I'm not sure whether to shake my head or just laugh.

There are tons of other things it can do that it does very, very well. There is no reason to use it to try to 'check' rwhp of a supercharged car..if it were that easy then no one would mess with dynos.

Use it for something more important like AFR.

 

Unreliable? You expected a accurate "dyno" from a plug in device?

If you really wanted it only to display HP/TQ, then you could adjust the PID settings for that on the dyno until they line up. That is about the stupidest use for the device I can think of but if that is what you want, you could do that.

All the other sensors it reads direct from the ecu and is as accurate as the car is.

 

Wow...he actually just listed it in the "for Sale" section for $225. Good deal for someone looking for a Dashlogic for Heads Up display of critical engine information!

 

This thread got awesome quickly

 

Just blows my mind that someone expected it to be a

 

a....

 

a mobile

 

WTF, won't let me post more than a few words

 

I'm going with mobile dyno

 

Are you telling me that I don't really have 975 HP? I'm selling mine......

 

Yes, for some reason it kept deleting my post or something.

Mobile dyno. If it really was a plug in mobile dyno, they would be $10k and dynojet/etc would be out of business.

 

Lol. Wow boys! Those are some tall horses your on!! All the geniuses are chimming in but not one can give help on anything. AFR are what they are and boost, hp and tq aren't the reasons I'm selling ahats. The OBD2 port is taken with a window valet which I use every time I drive it, and after buying 3 splitters to use both units simultaneously which none have worked...I chose to keep what I use most. This was to keep from adding a gauge pod which I hate so I asked for help. Using the installer tool obviously helped zero because it didn't clarify what to change, about as well as asking here. I was expecting a sure.. Go to PID XYZ AND CHANGE TO ". ". And that will set it up for your car. You got nothing. All the people I've helped or sent parts to over the years and I get flak. Try being helpful next time.. To someone else. I have things to do so you boys have fun playing with your tool. Mods do what you do por favor. Gracias

 

I guess im confused why you're hung up on the most worthless feature "dyno numbers" from a OBDII dongle.

The configuration/setup of the Dashlogic is incredibly easy and once you take 15-20min to set it up once you're good to go.

I use it to monitor IAT/Knock/Advance/Boost it's the one thing people go WOW when they see and say its a really nice feature no ugly gauge pods etc.

 

Those #'s aren't it at all. I don't know if ANY perimeters are correct because I haven't set 1 for MY car yet and am unsure on how exactly to accomplish that task. I assumed that every reading would be wrong until this is done and me opening up a PID, 1 or all and seeing the drop down of all the options and not sure what to select or put in the blanks...and getting" just use the tool from everyone here and PE." That doesn't work for me. I wanted an easy, 08 Blown LS3 with headers, catted gets these adjustments here to get the most accurate readings. I'm not a tuner. I build car's, motorcycles and homes in my spare time. Mapping software to fit my car so I can see accurate readings isn't one so that's why I asked for help.

 

I apologize if you took some of our responses as insult, but I honestly thought it was pretty funny myself when you mentioned the "horsepower" PID and how the unit was worthless because it wasn't accurate. That's how it came off anyway.

Most of use here would throw that Window Valet in the trash before giving up our DashLogics. It can provide so much useful and important data that it isn't even funny. And the unit isn't "inaccurate" at all. It's simply pulling data from the ECU. Any regular OBD2 parameter you want to see should be spot-on without doing anything other than plugging the unit in. Again, being able to easily monitor things like knock retard, boost, or IATs is priceless.

The reason the "horsepower" PID likely isn't accurate is twofold. For starters, it's reporting calculated crank/engine power -- not rear wheel power. If you're making 600 RWHP through an automatic, the engine probably is making 700+ at the crank. The next reason for inaccuracy would be that the reported torque (direct from the engine computer/ECU) is not accurate. This is because in tuning your 2008 ECU for larger injectors, etc. , the actual engine torque and calculated engine torque no longer match. A good tuner can make this accurate in many cases, but most don't take the time.

If you want help making the unit work properly, let us know. But the HP PID isn't the fault of the DashLogic. Use it for something that's actually useful, and it's a great tool.

 

There is no programming or special stuff to use 99% of the features. It is a simple drop down menu. Registering and posting on this forum is harder than setting up a dashlogic, and even without touching it, just plugging it in it shows you almost anything you could want without ever adjusting a single thing.

 

As I tried to explain. I just figured if those were off which were the only ones I knew to be off due to it being on a dyno, then everything would be off. That's it! Those were my only readings I had as static to judge by...That's it. One reading off= all off.
I wanted boost,IAT,Knock,AFR, Temps all which it does while making sure they were actual not estimate's off a different car. So making sure it was setup for what I'm running at the moment. Does that make my intentions clear enough? Anyway, looks like I might get another crack at it. The guy buying it backed out and gave him a break because we work together so no loss.

 

RWHP/Tq. is just a rough estimate based the data it has to work with. There is no sensor that actually measures hp/tq on the car, so all it can do is try to estimate it. It probably works fairly well on stock cars, but modded ones are a crap shoot depending on what the tuner did, like StreetK mentioned.

For boost, IAT, knock you have a MAP sensor, IAT sensor and knock sensors.. so you'll get real & accurate data for those.

 

Again.... the horsepower and torque PIDs are estimations of what the engine is making -- and I'm pretty sure it's estimating what it makes AT THE CRANK. As an example, a stock 638 hp ZR1 (SAE certified) makes about 550 RWHP on a chassis dyno. So your ~600 RWHP through an automatic trans is going to be more than that. I think some of your confusion was that you were comparing two different power measurements.

If the delivered torque numbers the ECU is reporting are truly accurate, then I'd bet the DashLogic's horsepower estimate would be very close. The problem (as I mentioned earlier) is that on modified cars those values are often no longer accurate. Inaccurate info in = inaccurate info out. There are torque coefficient tables that can be changed (by the tuner) to make this more accurate on a modified car, but that's an awful lot of work just to see a pretty worthless PID on your DashLogic.

 

I agree completely and that was my point. I did buy a 3 bar map sensor.



QUOTE=Streetk14;1590621865]Again.... the horsepower and torque PIDs are estimations of what the engine is making -- and I'm pretty sure it's estimating what it makes AT THE CRANK. As an example, a stock 638 hp ZR1 (SAE certified) makes about 550 RWHP on a chassis dyno. So your ~600 RWHP through an automatic trans is going to be more than that. I think some of your confusion was that you were comparing two different power measurements.

If the delivered torque numbers the ECU is reporting are truly accurate, then I'd bet the DashLogic's horsepower estimate would be very close. The problem (as I mentioned earlier) is that on modified cars those values are often no longer accurate. Inaccurate info in = inaccurate info out. There are torque coefficient tables that can be changed (by the tuner) to make this more accurate on a modified car, but that's an awful lot of work just to see a pretty worthless PID on your DashLogic.[/QUOTE]