DSS Bullet Proof
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
While I am talking about broken parts, I may as well show the carnage from those last couple weeks.
Yes that is grease all over my sub frame, exhaust, diff case, and a broken brake line to boot.
Yes that is grease all over my sub frame, exhaust, diff case, and a broken brake line to boot.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
Notice a subtle difference between the ZR1 and Z06 diff case that will cause some hassles. As you can see in the picture below, the green cirle shows where the z06 case would usually have your differential cooler feed fitting. The line circled in red would usually plug into the case at the bottom.
The ZR1 fitting points toward the sub frame and there is no clearance to squeeze the line between the diff case and sub frame. The ZR1 must have notched the sub frame, or given more clearance in the original casting.
The ZR1 fitting points toward the sub frame and there is no clearance to squeeze the line between the diff case and sub frame. The ZR1 must have notched the sub frame, or given more clearance in the original casting.
_Sloth Whisperer_
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 9
From: Malaysia Air Flight 370
I hate how common small obstructions like that are and how much they can throw a wrench in what is supposed to be a quick and straightforward swap.
Looking at it, you won't likely have room to get a drill at it from a straight-on vector, so you may have use a longer bit to drill through both the front and rear walls of that part of the crossmember. Of course this is predicated upon how much material is in the way at all. The picture doesn't show whether the current boss hangs down far enough for a notching to work, or if it's tucked up high enough to need drilling. Either way, easy fix, and no need to drop the assembly.
Just my thoughts.
Looking at it, you won't likely have room to get a drill at it from a straight-on vector, so you may have use a longer bit to drill through both the front and rear walls of that part of the crossmember. Of course this is predicated upon how much material is in the way at all. The picture doesn't show whether the current boss hangs down far enough for a notching to work, or if it's tucked up high enough to need drilling. Either way, easy fix, and no need to drop the assembly.
Just my thoughts.
Last edited by SlickShoes; Dec 21, 2011 at 05:11 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,719
Likes: 3
From: Anderson Indiana
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 16
From: Amityville New York
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
I hate how common small obstructions like that are and how much they can throw a wrench in what is supposed to be a quick and straightforward swap.
Looking at it, you won't likely have room to get a drill at it from a straight-on vector, so you may have use a longer bit to drill through both the front and rear walls of that part of the crossmember. Of course this is predicated upon how much material is in the way at all. The picture doesn't show whether the current boss hangs down far enough for a notching to work, or if it's tucked up high enough to need drilling. Either way, easy fix, and no need to drop the assembly.
Just my thoughts.
Looking at it, you won't likely have room to get a drill at it from a straight-on vector, so you may have use a longer bit to drill through both the front and rear walls of that part of the crossmember. Of course this is predicated upon how much material is in the way at all. The picture doesn't show whether the current boss hangs down far enough for a notching to work, or if it's tucked up high enough to need drilling. Either way, easy fix, and no need to drop the assembly.
Just my thoughts.
_Sloth Whisperer_
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 9
From: Malaysia Air Flight 370
I'd honestly rather break a block than an expensive-*** built TR6060/ZR1 diff. There aren't too many places to go from that drivetrain. At least if you crack a block, you have an excuse to experiment with more displacement, deck height, etc. If the rotating assembly survives, you can sell that off to recoup funds for more CID and/or compression in your new block.
There's fun in upgrading, not so much in replacing something that's already supposed to be the top of the heap.
There's fun in upgrading, not so much in replacing something that's already supposed to be the top of the heap.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
I'd honestly rather break a block than an expensive-*** built TR6060/ZR1 diff. There aren't too many places to go from that drivetrain. At least if you crack a block, you have an excuse to experiment with more displacement, deck height, etc. If the rotating assembly survives, you can sell that off to recoup funds for more CID and/or compression in your new block.
There's fun in upgrading, not so much in replacing something that's already supposed to be the top of the heap.
There's fun in upgrading, not so much in replacing something that's already supposed to be the top of the heap.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 0
From: Concord NC
St. Jude Donor '10
Badass build, I'd love to have all of the C6Z/ZR1 stuff in the back of my car! I had no idea how beefy the ZR1 housing is, that's a nasty piece. I'm jealous of all the DSS guts, too. That stuff is truly nasty.
