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2008 a&a T trim, cam, 3.6 pulley, kooks 1 7/8 headers, Ceramic ZO6 mid pipe Kenny bell BAP, de witts radiator, rpm level 6, McLeod street twin, tick master, titanium retainers and lifters, 60 injectors, mgw shifter, snow stage 2 dual nozzle meth Full GS sport body, 20X14 3 piece Forza forged in rear wrapped with 345s and 20X12 in front ..... Car came from Florida and we put on the dyno made two runs both times left off early due to lean status 13.5. They say it needs to be tuned to Texas air and this is why its running like this.
Here is the wiring on my BAP. It looks different from the pic on a&a website. The previous owner drilled a hole in the car and ran one of the fat black wires through. Wonder if they added a pump in the tank. Is this normal wiring for the BAP. [IMG][/IMG]
Yea we put another wideband just make sure and they were both very close on AFR. Thus the reason we got out of it. He just came in for dyno pulls no tune was scheduled. Car looked nice just needs to be gone over and a tune and the car will be money!
They say it needs to be tuned to Texas air and this is why its running like this.
That right there is a load of crap
If I want to see if I have a fueling problem (not enough) then I just command the PE table to 1.47 (without meth) and see if it sends the A/F ratio significantly richer over the previous settings on the dyno. If you make the change but see no change in your lean condition then you have a fueling problem.
Since we know the injectors can handle your power level then the most logical issue would be the factory pump or the BAP is not functioning properly. Just because you have good fuel pressure doesn't guarantee all is well. You will need someone with HP Tuners or something else to help troubleshoot this.
If I want to see if I have a fueling problem (not enough) then I just command the PE table to 1.47 (without meth) and see if it sends the A/F ratio significantly richer over the previous settings on the dyno. If you make the change but see no change in your lean condition then you have a fueling problem.
Since we know the injectors can handle your power level then the most logical issue would be the factory pump or the BAP is not functioning properly. Just because you have good fuel pressure doesn't guarantee all is well. You will need someone with HP Tuners or something else to help troubleshoot this.
Why is that a load of crap? Its either in the tune or a mechanical limits of the pump or electrical. Thus the reason I stated the car would need to be gone over. Not like anyone is trying to pull a fast one on the guy. It needs to have the proper checks done on the car. He only came for a dyno nothing more. AFR was lean and having experience with this and not being a rookie we got out of it so he could drive the car home and not on a tow truck. Im pretty sure you would know this Chris. If this is the Chris I think it is back in the RPM days.
Last edited by JMBLOWNWS6; May 19, 2013 at 02:25 AM.
Why is that a load of crap? Its either in the tune or a mechanical limits of the pump or electrical. Thus the reason I stated the car would need to be gone over. Not like anyone is trying to pull a fast one on the guy. It needs to have the proper checks done on the car. He only came for a dyno nothing more. AFR was lean and having experience with this and not being a rookie we got out of it so he could drive the car home and not on a tow truck. Im pretty sure you would know this Chris. If this is the Chris I think it is back in the RPM days.
I agree with your assessment and by first looking at the file this would tell an experienced tuner right away if it was actually the problem. I was telling the OP to have someone set the P/E table pig rich to eliminate the tune possibility and then if there was no change richer then look to the fueling side - specifically the stock pump or the BAP.
BUT...
It is impossible that the problem has anything to do with the change from Florida air to Texas air. I know this for a fact from lots and lots of experience both personal and from tuning out of state cars. And I'm not saying that you said this because I wasn't there and have no idea, but if you did then that is what I am referring to with my comment.
With boosted cars going lean the most common problem I have seen is usually a fueling issue, because even a dumb tuner can set the P/E table value high enough to get the A/F ratio in the high 11's before the car leaves his shop.
The guys at lethal were nothing but professionals. They let me slide in with a last minute phone call just to see my numbers since I've been having problems with previous owner. They saw it go lean and didn't stay in it. We hoooked up to their W/B to see acccuracy of mine. It was very close so we let out again and decided to wait for a tune. The different "air comment" def was made over the phone when I first called and later in the shop however it wasn't made by the tuner but by another employee. I just let it fall on deaf ears anyway and brought the car home to start troubleshooting.
I agree with your assessment and by first looking at the file this would tell an experienced tuner right away if it was actually the problem. I was telling the OP to have someone set the P/E table pig rich to eliminate the tune possibility and then if there was no change richer then look to the fueling side - specifically the stock pump or the BAP.
BUT...
It is impossible that the problem has anything to do with the change from Florida air to Texas air. I know this for a fact from lots and lots of experience both personal and from tuning out of state cars. And I'm not saying that you said this because I wasn't there and have no idea, but if you did then that is what I am referring to with my comment.
With boosted cars going lean the most common problem I have seen is usually a fueling issue, because even a dumb tuner can set the P/E table value high enough to get the A/F ratio in the high 11's before the car leaves his shop.
Just curious if this is SD tune will adjusting P/E table do anything with AFR??????
Don't you have to copy paste the VE table to adjust AFR????