When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So my car is in the hands of dr pill right now.. But we are having issues with belt slippage still. Started with a 3.33 pulley and a green belt, which slipped really bad.. I am on a 3.6 pulley and a standard black v belt. and still starting to slip at 6k. I cant really afford a flip drive right now. is there any other options i can do ? Phil wants me to try and find a 3.47 pulley with teeth to help grab. like the A&A ones but they are 3.25 inch
something else going on here imo. My car used to slip a normal 8 rib at 760whp a bit until I tore it all apart and laser aligned everything with properly calibrated laser tool. Now made 900whp with no flip drive on 8 rib gates belt. if your pulleys are not aligned properly and you bandait it with a notched pulley like that you will nuke your belts.
that wavy boost line looks like belt slip and not boost leak to me.
something else going on here imo. My car used to slip a normal 8 rib at 760whp a bit until I tore it all apart and laser aligned everything with properly calibrated laser tool. Now made 900whp with no flip drive on 8 rib gates belt. if your pulleys are not aligned properly and you bandait it with a notched pulley like that you will nuke your belts.
that wavy boost line looks like belt slip and not boost leak to me.
what is the proper size belt for a 3.47 - with a 10" crank pulley? still a 922 or a 915
when i was looking at the auto tension er its looked pretty dam close to the crank pulley..
They usually are. The newest A&A bracket design is the best IMO but you should still be able to run a 3.47/8" combo on an 8 rib with no slip if the tensioners are working properly and the belt is aligned.
Yes, but that is not needed for you setup. You have a different problem. Throwing special pulleys, etc doesn't fix your issue. It may mask it, but either way you have an issue that should be fixed.
There is a bunch of different coating/processes now. CPR has grip-tec pullies like that. They work good, but no reason it should be needed on a 3.5"+ pulley.
when i was looking at the auto tension er its looked pretty dam close to the crank pulley..
u still got a link ill check it out.. worst case i can swap belts til i get a good one lol - ima grab a 3.47 pulley anyways
Get under the car and see how much room it has. Put a wrench on it and open it up. If it is very close to the crank pulley that is the problem. You are running out of autotensioner.
There is a bunch of different coating/processes now. CPR has grip-tec pullies like that. They work good, but no reason it should be needed on a 3.5"+ pulley.
This.
I use the Griptech pulleys a lot on PD blower applications run 2.5" or smaller but never needed one for a centri.
From: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Not sure if this is our kit or not, but if it is you do not need any special coasted pulleys or a direct drive for the power you're making. Make sure the tensioner is fully opened.
Not sure if this is our kit or not, but if it is you do not need any special coasted pulleys or a direct drive for the power you're making. Make sure the tensioner is fully opened.
fully open would be towards passenger side right? and if it is to close to the crank does that mean too small of a belt?
Dyno tune issues
