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New Build - YSI to Twin 72's

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Old 07-06-2021, 02:05 PM
  #21  
Creamo3
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Originally Posted by skydaman
Saw you reference the 28x10.5W's, that's what I run. They certainly fill the wheel well up better than the regular 28x10's I had before.

Below is an older pic when I had the exhaust turned down thru mufflers. I have since cleaned up the engine bay a bit and made up pipes so they exit through the sides of the cowl hood.

Looks good! Is it a hot air setup running on alcohol or an A2W upstream? I want to give the W's a try, but a lot of the Banger class races limit me to 28 x 10.5 non-W. My buddy Dan that holds the C6 SBE 6L80 record runs the W's and said they helped.
Old 07-06-2021, 02:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Creamo3
Looks good! Is it a hot air setup running on alcohol or an A2W upstream? I want to give the W's a try, but a lot of the Banger class races limit me to 28 x 10.5 non-W. My buddy Dan that holds the C6 SBE 6L80 record runs the W's and said they helped.
It was non intercooled on E50 which was plenty fast for a street car with no safety equipment. I since added a cage and a large air to water intercooler, now my IAT's drop at speed vs rapidly rising

True a lot of classes don't like the W's, might be worth having two sets.
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Old 07-06-2021, 03:33 PM
  #23  
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dont the mt 275/60/15 work just as well as the 28w?
Old 07-06-2021, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jenavet
dont the mt 275/60/15 work just as well as the 28w?
Depends... power level, auto or manual, street or track, suspension setup, lots of variables.
Old 07-06-2021, 11:35 PM
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Looks awesome, sub'd!
Old 07-07-2021, 10:21 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jenavet
dont the mt 275/60/15 work just as well as the 28w?
The 275/60 is a radial and the others are bias ply. On a stick car the bias ply helps absorb a lot of the drivetrain shock when you're launching and can save you from breaking. I prefer the radial if the prep is good as it's more stable at high speed and still wrinkles a fair bit to reduce drivetrain shock. With the long-style aka slipper clutch a lot of the drivetrain shock is taken up by the clutch "slipping".
Old 07-07-2021, 10:58 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Creamo3
The 275/60 is a radial and the others are bias ply. On a stick car the bias ply helps absorb a lot of the drivetrain shock when you're launching and can save you from breaking. I prefer the radial if the prep is good as it's more stable at high speed and still wrinkles a fair bit to reduce drivetrain shock. With the long-style aka slipper clutch a lot of the drivetrain shock is taken up by the clutch "slipping".
got ya!! im running a 2 speed powerglide so i will try the radial...im pretty shocked guys would want to build 1000 plus rwhp and run a clutch...it sounds way to challenging lol
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Old 07-07-2021, 01:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jenavet
got ya!! im running a 2 speed powerglide so i will try the radial...im pretty shocked guys would want to build 1000 plus rwhp and run a clutch...it sounds way to challenging lol
Radial jams with a glide for sure. Manual is fun, but usually results in more broken parts.
Old 10-01-2021, 05:15 PM
  #29  
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I've been slacking with the updates, but we're just about ready to fire her up and let her eat! I have a Hat Race on 10/8 so I'll finally get some seat time after a year of it being down. On to the pictures...









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Old 10-01-2021, 05:32 PM
  #30  
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Hell ya looks good!
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Old 10-01-2021, 10:21 PM
  #31  
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Nice!
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Old 10-03-2021, 03:34 AM
  #32  
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Damn, how did I miss this. Badass build.

What alternator bracket is that?
What manifolds are those?
Old 10-03-2021, 11:05 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
Damn, how did I miss this. Badass build.

What alternator bracket is that?
What manifolds are those?
Thanks man! It's a Motion bracket, but he added a turnbuckle to it as well and anchored it to the water manifold since it was flexing. You can kind of see it in the last picture I posted.
The manifolds are from eBay and he then back purge welds for additional strength at the joints. Here's a better pic of how he cut it to make it work.



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Old 10-04-2021, 10:27 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Creamo3
Thanks man! It's a Motion bracket, but he added a turnbuckle to it as well and anchored it to the water manifold since it was flexing. You can kind of see it in the last picture I posted.
The manifolds are from eBay and he then back purge welds for additional strength at the joints. Here's a better pic of how he cut it to make it work.
Used those manifolds on many builds, they work nice and can't beat them for the price. Hopefully it does well when you take it out!
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Old 10-04-2021, 01:52 PM
  #35  
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Nice build!
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Old 10-07-2021, 06:41 PM
  #36  
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Few more pics... everything is just about buttoned up. All that remains are a few brake fittings for the staging brake, mounting the G-meter, and then firing it up. There seems to be an issue with the harness that I had made to piggyback the Holley that they're working thru now. Probably my fault for buying a 2008 harness for my 2007 car, which supposedly changed some things around and I'm also running a 2010 pcm to complicate things but I assumed everything was similar between years. I unfortunately won't be able to race tomorrow, but my brother is filling in for me in his TT CTSV, so we're hoping it's competitive in a tough class of cars.







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Old 10-07-2021, 08:20 PM
  #37  
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Looks gnarly.. Guess we know who is going to take that 100-150mph 1st place now, lol.
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Old 10-08-2021, 10:31 AM
  #38  
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That looks sick, good job!!
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Old 10-09-2021, 03:40 AM
  #39  
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im confused. the intercooler is behind the rad?

Last edited by romandian; 10-09-2021 at 03:41 AM.
Old 10-09-2021, 04:02 AM
  #40  
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What size rad are you using in this build? Looks almost stock size. Definitely won’t have any cooling issue!

the exhaust routing looks incredible! Any concerns around restrictions with the 180 degree turn?


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