I'll give you a little heads up as to my experience with that clutch. It was great on the street, but I busted torque tube housings and diff cases semi regularly (I'd break something every 30-40 passes for a while) until I trashed my Spec super twin, and I'm not the only person on here that has had that experience.
My current clutch, even cranked down on the twin sintered iron discs, doesn't lock up as hard as the Spec....and solved all my issues breaking driveline pieces. Getting rid of the Spec was the best investment I've made yet.
I'll give you a little heads up as to my experience with that clutch. It was great on the street, but I busted torque tube housings and diff cases semi regularly (I'd break something every 30-40 passes for a while) until I trashed my Spec super twin, and I'm not the only person on here that has had that experience.
My current clutch, even cranked down on the twin sintered iron discs, doesn't lock up as hard as the Spec....and solved all my issues breaking driveline pieces. Getting rid of the Spec was the best investment I've made yet.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
Badass build, I'd love to have all of the C6Z/ZR1 stuff in the back of my car! I had no idea how beefy the ZR1 housing is, that's a nasty piece. I'm jealous of all the DSS guts, too. That stuff is truly nasty.
I'll give you a little heads up as to my experience with that clutch. It was great on the street, but I busted torque tube housings and diff cases semi regularly (I'd break something every 30-40 passes for a while) until I trashed my Spec super twin, and I'm not the only person on here that has had that experience.
My current clutch, even cranked down on the twin sintered iron discs, doesn't lock up as hard as the Spec....and solved all my issues breaking driveline pieces. Getting rid of the Spec was the best investment I've made yet.
I'll give you a little heads up as to my experience with that clutch. It was great on the street, but I busted torque tube housings and diff cases semi regularly (I'd break something every 30-40 passes for a while) until I trashed my Spec super twin, and I'm not the only person on here that has had that experience.
My current clutch, even cranked down on the twin sintered iron discs, doesn't lock up as hard as the Spec....and solved all my issues breaking driveline pieces. Getting rid of the Spec was the best investment I've made yet.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 0
From: Concord NC
St. Jude Donor '10
I had a custom twin 8.5" sintered iron slipper clutch built. It was done by Rob Youngblood of Advanced Clutches http://www.advancedclutches.com/metalcoverclutches.htm. Its a pricey piece but cheaper than yet another diff.
PM me if you want to know more, I've found it to be street friendly, along with being both measurably faster and far more consistent out of the hole, all while being easier on equipment. Its not really a lot of work if you set it up right (a lot easier than breaking parts) and works well with the QTP bellhousing with some basic machining.
PM me if you want to know more, I've found it to be street friendly, along with being both measurably faster and far more consistent out of the hole, all while being easier on equipment. Its not really a lot of work if you set it up right (a lot easier than breaking parts) and works well with the QTP bellhousing with some basic machining.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Do you honestly think the brace, which is 4-5' back behind the torque tube assembly broke an ear off your engine?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 16
From: Amityville New York
I said I saw a car with an ECS brace broke the ear of his motor where the bellhousing was bolted to the motor. I am only saying what I saw and it was a C5.
My motor is a different situation and maybe you're interested in my theory here about my motor, I have closed that book and enjoying my new power.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
DSS makes the best product on the market. You won't need worry about it at all.
When did I said my engine broke from a brace????? Maybe you need to read properly before having onething in your mind.
I said I saw a car with an ECS brace broke the ear of his motor where the bellhousing was bolted to the motor. I am only saying what I saw and it was a C5.
My motor is a different situation and maybe you're interested in my theory here about my motor, I have closed that book and enjoying my new power.
I said I saw a car with an ECS brace broke the ear of his motor where the bellhousing was bolted to the motor. I am only saying what I saw and it was a C5.
My motor is a different situation and maybe you're interested in my theory here about my motor, I have closed that book and enjoying my new power.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
You will need to modify the bell housing before install. If you bolt the slave cylinder on the torque tube, then slide the new bell housing on top of the torque tube, you will see where you need open up the previsions for the slave cylinder lines. Give your self a little extra room so the lines don't rub on the bell housing.