK, here's the latest. We swapped the injectors and the damn car stops! It did it 4 times in a row and burped a little on the 5th. I just drove the car for 3 starts/stops on an errand. The car stopped perfectly all 3 times. So, an occasional burp is a whole hell of a lot better than a constant 100% diesel. I can live with this.
Elmer
Elmer
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From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
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OK, this is probably my last post on this. I still have the dieseling condition. The condition has improved with the replacement of the ZR1 52 lb injectors. My last effort to stop the problem was installing long tube headers. The only thing I got out of that was more HP & torque. I still have 10 PSI of boost at 6400. I ended up with 538 RWHP and 502 lbs of torque. The LTs gave me 18 pounds of torque and 33 rwhp. We tuned out the KR from the engine and seem to have exhausted all of my options to stop the dieseling.
The car runs fantastic (a little louder than before) but I'm pleased with the way it runs. I'm just stuck with the way it stops and the dieseling condition. It's a 50-50 toss up as to whether it diesels or stops properly.
Thanks for all of the help and suggestions but might Casey has struck out at bat on this one.
Elmer
The car runs fantastic (a little louder than before) but I'm pleased with the way it runs. I'm just stuck with the way it stops and the dieseling condition. It's a 50-50 toss up as to whether it diesels or stops properly.
Thanks for all of the help and suggestions but might Casey has struck out at bat on this one.
Elmer
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I do find if I let the car idle for 20 - 30 seconds and then shut it down, most of the time there is NO diesel. Pull in to the garage and push the off button, and you get the little Texas-two-step fro the engine.
Elmer
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Hope everything else is going well for you.
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Elmer
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Remember, I do not race the car.
Elmer
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From: Valley Forge PA.
Elmer has the best knowledge on this. I worked with Chris at EB and got an "acceptable" tune -very little dieseling. I can send you the tune if you need it.
Sold the car and bought a new 427 Conv.
Damn nice car !!
Sold the car and bought a new 427 Conv.
Damn nice car !!
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Update:
Having had this setup for a while, I've found that I can bring the car to a stop and let it idle for about 20 - 30 seconds. There is an almost imperceptible change in the idle around that time and the rpm drops very slightly in revs. I see my A/F reading swing and smooth back out and after it does that, I can turn off the engine without any dieseling.
Elmer
Having had this setup for a while, I've found that I can bring the car to a stop and let it idle for about 20 - 30 seconds. There is an almost imperceptible change in the idle around that time and the rpm drops very slightly in revs. I see my A/F reading swing and smooth back out and after it does that, I can turn off the engine without any dieseling.
Elmer