J. Dub

Thank you for the reply. I am looking at purchasing a 800whp D1SC procharged vehicle off a vette owner and wanted to make sure I am preparing to know what I'm getting myself into.
He doesn't DD the vehicle. And I plan on doing so. Thanks again for the reply.

J. Dub

A close friend of mine with a boosted C5 told me to just remove the hood on hot summer days when there is traffic. I guess, after reading this thread, he's not kidding.

J. Dub

@Unreal, Did you pull the rubber strip between the firewall and the hood? I figured it would not hurt.

What about removing the fender vents or hood liner?

Unreal

I guess you haven't seen my car.

Yes, all that stuff is done.

Removing hood doesn't really help. I've ran without a hood, and it is more of an issue of airflow at idle/low speeds. Not enough room and too many things stacked.

Air to water could work. That would actually be a decent option to do an air/water setup down behind fog light then a smaller thin HE up front.

I would be very very careful buying a modded FI vette as a DD. While my car overall has been great, and I put a ton of miles on it, I would at least have a cheap backup beater car.

neverstop

I would not DD a 800whp car without a good backup option. that is nearing 1k hp at the flywheel which is pretty intense and unlikely to be reliable like a stock honda or something, especially if you didn't built it and you have zero idea how well or badly things were done on it.

silvrhand

did you do the secondary oil cooler yet with the active fan?

mourat

Is this just z06 problem since it's not a bottom feeder? Not sure how z06 looks under there, might have to go with a narrow body in the front mod lol! Anyway, just wondering if you had a bottom feeder like the base c6, would the thicker intercooler really matter?

Unreal

No difference between base and z06.

Bottom feed/etc wouldn't matter. If it is a solid chunk of metal, and no where for air to go, it doesn't matter if air comes from front or bottom.

schpenxel

Good info

Is it much work to swap back to ECS one for the summer?

Unreal

Yes and no.

If I didn't sell it, it would be a 5 minute swap. Undo couplers, 2 bolts slide new one out, old one in, but I sold it, so it is kind of pain at this point.

No oil cooler, took it off, so that is an option, but with how bad it is currently, I can't see that fixing it, and then the annoying part of taking that off for winter, and the cost of that. Already $5k+ into cooling stuff, so another $600-800 on oil cooler doesn't exactly make me scream hooray.

Just goes to show how important a good gap between condenser and fmic is, and how the thickness of what you have to suck through too.

Car runs rock solid 205ish on highway as long as it has speed, and does take a good 30+ to get into the 235+ range, so it is drivable, just can't get stuck in traffic anymore. Been driving it to work every day, and barely see over 205 unless I get stuck in traffic in afternoon. I make it home before getting too hot.


Morning commute when it is cooler out never goes over 182. Hovers right at 178-182.

schpenxel

Yeah I don't think oil cooler is the answer personally. I'd spend the money on buying back the parts to swap intercooler for a few months instead

At least it's drivable though, better than a lot of 1000+rwhp vettes out there

TTZ06VETTE

Totally agree with this. At 850/850wheel I feel I am on the edge...and I get the benefit of having turbos under the block for less heat. Probably took 5 years of time to get it right between going from a single big intercooler to 2 smaller units with a space between for airflow to the radiator. Plus tuning...summer tune and winter tune for timing and P/E tweaks, meth, etc. I now would consider the car daily driveable with no Kr during pulls or heating issues in NC summer heat but I still get nervous driving it hard without my HP Tuner scan running in the seat next to me. By the time you get it all figured out they start releasing 800HP production vehicles

Unreal

Or just put a bypass pipe on it for hot months.

Like I said, I don't race or beat on it 4k+ when it is 100+ out. So removing the fmic for June/July/August actually sounds tempting. With e54 and meth, probably still run great if needed.

realcanuk

I don't daily drive my car but I am pretty sure I could without issues. I don't think 800 or 1000 makes any difference if you aren't beating on it. Drove it quite a bit last summer and it never let me down in any way.

Unreal

Agreed with Jody.

I could put a 600rwhp pulley on, it doesn't change the heat at idle.

silvrhand

did you end up cutting out the bumper support?

Unreal

Thats been done for years

chuntington101

Really sorry to hear about the heat issues! Do you still have your washer bottle? Just thinking you could as the heating issue is only in traffic you could maybe spray the rad with water to help cool in traffic. Wouldn't cost a lot to rig up and might get you by.

If you did look at air to water there have been a few guys that have fit Garrett 1000bhp corse behind the fog lights. There might even be enough room for 2 cores stacked. Or you could run 2 of the Garrett 750bhp cores which are a little smaller. You could even use the space behind the other fog light for an oil cooler or secondary HE.

Not a cheap option but what about fitting intercooler a behind the fog lights? On the C5 APS were able to fit 10x10x4 cores in there. If you could fit 6 inch thick cores there then that should offer a decent amount of cooling and not restric flow. Not a cheap option though!...

Just some ideas.

Ls240sx

A couple things that I have delt with on my own car -

When we first built my kit we had everything stacked at an angle like that. At speed it would be ok but stopped it would start climbing with the ac on.

Then I went I stood everything more straight up. That helped but didnt make it perfect.

Then added This fan setup - https://derale.com/products/electric...-gasket-detail

Problems solved.

My stack was like this -

3" intercooler core - 1" oil cooler - ac condensor - 3.5" thick radiator.

I have also run with and without an oil cooler. One thing I found was that as soon as my oil temps started climbing.. the coolant temps weren't far behind. I would absolutely run an oil cooler on these cars. whether its laying down in your grill opening or behind a fog light. You should def have one in my opinion.

Another thing ive noticed which no one ever talks about is your idle timing. IF you are dropping into low timing areas while idling, it will run the temps up.

To the guy talking about running no hood. My car actually cools better with my vented hood on.

Unreal

Yah, dealt with the timing thing in the past. That definitely makes a huge difference.

Really not trying to solve anything, or do anything different. Like I said, if I do anything, it will be bypass the FMIC for summer. Just giving an update that last 2 years car ran perfectly cool, zero issues in 120+ weather with stock ECS fmic. Swap to 4.5" thick large core, and now it does not. So little things can make a big difference.

When it is 100+ I have too many other cars that drive nicer, cooler ac, and zero issues with hot to be dumping more and more into the vette just to drive during peak summer.

To be clear, it has got over 235, but it was only 104 yesterday. Judging by past performance once it hits 110+ I'll be in a bad shape. For most of the country, they will never see weather bad enough.