I don't think there are lots of prioritystart modules here, but certainly there are some, and they seem to work as advertised. Sounds like good insurance, with only minimal cost as the downside. One dealer actually paid for it.
Why didn't you just charge your baby back up real good?
That seems to be the easiest and quickest way to get up and running again. It seems that the dealers have little knowledge on this issue, and unless the battery is actually bad, there doesn't seem to be enough benefit to replace it at this point. It seems that really few DBS's are due to bad batteries. I would think that if you become unfortunate enough to have a series of DBS's, then you might request a new battery, especially with winter approaching.
As for me, I had DBS episodes in Nov, Dec and Jan, but none since, batteries still fine, and I've been following this DBS thing daily since then, to try and make heads or tails out of it. Nothing definite yet.

 

Marc,
I think you are large enough to just get 06 and don't worry about the dbs

 

DG:

Didn't want to wait for an 06, that's why I got the 05. By the way is there an 06 in your future???

 

I don't think that anyone knows for sure yet whether or not this DBS syndrome will afflict the '06's.
Of course with the elimination of the reverse on shut down requirement, we're hoping that DBS has been cured.

But, on the other hand, I'm almost hoping it's not cured, so we '05er's don't get abandoned like New Orleans roof-toppers!

 

Got the car back last night form the dealer. They put in a new battery. It's a Delco again but this one is called a Delco "Professional". It looks like a different style of battery, maybe a little larger. So far it's cranking 14 to 14.4 amps on the gauge. Even though a new battery was put in all my settings remained the same. Glad for that.

 

After 2500 miles and no DBS problems the dreaded DBS struck after a two day layoff. Returned to car and the key fob was dead. Tried second key fob and that was dead. Dealer advised how to enter vehicle without electronics and using key only. Car was in reverse on entry. Battery completely dead. Dealer arranged service pickup to house to charge battery and car return to garage. After weekend at garage the dealer advised the following WHEN ABOUT TO TURN OFF ENGINE :

1. Put car into reverse
2. Put on handbrake / emergency brake
3. THEN ONLY shut off engine.

One forum member had an interesting point about the car starting up by itself. Has anyone found that the navigation system after closeoff can still retain in memory what was supposed to be the last journey and when car is restarted the system will proceed to display on head up screen the route to be taken? Perhaps one of the techie forum members can answer whether there is any electronic linking with navigation system and DBS.

 

im getting my bad boy soon but why keep it in reverse when shutting off what happened to leaving a manual 6 in neutral...

 

and since I don't have time to read all 26 comments, I'll add my 2 cents worth: Make sure when you hit the off portion of the Start Switch, it doesn't go into the Accessory Mode and then you leave the car thinking its in the Off mode...that may run down the battery; just my theory at this point cause I don't know what else it could be either???
Good Luck
Also, I personally don't think that pulley relay #46 will affect anything-just my opinion.

 

I hooked up a charger the other day just to "top off" the battery since the car had been sitting for about 2 weeks and I noticed something. My 6 amp charger started off at about 8 amps and as the battery charged, it went down to about 2 amps. This is normal of course since a charged battery will draw less amps from the charger.

Now, with the needle at 2 amps I knew the battery was pretty much charged up. I opened the hood and noticed the needle jump from 2 to 4 amps. I figured it was just the underhood light burning so I lowered the hood and watched. The light went out but still 4 amps. After about 15 seconds it dropped from 4 amps back down to 2 amps.

Then I started wondering... I let the needle stabilize at its 2 amp mark and went over and tapped on the door release membrane. Since the fob was nowhere near the car, it just lit the little LED for a few seconds and then went off. The needle was back up to 4 amps, stayed there for 15 seconds, and then immediately dropped to 2 amps after the 15 second delay. I repeated the same process pushing the rear hatch button and with the same results: 15 second delay to sleep mode.

It looks like when the car wakes up, it has a pretty heavy ~2 amp current draw which is constant until the car goes back to sleep about 15 seconds later. It is now my theory that any number of things can cause a wake up condition but only one "bug" in the system is causing it to not go back to sleep. Of course, the bug has to be related to the reverse shutdown, column lock, or even relay 46 as a longshot. I'm going to try a couple of tests later today using the charging meter as a guage and will let you all know what I find.

Mike

 

It looks like when the car wakes up, it has a pretty heavy ~2 amp current draw which is constant until the car goes back to sleep about 15 seconds later. It is now my theory that any number of things can cause a wake up condition but only one "bug" in the system is causing it to not go back to sleep. Of course, the bug has to be related to the reverse shutdown, column lock, or even relay 46 as a longshot. I'm going to try a couple of tests later today using the charging meter as a guage and will let you all know what I find.
........................................ ........................................ ..............

Good post Mike. I like the use of your charger as a test tool. Dont tell the Company, they will raise the cost because it can mult task

Dave

 

There have been polls to show that there is probably no link between NAV and DBS, at least the major portion of DBS.
Also, the order of shutdown doesn't seem to matter, as long as it's left in reverse. I believe that your way is the recommended way, however.

 

The battery is a sealed unit and dead from lack of use caused by sufphation. Once this occurs, it's dead. Check the voltage, bet it's under 11 volts, and more like 6 volts. Thus the battery has a dead cell. Buy a new one.

My 2008 C6 uses an AC Delco Battery No. 85H7YR. Bought a new one for $94.99 and installed it. Works perfectly. Now, you need to buy a Battery conditioner to maintain 12 volts all the time because of all of the electronic gadgets eat up the voltage.

I bought a Battery Minder Plus, Model 12117. This will maintain correct voltage throught the non-use time and keep the voltage correct.
Very easy to install with a pigtail off the battery terminals. When you drive into the garage, just plug in the battery minder.

Solved my problem. My old battery lasted 32 months.

 

This thread is 5 years old. My guess is the OP has it fixed by now.

 

probably so.........

 

indeed