Hey I had someone recommend me a custom
cam. It is 222/234 .600"/.600" 119 LSA +3

‘12 C6 GS A6 Stock Converter ECS 1500 LTH no cats
Does anyone have one similar I can hear and if so how do you like it??

99% street driven car

 

Just my opinion ...

With the 119* LSA, that cam would be more suited for a Positive Displacement (PD) supercharger.

The ECS supercharger for your car is a Centrifugal type, and would do better with a cam in the 115* +3 LSA range.

Other than that, I would think that the cam would work well.

Again, just my opinion,

 

I just noticed that you stated you have a stock converter ... if you want better street manners, you might opt for a little less duration when using the stock torque converter:

220*/230* ..600"/.600" .115* +3 LSA

 

I'd maybe look at Spinmonster's cam specs. It might be perfect for you. Lots of idle clips of it out there too.

 

looks
looked like he is head/cam only from what I’ve found

 

. And I appreciate the opinion

this was specd from a very well known person in the industry knowing it is centrifugal

I did tell him I wanted minimal chop so that may be why the 119?

 

It will work n/a or boosted.

 

That's very possible ... A 119* LSA will decrease the cam's overlap and give less chop, and work better with a stock converter (the OEM converter has a very low stall in the 1,600 rpm range).

BTW ... I replaced the stock converter with a 2,800 stall unit prior to installing a bigger cam in my PD supercharged LS3 ... I am still using a pretty mild cam:

220*/234*. .585"/.585". 118 LSA- -9* overlap

I kept the cam lift below .600" just to be easy on the valvetrain parts (and I don't spin the engine past 6,400 revs).

 

I’m assuming the larger lift is to keep the valves open longer to help let the S/C breath??

 

Actually the cam's duration is what is mainly responsible for how long the valves stay open.

 

what does the lift do

 

 

you could’ve just typed all that….

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-and-now.html


Here’s a post with some results with a blower. Do a search on blower cams vs NA cams. Richard Holdener has a couple good videos with dyno tests on YouTube. Are you looking for a completely smooth idle or just stock like mannerisms?

 

doesnt have to be completely smooth - just not a fan of the stage 3 brap brap brap idle

 

The biggest I would go would with a stock torque converter would be something like this from Cam Motion: https://cammotion.com/camshafts/cs-2...r-centrifugal/

It's very similar to what Turbo6TA recommended.

Just remember that with bigger (more duration) cams, driveability can suffer. Idle RPM a lot of times has to be increased and the car will want to push forward; you'd have to stand on the gas pedal to keep it from moving. A good tune is critical also.

And when in doubt, it is better to go with a smaller cam than what you think. You will still get 90% of the power gains but retain much more comfort and driveability and it will be less stress on the valve train.

The Cam Motion 212-228, 115 LSA, 0.553/0.553 lift cam is what I personally would go with. Still a significant increase over stock but would be much easier for daily driving. And you could still run stock GM valve springs. Would be hardly any more stress on the valve train components.

 

OP ...

Here is the specs on the stock LS3 cam that you can use as a comparison :

Dur: . 204° / 211°

Lift: . .551” / .525”

LSA: . 117°

ICL: . 120°

Overlap: . -26.5°

 

Looking at what I’m wanting, what do you guys recommend? The .600 lift is way too much? Needs more duration for the s/c I know.

 

The most important thing is getting a competent tuner, preferably with specific knowledge about the cam you select. Best deal is to find a good tuner and ask him what he recommends. Or get a cam from a competent company like BTR that’s popular and has been tuned countless times.
Whilst it sounds cool to have a “custom” grind, getting it dialed n so that the idle is decent enough for it to not surge or jerk with a stock converter will take more time, assuming you select the right specs (and the right tuner).
IMV, a cam with ~220* on the intake and ~230-235 on the exhaust with between 114-120* LSA will work. As far as lift goes, .585-.600” lift will work without causing too much stress in the valvetrain. A matching set of springs and a pushrod upgrade should be considered mandatory regardless of the specs you choose.
BTW: Don’t worry too much about specing the LSA based on whether the blower is centrifugal or positive displacement. What matters us overlap. The reason most cam grinders tighten up the LSA on centri-specific grinds is to increase the amount of overlap to enhance low-rpm scavenging, since centri blowers typically don’t make boost (and torque) as quickly as a PD blower. But I’d bet a good chunk that you’d never be able to tell the difference in power between a cam with 115* and 119*, with otherwise identical specs, although you will notice the latter idles better…
My 5 cents…

 

Is PatG good at recommending cam
profiles?