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If you let the spring load do it's job and push straight forward from 2nd and not to the right it will go into 3rd every time. If you push any shifter to the right it will jam.
Yeah, that I've been doing that since it was mentioned in one of the original threads on the issue and it does help quite a bit, but still seems to happen occasionally, probably due to my palm slips a bit or just inadverently/subconsciously go to the right a bit. None the less, I would still like the shorter throw from the aftermarket shifter and a safeguard from other people having the same problem if I let them drive the car hard.
Anyone else have any comments on the aftermarket shifters, including the Z06 shifter?
I put a B&M in my C6 and drove about 4000 miles with it. I have since gone back to the stock shifter for the following reasons:
1. The B&M is MUCH stiffer than the stock unit, so much so that I found the car tiring to drive around town. This is my main complaint with the B&M.
2. Increased noise and vibration with the B&M. This is particularly true if you use the B&M hard bushings (B&M mentions this in the installation instructions) less so with the stock rubber bushings. Even with the stock rubber bushings, the B&M is noisier than the stock unit.
A lot of folks like the B&M and it has plusses (much shorter and much more precise shift throws, particularly the 4th to 5th change) so do a search. There have been volumes written on the shifter subject. Also, consider a transmission fluid change, I changed to Royal Purple Synchromax, and this really smoothed out the shifting.
I put a B&M in my C6 and drove about 4000 miles with it. I have since gone back to the stock shifter for the following reasons:
1. The B&M is MUCH stiffer than the stock unit, so much so that I found the car tiring to drive around town. This is my main complaint with the B&M.
2. Increased noise and vibration with the B&M. This is particularly true if you use the B&M hard bushings (B&M mentions this in the installation instructions) less so with the stock rubber bushings. Even with the stock rubber bushings, the B&M is noisier than the stock unit.
Jimmy
Jimmy, is the increased noise nice high quality gear noise is just plain old rattly ugly noise?
About how long does it take to install a B&M?
Is this C5 mod a fair aproximation of what it takes to put one in a C6?
This may be totaly unrelated, but when I put a short throw shofter in my C4, the mechanism was real stiff. That was because the aftermarket kit (Hurst)was poorly made and needed some reworking to get rid of an interferance fit on what should have been a sliding fit. Once I fixed it it wasn't much stiffer than stock.
I put a B&M in my C6 and drove about 4000 miles with it. I have since gone back to the stock shifter for the following reasons:
1. The B&M is MUCH stiffer than the stock unit, so much so that I found the car tiring to drive around town. This is my main complaint with the B&M.
2. Increased noise and vibration with the B&M. This is particularly true if you use the B&M hard bushings (B&M mentions this in the installation instructions) less so with the stock rubber bushings. Even with the stock rubber bushings, the B&M is noisier than the stock unit.
A lot of folks like the B&M and it has plusses (much shorter and much more precise shift throws, particularly the 4th to 5th change) so do a search. There have been volumes written on the shifter subject. Also, consider a transmission fluid change, I changed to Royal Purple Synchromax, and this really smoothed out the shifting.
Jimmy
100% ....
I've got about 3 mos on the B&M 45044 now and the short throws are nice but not worth the extra shift effort, noise and vibration. I can even feel the syncros doing their job spinning down/up the clutch disc. I switched to RP Syncromax last week and it made a big difference, but not enough to make me stay with the B&M.
Also, to the above poster, I bought the Z06 shifter after reading the "35% shorter throw than the stock" comments on this forum, but it turns out to be an identical shifter except that the lower shift housing doesn't use the rubber bushings to mount to the torque tube housing, it's a rigid mount like the B&M bushings.
Also, to the above poster, I bought the Z06 shifter after reading the "35% shorter throw than the stock" comments on this forum, but it turns out to be an identical shifter except that the lower shift housing doesn't use the rubber bushings to mount to the torque tube housing, it's a rigid mount like the B&M bushings.
Did you measure how far both shifter levers stick out below the pivot point in the bearing?
I bought the Z06 shifter after reading the "35% shorter throw than the stock" comments on this forum, but it turns out to be an identical shifter except that the lower shift housing doesn't use the rubber bushings to mount to the torque tube housing, it's a rigid mount like the B&M bushings.
See the picture below for the reason GM isn't using rubber bushings. After 6 or 7 thousand miles, mine were destroyed. I didn't realize this until the OEM shifter was removed to install a B&M shifter on my 2005 C6.
See the picture below for the reason GM isn't using rubber bushings. After 6 or 7 thousand miles, mine were destroyed. I didn't realize this until the OEM shifter was removed to install a B&M shifter on my 2005 C6.
What is your impression of the difference in shifting force and noise volume and noise quality (pretty machinery sounds or just ugly noise) with the B&M.
anyone know the comparison of the new z06 shifter available on the market to the Hurst or B&M???
I believe that The stock 2006 Z06 Shifter is the same part number as the C6 Stock shifter.
I replaced my 2005 C6 shifter with B&M and couldn't be more pleased with the improvement.
Even got to use the stock shift **** without modification. After installation, you cannot tell the difference looks-wise but performance is a whole other matter.
What is your impression of the difference in shifting force and noise volume and noise quality (pretty machinery sounds or just ugly noise) with the B&M.
Is there anything you don't like about the B&M?
Shifting force: The same as stock at low rpms. At low rpms, I can place my hand beside the shifter in the hand-shake position, and shift from 1st to 2nd using four fingers without moving the rest of my hand. However, more force is required to shift while in mid to high rpms. It takes some time to get used to this.
Noise volume: Slightly more noise, but I don't have a problem with it. Hard to describe. Seems like you can hear the transmission a little more. I don't get any vibration noise from my shifter. Unlike some who have written about this in other threads.
The only thing I don't like is the harder pull/push required in mid to high rpms. I guess it's a trade-off for a more precise shifter. The stock shifter seemed a little sloppy, so I prefer the B&M.
Did you measure how far both shifter levers stick out below the pivot point in the bearing?
Yep, the position of the pivot relative to the mounting plate, and the length of the lever below the pivot is identical to the stock C6 shifter. On the B&M, it's easy to see that the pivot point is higher than the stock shifter.
See the picture below for the reason GM isn't using rubber bushings. After 6 or 7 thousand miles, mine were destroyed. I didn't realize this until the OEM shifter was removed to install a B&M shifter on my 2005 C6.
The bushings on the stock shifter looked pretty beat-up when I pulled them out, not as bad as those photos, but I doubt they would have lasted 20k miles. They're pretty soft.
I have access to a CNC machining center at work and will probably try making some new bushings out of UHMW or delrin or ??? Hopefully to keep the shifter firm but not as noisey as the solid aluminum ones.
Coming from a 330CI the stock C6 shifter seems like a short throw. Do aftermarket shifters really provide noticably shorter throws?
I had the B & M Ripper in my last C5, because of the poor shifter design (loose linkage and longer throws). I got 16K miles on my C6, and i left it stock because the throws are shorter and the shifter is much more precise. If I were racing the car, I'd probably go for another Ripper, but the additional effort needed to overcome the spring loading for first and reverse is more trouble than it would be worth for a daily driver.
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