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First check and make sure your bypass is fully opening/closing. Have someone start and turn off the car and make sure it fully opens/closes. Also make sure your belt isn't slipping (it shouldn't be but just in case), if it is you will see some black belt residue around the pulleys or on the brackets.
Boost and spark are low in most of 1st gear, when you launched the car are you positive you had the traction control completely off? (push and hold TC button until DIC shows traction/active handling off). It doesn't look like you brake torqued the car any, you should give this a try, even if it's just up to 800 - 1000 RPM to give the engine a little load, this will prevent any bogging, bring up the boost/spark, and should help your launch quite a bit.
Yes the bypass is working perfectly. I can actually see it modulate from standing outside and pressing the gas. It modulates quit quickly.
Traction control is off. I press and held it for several seconds until it's off.
No I did not brake torque it that time.
Just checked the belt and no sign of wear that I can see.
What's the chance of an injecter causing this problem?
I'm not sure what you're waiting to here. I can tell you that the canned tune works. Its not the best tune you could have but it will run well.
If I heard from somebody that is actually using the canned tune on an LS2 A6 not LS3 but LS2 it would give me more confidence in the tune.
I'm sure you are right as I can't imagine Edelbrock putting out a product for this many years and it not working correctly.
I'm really thinking injector now. I need to get them tested. Maybe there was some junk in the fuel rails? Maybe I can pull them and send them off somewhere.
If it was an injector cutting out that bad you would most likely be getting p020X codes indicating the injector of the cylinder at fault, or p030X codes indicating misfires on that cylinder or if random cylinders it would be a p0300...
If it was an injector cutting out that bad you would most likely be getting p020X codes indicating the injector of the cylinder at fault, or p030X codes indicating misfires on that cylinder or if random cylinders it would be a p0300...
I was hoping I was on to something. So probably not an injector...
I'm going to log (try to log) some misfire data tomorrow. Is there anything you would like to see logged tomorrow?
yeah, you could drop the o2 sensor volts and add long term fuel trims, replace calculated load with cylinder airmass if it's available.
Yes, I believe that is available. I'll do my best to get the data Wed. In the mean time I went ahead and built a test stand for the injectors if it comes to that.
I used the old fuel rail and old 42# injectors and compressed air which can be switched to liquid if need be. I can read the pressure drop across the injector.
Last edited by Red Sleeper; Dec 11, 2012 at 09:11 PM.
I believe I have checked everything humanly possible without having HP Tuner software.
Orginally we thought I rolled the O-rings which now I don't believe was the case but I reinstalled the blower as suggested. Then it was suggested I change the spark plugs. Then the plug wires. Checked fuel pressure and fuel flow and now injectors. Can't find a darn thing wrong but the timing is all over the place and the car lacks smooth acceleration and has bad performance. I know the horse power is in there because ever once in a while she'll run like a scared rabbit usually when it is cold. Also, on ocassion it seems to run right and gives me the impression that it is fixed, several times I thought so but I think it was because it was cold out. Now a very helpfuf "yonson" has looks over a ton of my SCT data and says it there is no sign of misfire.
All I can do now is thank everybody that has tried to help me. I have not given up but I am getting a somewhat discouraged.
The way I see it I have a choice either buy HP Tuner or take it to a dyno and frankly I don't have a clue which would be the better choice.
Again Thanks, and I will probably start a new thread in the tuner section if I decide to buy HPTuner to find out how, what and where to buy it.
Log intake temps? Maybe the wire/sensor is pinched or loose and it is causing the computer to think IATs are all over and pulling tons of timing for a bit then going back?
You don't have what you need to find out what is pulling timing. Why not just take it to a good tuner for a proper tune. It is unlikely a mechanical issue is pulling the timing.
Burst knock, ECT, spark knock, IAT all affect timing and have tables to be configured.
Log intake temps? Maybe the wire/sensor is pinched or loose and it is causing the computer to think IATs are all over and pulling tons of timing for a bit then going back?
Very good idea but I'm afraid it isn't going to be that simple.
IAT's are great. You can watch the IAT's climb under boost and they do pull timing on a warm day but the temperature curve is smooth with no sign of a problem with the sensor. Today they leveled out at about 100*.
I have taken a hard look at all the sensors and can't find anything obvious.
You don't have what you need to find out what is pulling timing. Why not just take it to a good tuner for a proper tune. It is unlikely a mechanical issue is pulling the timing.
Burst knock, ECT, spark knock, IAT all affect timing and have tables to be configured.
I'm trying to decide if I'm going to a speed shop or buy software. Well, I'm definitely going to buy software but I wasn't planning on doing it until after the new year.
I don't like the idea of paying somebody to fix something I can fix myself but not only that good tuners far from me. On the other hand I would like to just get the darn thing fixed. If you know what I mean!
Keep in mind the car is driveable but just annoying at certain times. I can wait a while before I do anything.
The way I see it I have a choice either buy HP Tuner or take it to a dyno
Well, with a good tuner they should be able to ferret out if you have any type of mapping issue. If the maps are ok, they may be able to point to a mechanical issue/area. After the tuner, I'd think you either have the problem solved (it as a map issue), or you have better confidence it is a mechanical issue.
Well, with a good tuner they should be able to ferret out if you have any type of mapping issue. If the maps are ok, they may be able to point to a mechanical issue/area. After the tuner, I'd think you either have the problem solved (it as a map issue), or you have better confidence it is a mechanical issue.
Sound mechanical so far.. ?
Best wishes hunting.
Very complicated situation here. Right now I'm taking one step back and regrouping. I have been reading and educating myself everyday for a while now toward tuning/maping the LS2. I have a far amount of educational material on tunings cars and have been reading the HPT forum. I also have an strong electronic and programming backgroung so figuring this out is in my realm of possibilities. I also did a small amount of tuning in my C4 as I burnt my own chips etc. That is why I would rather figure this out myself.
I'm gradually closing in on the problem. There is a strong probability it's a tuning issue but there is no way I can say for sure until I get a copy of HPTuners. It's not a fuel problem or misfire. Timing is all over the place except at a steady cruise. I think HPT Scanner/logger will identify the problem. The only sensors that could be suspect are the MAP/IAT or MAF. Those are the ones replaced with the kit. However, I have been able to monitor those sensors with my freeby scanner.
We'll ALL know for sure in a few weeks when I get a copy of HPT.
Santa was good to me. I found a copy of HP Tuners under the tree.
I downloaded the E-force tune and the original stock tune into the laptop. I'm no genius but no dummy either (well could go either way). I think the main spark table high octane is corrupt. Anyway, this is what Edelbrock sent me for a tune.
I don't know how to post the tune or a link to it. If there is a way please let me know. Chances are there are other things corrupt.
That is not correct, or Edelbrock doesn't know how to tune at all.
Yip, unbelievable. When I first looked at it I was happy and pissed off at the same time. The odds of the PCM accepting a corrupt file I think would be slim to none.
I suspect it was sent to me this way but before we bad-mouth Edelbrock we must remember that Edelbrock didn't write the tune. I believe SCT did. Also, there is a possibility that my PCM might have a section of EEPROM or FLASH memory bad not accepting the changes. I really don't know how likely or unlikely that could be. We'll know when I upload it tomorrow and read it back.