When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
while the torque tube is bolted, the driveshaft is not. Its in a floating bearing housing in the torque tube at the front of the engine. it can expand at different rates vs the torque tube. There is a lot going on there, for sure.
I have a fresh crank with the proper bobweight out of an LS7 that was sent out and inspected and mag'ed if you are interested.
i think the machine shop said they need to take .007 off the crank thrust wall, which would make the need for a .014 bearing from outside to outside of thrust flange.
i am betting that does not exist, or anything close to it?
Louis, thanks for the offer. feel free to pm me.. tho probably going to have to take the dragonslayer option pending a pm response about it's specs.
thanks guys.
i found today a thread about this exact same thing happening to more than one ''innocent bystander'' on here.. there MUST be a way to prevent this.
i have an idea for a separate fix.. not that it will make it to production with me not being a company.. anyways.
nick i agree that rubber couplers wont make it at high hp. its my opinion with ongoing review that the alum couplers not being flat, created a wobble/vibration that tore up the bushing in the converter, and cracked the spline drive. but did not necessarily cause the thrust bearing failure, tho it may have exaggerated it.
i think at this time the rpm billet slip coupler is a must-have. especially once you choose to not run the factory front flex plate for strength or sfi regulations. you have to have something to accommodate the movement.
i believe so much so that i don't think any of the above should be sold without the other... it has and will cost people engines. any of the parts should also come with a warning/disclaimer if you choose not to install the set (if was my business to sell them)
When installing new Tilton clutch I pulled out shaft out of torque tube to inspect and rubber couplers look good. I didn't expect to find any issues as low miles and very little track time. As with most parts life expectancy is greatly shorted with traction.
If track visits are occasional then I see no problem running rubbers couplers on a nice DSS shaft with stock flex plate cone/coupler. Tell me if you disagree.
but i´m trying to understand how was your driveline setup when this happened what aftermarket parts and what GM parts where you using
and how are you gona hooke it up now.
Sorry to hear about this. This should be all over the forum. I have just installed a new 402 A4 and replaced the couplers with six shooters by prothane. Has anyone had this failure happen with the prothane couplers installed?
some unrelated pictures till i measure the crank movement this evening
i ran 4 passes before the engine started grinding to a stop while idling.. so if i was to skip ahead a few thoughts, that's how long it takes before you start scuffing the block with the crank the fact that it 'seems' ok with the crank unclamped to the drivetrain makes sense.
From: Eastern PA:ECS Paxton Novi 1500(676rwhp,585tq on stock engine),LG headers, 410's, Corsa Sports, ECS Alky Kit
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by MIGHTYM0USE
some unrelated pictures till i measure the crank movement this evening
i ran 4 passes before the engine started grinding to a stop while idling.. so if i was to skip ahead a few thoughts, that's how long it takes before you start scuffing the block with the crank the fact that it 'seems' ok with the crank unclamped to the drivetrain makes sense.
Beat me to it^^^^^ . But I just had this issue with a friend of mine. Strange thing was it just toss the serp belt at high rpm all the time. When he brought it to me it was allready toast. We are re doing his engine now the crank walk so bad it split the mains and slightly bent the rods, And cut into the cylinder walls. Im going to call rpm for the fix. Also Im going to show him this tread. Good luck Dave sorry bout the hi jack.
I am pulling my drivetrain back out. I am not taking a chance with the Prothane Six Shooter Couplers. I am wondering if I should go back to stock OEM couplers or what options I would have. Is this RPM fix a slip spline coupler that stays loose for movement? Or is it just replacement rubber couplers with the use of OEM spline?
I still want the car rolling.. Id set it in the garage and just look at it all day. Maybe put a stock 4.8 in it and cruise around looking like im ready to kick some ***.... damn..