I picked up a used LS2 shortblock and would like to start to get a plan in motion to build it for my Twin Turbo C5. The things on the car that will be staying are the APS twin turbo kit with upgraded billet wheel turbos (70 lb./min. each), built T-56 with McLeod RXT clutch. All of these parts are brand new and/or freshly rebuilt. Currently it runs on 93 + meth, but I do have easy access to E85 that I could throw in the mix, too.

My goal is to have an engine that will easily support 1,000+ rwhp and not be "on edge". It doesn't see the dragstrip, but I do enjoy the Texas 2k-like street stuff. I will say that with my eBoost2, I have multiple boost settings that I can change with the push of a button, so it's not going to be just cruising around town on full-tilt. Not to mention that no cars in my area have this much power, so it's pointless to have around here, but It would be cool to make it out to some get togethers in Texas.

I truly like the idea of the AES 385ci LS2 with the Callies crankshaft, Callies rods, CP pistons, good rings, ARP main studs and head studs.

Some questions I have are these:

Crankshaft: Compstar or Dragonslayer?
Rods: Compstar or Ultra H-beam?
Thoughts on O-ringing the block and heads? Reliability with lots of city driving?

Also, I honestly have no idea on what are the best cylinder heads for 4.0"+ bores without breaking the bank. On a 6-speed turbo car, do the rectangle ports fit better than the cathedral ports? I am a big fan of a thicker deck surface, but I'm not sure I could swing anything as pricy as the AFR/TF/Mast stuff. What are my options as far as best "value" to fit my application?

If I forgot any pertinent information, just post up and I'll answer it.

 

I think if you're shooting for ~1000 RWHP you're going to have to spring for the spendy 6 bolt heads and mod the block for them.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, Bill. With my power goal, I'd probably do my best to seal it with the 4 bolt configuration. I know many people never have problems with 900+ and thats without an o-ring.

 

Call mike at tea cylinder heads. I run gis trick flow 235cc and made 1172 not even trying!

 

Dragonslayer
Ultra H-beams

Those would be on the list if you don't want to be on edge.

Any aftermarket cylinder head with a thick deck will work. The ETP and PI heads are .750" deck. That's a good standard. Oring isn't needed.

 

Thanks Nick, I'll look him up.

Thanks Taylor! I appreciate the advice and trust it. Good to know that the machine work money for o-ring can go towards a better set of heads.

 

nothing in the area huh?? i'll play in my na car..got stuff to do this weekend, but will be out next weekend.. your twins won't like it..

 

We can sure find out when the front of my motor or new motor is in. I can't race when my oil pressure doesn't rise past 25psi LOL

 

Lol that's fine.. You either win or lose.. Also my vote on a 346-416 4" bore stuff would be the tfs 235's or if you can find a decent used set of afr 225's.. They're about the best bang for the buck, less you can find some used etp 11* heads.. And this stock short block na car is gonna have everyone scratching their heads.. I'm thinking it might end up being one of the highest na ls hp stock production short blocks ever and I'm no dummy..

 

I know that's right, man! I knew you had a Zoh, but didn't realize anyone else around here was actually building them. We're not exactly in a town full of cool hot-rods. Didn't mean to step on any toes. I'm keeping all my options open as far as cylinder heads go for now.
I did a little searching this morning to see if I knew you and unless I'm missing something, an RHS based 441, 14:1 CR, E85 build isn't exactly "stock" LOL Very badass nonetheless.

 

RHS block and ETP heads are not on the car.. couldn't ever get Erik at HKE to call me back, so I'm just doing WCCH ported and milled heads, cam, Marcella sheetmetal intake, 2" AR's etc etc.. Thinking in decent weather it'll make 675-690 rwhp..

 

I had that same problem with Erik years back. He finally got back to me after I had my motor built by LME.

 

I'll give this a year or so then get him to build the long block and do a DP F2 kit or twin 67mm kit..

 

That'll be killer man!
Taylor is awesome to work with an overall awesome dude!

 

Keep cubic inches under 400, and you will be fine. The AES 385/390 is nice, fair lead time as well.

Ive had two cars kill that clutch at the 900-950 rwhp level, so the clutch, injectors, fuelsystem, turbos will all be done at that same time, so thats pretty much the limit, 1000ish rwhp. Turbos will only support 1000-1050 tops, on kill.

I would definitely go the E85 route, but the fuel system is going to cost more than the engine.

 

Thanks for the advice, Louis.

 

subscribed.... I am planning on building something similar with LS2 Chris

 

Awesome dude!
Ill keep it updated with what I decide.

 

Chris I have the same goals in mind and had my shop design a build. They're also thinking a 390 ci LS2. I wonder if either of our setups will be able to dethrone the 6 speed record. Were now looking at upgrading the inlet side piping to be bake to support the boost. Do you have any pictures of what you did? I thought I read in another post you ditched the pancake pipes. Ever figure out your oil pressure issue?

Chris

 

Not true Bill. I have stock 243 heads.