Afr question...
05-03-2018, 02:03 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
500 miles in stop/go traffic is very different than 500 miles mostly major roads though.
Hence a poor target
5 miles stuck in traffic could see more engagement/disengagement actions from the clutch than the main road 500 miles.
And ultimately it is that light slippage they want to see for any surfaces to bed into each other.
If the clutch is made correctly though, all surfaces will already be true and flat, so there should be almost no bed in time required.
05-03-2018, 02:12 PM
#22
Safety Car
500 miles in stop/go traffic is very different than 500 miles mostly major roads though.
Hence a poor target
5 miles stuck in traffic could see more engagement/disengagement actions from the clutch than the main road 500 miles.
And ultimately it is that light slippage they want to see for any surfaces to bed into each other.
If the clutch is made correctly though, all surfaces will already be true and flat, so there should be almost no bed in time required.
Hence a poor target
5 miles stuck in traffic could see more engagement/disengagement actions from the clutch than the main road 500 miles.
And ultimately it is that light slippage they want to see for any surfaces to bed into each other.
If the clutch is made correctly though, all surfaces will already be true and flat, so there should be almost no bed in time required.
All of the manufacturers recommendations say the same thing re: stop/go driving.
There is no harm in following their recommendations. But if you don't, and you have a problem, they'll tell you it's your fault for not breaking in the clutch properly. Granted, I did have a clutch chew up my transmission in <200 miles with NO obvious side affects. I won't go 500 miles again without testing for dragging and making sure the shifter goes into gear cleanly at high RPM.
This school of thought is the same for brakes and fresh engines. Some say let 'er eat and they never have problems. Some say not to. It's your choice to error on the side of caution or not.
05-03-2018, 02:49 PM
#23
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
All of the manufacturers recommendations say the same thing re: stop/go driving.
There is no harm in following their recommendations. But if you don't, and you have a problem, they'll tell you it's your fault for not breaking in the clutch properly. Granted, I did have a clutch chew up my transmission in <200 miles with NO obvious side affects. I won't go 500 miles again without testing for dragging and making sure the shifter goes into gear cleanly at high RPM.
This school of thought is the same for brakes and fresh engines. Some say let 'er eat and they never have problems. Some say not to. It's your choice to error on the side of caution or not.
There is no harm in following their recommendations. But if you don't, and you have a problem, they'll tell you it's your fault for not breaking in the clutch properly. Granted, I did have a clutch chew up my transmission in <200 miles with NO obvious side affects. I won't go 500 miles again without testing for dragging and making sure the shifter goes into gear cleanly at high RPM.
This school of thought is the same for brakes and fresh engines. Some say let 'er eat and they never have problems. Some say not to. It's your choice to error on the side of caution or not.
05-05-2018, 09:24 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Im about to tune my car....thinking of doing wideband and fuel press on A pillar pod ....is an analog fuel pressure output needed for HP tuner (remote tune) or do you just go by wideband?
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; 05-05-2018 at 10:28 PM.
05-06-2018, 12:22 AM
#25
Safety Car
Follow Mantic dual disc 500 mile break in period procedure, I did and my Mantic 9000 continues to be flawless 15,000 miles later!
Last edited by Mike's LS3; 05-06-2018 at 12:29 AM.
05-06-2018, 12:04 PM
#27
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
05-07-2018, 11:27 AM
#28
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St. Jude Donor '15
Most just go by wideband but more data isn't going to hurt. You'd have to add a 0-5V pressure sensor to wire into HPTuners for it to be able to read that. These cars don't have any sort of fuel pressure sensor from the factory so HPT can't read it unless you add one
05-07-2018, 08:23 PM
#29
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Im using the sensor you told me about from casper electonics. Hooks to schrader valve on rail...going to holley fuel rails,so not sure how im going to make it work? Running a dual walbro 450's intank setup....so shouldn't have any fuel/pressure issues i hope.
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; 05-07-2018 at 11:13 PM.
05-14-2018, 10:32 AM
#30
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
**UPDATE** I found a coupler loose on the charge tube (not sure how that got overlooked).....wtf! Would this cause the AFR to read rich?
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; 05-14-2018 at 10:33 AM.
05-14-2018, 11:20 AM
#31
Safety Car
05-14-2018, 12:38 PM
#32
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
05-14-2018, 02:10 PM
#33
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St. Jude Donor '15
Wideband will "read" correctly regardless, wideband doesn't care about an air leak. That's not to say it isn't actually lean or rich, just that the wideband will still be reporting whatever it actually is
I say fix the leak and try it. If the entire VE table was perfect everywhere then I don't know that it would make any difference, but it's possible you're hitting spots in the table that the tuner didn't hit when tuning it so you're getting richer or whatever than it should be
Fix it and see what happens..
I say fix the leak and try it. If the entire VE table was perfect everywhere then I don't know that it would make any difference, but it's possible you're hitting spots in the table that the tuner didn't hit when tuning it so you're getting richer or whatever than it should be
Fix it and see what happens..
Last edited by schpenxel; 05-14-2018 at 02:11 PM.
05-14-2018, 04:01 PM
#34
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Wideband will "read" correctly regardless, wideband doesn't care about an air leak. That's not to say it isn't actually lean or rich, just that the wideband will still be reporting whatever it actually is
I say fix the leak and try it. If the entire VE table was perfect everywhere then I don't know that it would make any difference, but it's possible you're hitting spots in the table that the tuner didn't hit when tuning it so you're getting richer or whatever than it should be
Fix it and see what happens..
I say fix the leak and try it. If the entire VE table was perfect everywhere then I don't know that it would make any difference, but it's possible you're hitting spots in the table that the tuner didn't hit when tuning it so you're getting richer or whatever than it should be
Fix it and see what happens..
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; 05-14-2018 at 04:02 PM.
05-14-2018, 04:07 PM
#35
Safety Car
05-14-2018, 06:06 PM
#36
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St. Jude Donor '15
I understand the wideband reading what it see"s....but wasn't sure being speed density tuned if the computer is just adding "tuned" amount of fuel and can't tell if there is equal air parts to work with it...as my MAF is tuned out (im very vague on speed density tuning).
05-14-2018, 07:51 PM
#37
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Yeah,I put it back together and tried it....better;but still off. If I have to re-tune it....i may as well pulley down and go with dual meth nozzles as I've been putting it off for awhile now. Im running a single M15 on (5 on controller).....would it be better to just turn this up vs. Run 2 M10"s? Going to be running a 3.4' pulley
05-14-2018, 07:53 PM
#38
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St. Jude Donor '15
I'd rather use a smaller nozzle and turn the controller way up than the other way around personally. Mine's as high as it will go but I think I'm just running an M10 nozzle now? Not sure, but def isn't more than 1 M15
05-14-2018, 07:58 PM
#39
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
You are running the 3.4" pulley on a T-trim as well correct?
05-14-2018, 08:01 PM
#40
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St. Jude Donor '15
3.25, ECS 1500, whatever that is. Same as a T trim I think
