How does one use DashLogic?
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,341
From: Gilbert AZ
Sounds like your having issues with your tune, not the dashlogic. Dashlogic reports exactly what the ECU is seeing. If ECU is being reported 3psi, then it is going to show that. If your tuner didn't swap in a 2 or 3 bar map sensor, and adjust for it in the tune, you will not have accurate boost readings.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
I'm not sure if I'm following you completely. You originally mentioned that the DashLogic shows ~750 hp on the display. 600 RWHP through an automatic probably isn't all that far off from that. That was one of my points, but maybe I misunderstood you.
On top of that, You're trying to use chassis dyno numbers to validate crank horsepower. That just doesn't work. That's a whole 'nother discussion, but it isn't always going to be a fixed % lost through the drivetrain. Chassis dynos are great for measuring before and after power after modifications, but not great at trying to measure and back calculate to get your crank HP.
The more important point (my second paragraph in my last post) was that even if the DashLogic is doing it's calculations properly, the data it's getting from the engine control module can and will skew the numbers you see. If you feed the DashLogic incorrect data, it will spit out incorrect data. Pretty simple.
As for the boost reading 3 psi..... you either don't have a proper MAP sensor that can actually read boost, or aren't using the correct PID in the DashLogic. Most of us LS3 guys buy a ZR1 MAP sensor (GM part # 12592525). You'll need this to actually read any boost over a few psi. The stock MAP sensor isn't designed to do so.
On top of that, You're trying to use chassis dyno numbers to validate crank horsepower. That just doesn't work. That's a whole 'nother discussion, but it isn't always going to be a fixed % lost through the drivetrain. Chassis dynos are great for measuring before and after power after modifications, but not great at trying to measure and back calculate to get your crank HP.
The more important point (my second paragraph in my last post) was that even if the DashLogic is doing it's calculations properly, the data it's getting from the engine control module can and will skew the numbers you see. If you feed the DashLogic incorrect data, it will spit out incorrect data. Pretty simple.
As for the boost reading 3 psi..... you either don't have a proper MAP sensor that can actually read boost, or aren't using the correct PID in the DashLogic. Most of us LS3 guys buy a ZR1 MAP sensor (GM part # 12592525). You'll need this to actually read any boost over a few psi. The stock MAP sensor isn't designed to do so.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 260
Likes: 4
From: TX
Map swapped
So now that I have the 3 bar map sensor listed above, It needs re-tuned to read correctly? It reads -11 at idle now after swap. What PID do I add to boost?
Sounds like your having issues with your tune, not the dashlogic. Dashlogic reports exactly what the ECU is seeing. If ECU is being reported 3psi, then it is going to show that. If your tuner didn't swap in a 2 or 3 bar map sensor, and adjust for it in the tune, you will not have accurate boost readings.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Wait. Did you literally just plug this sensor in with no other changes to the tune?
If so, then yes, there are a few MAP sensor settings that need to be changed in the tune
Beyond that, no one can say what needs to be done without seeing the tune and some logs
The same PID will show vacuum and boost, so it sounds like you already found the right one. I don't have my dash logic with me to be able to say which PID it is, but I can look it up when I get home if you don't find it. One of the pages that comes on DL from the factory has boost/vacuum already setup
If so, then yes, there are a few MAP sensor settings that need to be changed in the tune
Beyond that, no one can say what needs to be done without seeing the tune and some logs
The same PID will show vacuum and boost, so it sounds like you already found the right one. I don't have my dash logic with me to be able to say which PID it is, but I can look it up when I get home if you don't find it. One of the pages that comes on DL from the factory has boost/vacuum already setup
Racer
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 260
Likes: 4
From: TX
Thanks
I will check it out on my next few days off and see if I can get it adjusted. Right now it still seems it would take a tuner a while to adjust all the settings in this to get it working right. If anyone knows of one near Houston near the North side familiar with this box, let me know. 
Wait. Did you literally just plug this sensor in with no other changes to the tune?
If so, then yes, there are a few MAP sensor settings that need to be changed in the tune
Beyond that, no one can say what needs to be done without seeing the tune and some logs
The same PID will show vacuum and boost, so it sounds like you already found the right one. I don't have my dash logic with me to be able to say which PID it is, but I can look it up when I get home if you don't find it. One of the pages that comes on DL from the factory has boost/vacuum already setup
If so, then yes, there are a few MAP sensor settings that need to be changed in the tune
Beyond that, no one can say what needs to be done without seeing the tune and some logs
The same PID will show vacuum and boost, so it sounds like you already found the right one. I don't have my dash logic with me to be able to say which PID it is, but I can look it up when I get home if you don't find it. One of the pages that comes on DL from the factory has boost/vacuum already setup
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Making the new MAP sensor read correctly is literally 3 fields that you just type new numbers into. Any tuner can do it in < 5 minutes. Hopefully whoever tuned it for you last time would be willing to update those two values without charging you much since it's so simple.
As far as what it would need beyond that.. no way to say without seeing tune/logs. Hopefully not much!
As far as what it would need beyond that.. no way to say without seeing tune/logs. Hopefully not much!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 93
From: Charlotte N.C.
Will an EBoost 2 be able to drive Dashlogic? I have a Nexus boost gauge on my pod, and an EBoost controller on my console, and an Alky Contol meth pump with a MAP. Seems like one of them should be able to drive the unit without setting up another MAP sensor.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 93
From: Charlotte N.C.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 93
From: Charlotte N.C.
Not sure they were out when LPE built my car in '07. My Eboost , Aky kit. or boost gauge must have the resolution required though. Just need to figure out which one I can tap into for the 0-5v signal. THink the Eboost may have an output wire for driving an external appliance.
Last edited by TTZ06VETTE; Oct 28, 2015 at 10:51 AM.