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There are multiple schools of thought on it. The clutch manufacturers always want to you to break it in 500 miles, so that's what I've always done.
500 miles in stop/go traffic is very different than 500 miles mostly major roads though.
Hence a poor target
5 miles stuck in traffic could see more engagement/disengagement actions from the clutch than the main road 500 miles.
And ultimately it is that light slippage they want to see for any surfaces to bed into each other.
If the clutch is made correctly though, all surfaces will already be true and flat, so there should be almost no bed in time required.
500 miles in stop/go traffic is very different than 500 miles mostly major roads though.
Hence a poor target
5 miles stuck in traffic could see more engagement/disengagement actions from the clutch than the main road 500 miles.
And ultimately it is that light slippage they want to see for any surfaces to bed into each other.
If the clutch is made correctly though, all surfaces will already be true and flat, so there should be almost no bed in time required.
All of the manufacturers recommendations say the same thing re: stop/go driving.
There is no harm in following their recommendations. But if you don't, and you have a problem, they'll tell you it's your fault for not breaking in the clutch properly. Granted, I did have a clutch chew up my transmission in <200 miles with NO obvious side affects. I won't go 500 miles again without testing for dragging and making sure the shifter goes into gear cleanly at high RPM.
This school of thought is the same for brakes and fresh engines. Some say let 'er eat and they never have problems. Some say not to. It's your choice to error on the side of caution or not.
All of the manufacturers recommendations say the same thing re: stop/go driving.
There is no harm in following their recommendations. But if you don't, and you have a problem, they'll tell you it's your fault for not breaking in the clutch properly. Granted, I did have a clutch chew up my transmission in <200 miles with NO obvious side affects. I won't go 500 miles again without testing for dragging and making sure the shifter goes into gear cleanly at high RPM.
This school of thought is the same for brakes and fresh engines. Some say let 'er eat and they never have problems. Some say not to. It's your choice to error on the side of caution or not.
I'm about 200 miles in with most of it being around town/traffic....Im feeling it's pretty close at this point. Mantic twin/tick master/mgw shifter= butter smooth shifts
I'm about 200 miles in with most of it being around town/traffic....Im feeling it's pretty close at this point. Mantic twin/tick master/mgw shifter= butter smooth shifts
Im about to tune my car....thinking of doing wideband and fuel press on A pillar pod ....is an analog fuel pressure output needed for HP tuner (remote tune) or do you just go by wideband?
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; May 5, 2018 at 10:28 PM.
Im about to tune my car....thinking of doing wideband and fuel press on A pillar pod ....is an analog fuel pressure output needed for HP tuner (remote tune) or do you just go by wideband?
Most just go by wideband but more data isn't going to hurt. You'd have to add a 0-5V pressure sensor to wire into HPTuners for it to be able to read that. These cars don't have any sort of fuel pressure sensor from the factory so HPT can't read it unless you add one
Most just go by wideband but more data isn't going to hurt. You'd have to add a 0-5V pressure sensor to wire into HPTuners for it to be able to read that. These cars don't have any sort of fuel pressure sensor from the factory so HPT can't read it unless you add one
Im using the sensor you told me about from casper electonics. Hooks to schrader valve on rail...going to holley fuel rails,so not sure how im going to make it work? Running a dual walbro 450's intank setup....so shouldn't have any fuel/pressure issues i hope.
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; May 7, 2018 at 11:13 PM.
Wideband will "read" correctly regardless, wideband doesn't care about an air leak. That's not to say it isn't actually lean or rich, just that the wideband will still be reporting whatever it actually is
I say fix the leak and try it. If the entire VE table was perfect everywhere then I don't know that it would make any difference, but it's possible you're hitting spots in the table that the tuner didn't hit when tuning it so you're getting richer or whatever than it should be
Fix it and see what happens..
Last edited by schpenxel; May 14, 2018 at 02:11 PM.
Wideband will "read" correctly regardless, wideband doesn't care about an air leak. That's not to say it isn't actually lean or rich, just that the wideband will still be reporting whatever it actually is
I say fix the leak and try it. If the entire VE table was perfect everywhere then I don't know that it would make any difference, but it's possible you're hitting spots in the table that the tuner didn't hit when tuning it so you're getting richer or whatever than it should be
Fix it and see what happens..
I understand the wideband reading what it see"s....but wasn't sure being speed density tuned if the computer is just adding "tuned" amount of fuel and can't tell if there is equal air parts to work with it...as my MAF is tuned out (im very vague on speed density tuning).
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; May 14, 2018 at 04:02 PM.
I understand the wideband reading what it see"s....but wasn't sure being speed density tuned if the computer is just adding "tuned" amount of fuel and can't tell if there is equal air parts to work with it...as my MAF is tuned out (im very vague on speed density tuning).
Less air would mean less boost which, should, mean less fuel (different spot in VE table). In reality, it may or it may not actually happen like that, depending on how it was tuned
Less air would mean less boost which, should, mean less fuel (different spot in VE table). In reality, it may or it may not actually happen like that, depending on how it was tuned
Yeah,I put it back together and tried it....better;but still off. If I have to re-tune it....i may as well pulley down and go with dual meth nozzles as I've been putting it off for awhile now. Im running a single M15 on (5 on controller).....would it be better to just turn this up vs. Run 2 M10"s? Going to be running a 3.4' pulley
I'd rather use a smaller nozzle and turn the controller way up than the other way around personally. Mine's as high as it will go but I think I'm just running an M10 nozzle now? Not sure, but def isn't more than 1 M15
I'd rather use a smaller nozzle and turn the controller way up than the other way around personally. Mine's as high as it will go but I think I'm just running an M10 nozzle now? Not sure, but def isn't more than 1 M15
You are running the 3.4" pulley on a T-trim as well correct?