When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I ordered a '06 that should be in mid-March. Now, a lot of people have said break it in for the first 500miles, others have said 1000, and I've even heard "just beat the sh*t out of it from the start". Now I usually would do the 500mile break-in but since you guys know best what do you say???
I ordered a '06 that should be in mid-March. Now, a lot of people have said break it in for the first 500miles, others have said 1000, and I've even heard "just beat the sh*t out of it from the start". Now I usually would do the 500mile break-in but since you guys know best what do you say???
If you vary speeds as recommended, 500 miles should be conservative. The tranny and differential gears should mate in the first 300 miles. That's what break in is about, getting the gears run in together so you won't have whine. The dyno run at the factory already seated the engine rings (moly rings seat very quickly, or not at all).
I followed the rules on the 500 mile break-in partly because this car scared the crap out of me and I wanted a gradual feel on how this thing handled accelerated and what not. I think I figured it out and I am not going to beat the crap out of it but will drive it for what it is built for...hair raising fun. I just stepped up to the C6 from a 2000 V12 SL600 so I can handle power but every time I drive it I think my V12 had wooden wheels. Not much help but this is what I did. Congrats on your purchase!!!
The dealer and the owners manual told the same tale of break in with the exception of max speed. The dealer said keep it under 70, and the owners manual said not to exceed 55. To be honest, 55 in 5th or 6th gear was simply impossible. I swear, I think that the car was getting ready to stall at those speeds in those high gears.
SO, 70 it was tops, but only in 5th or 6th gear. I would "goose" it to half throttle a time or two just to say hello.
When starting out in the morning, I would wait a solid minute or two after starting the car to go, and then I would not take the RPM's above 2500 with the oil temp under operating range.
But, tonight, mile 502 ticked away with the car at operating temperatures and I came up at a stop light. I did my first fairly full throttle run (no RPMS's above 4500, hit all gears) up to about 100. That was 5 hours ago, and I still have a smile on my face.
Look in the FAQ section at the top of C6 general. There's a good thread (with posts by some very intelligent members ). Just follow the instructions in the owners manual. In a nutshell:
for the first 500 miles:
1.easy on the motor and brakes
2.vary your speed (no cruise control)
3.try to limit your speed to 55 mph, this is for the ring and pinion, so low RPMs does not help. Vehicle speed is what counts. It may be impossible to stay below 55 in some situations. Just do your best.
4. ignore people who tell you to "break 'er in hard"
5. after 500 miles - have your way with 'er (but make sure the oil temp is at least 150 degrees first (some folks prefer 180 deg)
Beat it up while under warranty. Make every mile while in that time frame count. Break it in conservatively then let into it. I hate to see people drive these cars extremely slow.
o believe me...when i see 500miles on the odometer i'll see what shes capable of...my last car was a '01 roush mustang, so im not gonna be used to the awesomeness of the vette. I will never buy another ford car again after the experience i had with that piece.
Are you going to do ANYTHING ELSE the owner's manual says to do? Most people here will probably tell you to follow the owner's manual. Tell those who tell you otherwise to pony up the $50K and drive it however they want to.
It doesn't make a lot of differance as long as you don't abuse it or drone on at a steady speed for 500 miles.
The factory break-in procedure is a very conservative safe way to do it. The ideal beak-in would be more agressive but the differances between a more agressive break-in and abuse are too subtle for the average driver.
No disrespect intended, but if you have to ask, you should follow the manual. You will do no harm that way.
no its just that when i got my mustang everyone told me 1000miles and now im hearing 500 for the vette so i was just asking...id refer to the manual if i had one but as i siad the car wont be in for 6 weeks.
no its just that when i got my mustang everyone told me 1000miles and now im hearing 500 for the vette so i was just asking...id refer to the manual if i had one but as i siad the car wont be in for 6 weeks.
What I did... babied it for first 500 miles, all under 3,000 rpm and always under 50% throttle, then from 500 to 1,000 miles got a little more aggressive, but still keeping it under 4,000 rpm and no wide open throttle. Now from 1,000 - 1,500 miles I'll probably start to explore a little more into the 4,000 rpm area with a bit more frequent 75% throttle experimentation. Closer to 2,000 miles I'll probably feel ready to try 100% throttle and up to 5,000 rpm... and so on.
This type of care is not necessary, but if you have the patience, you can't go wrong by exercising such care. All I know is that I've been having loads of fun with this car even at under 75% throttle and under 4,000 rpm, that's the beauty of a huge ultra torquey pushrod V-8... you don't need to beat on it to have fun. I'd recommend changing the oil at between 1,000 and 1,500 miles though in any case.
If you vary speeds as recommended, 500 miles should be conservative. The tranny and differential gears should mate in the first 300 miles. That's what break in is about, getting the gears run in together so you won't have whine. The dyno run at the factory already seated the engine rings (moly rings seat very quickly, or not at all).
Thants what I was told at the museum when I picked mine up.
the first 500 miles should be for cruising and playing with the throttle, with no hard starts, vary the engine speeds and get on it a little bit when going thru the gears. In doing this you will seat the rings properly with out glazing the bores. If you are to easy you will have a weaker (hp) motor from not seating properly. I have owned Porsches and Vettes and work for a Porsche dealer and this comes from the mechanics. Oh, and after the brake in period drive it like you stole it, thats what it was made for Z51 Vert
o believe me...when i see 500miles on the odometer i'll see what shes capable of...my last car was a '01 roush mustang, so im not gonna be used to the awesomeness of the vette. I will never buy another ford car again after the experience i had with that piece.
I hate to hijack the thread, but were your mustang problems ford related or roush related? I have a roush truck w/ vortech supercharger, and while the factory ford parts haven't given me any problems, I will never buy another Roush or Vortech product again. I'm not just talking about reliability issues, but design flaws that nobody who calls themselves an engineer should make (stuff I can figure out better solutions to and I'm definately no engineer).
I know this has been harped on a little already, but in my vette club, we got guys that baby the hell out of it, and then guys that drove it like they stole it and are running from the cops since mile 1 from the dealer.
What I noticed is at the track, everyone pretty much runs exactly the same when their cars were stock. Says a hell of a lot about this drivetrain.
the first 500 miles should be for cruising and playing with the throttle, with no hard starts, vary the engine speeds and get on it a little bit when going thru the gears. In doing this you will seat the rings properly with out glazing the bores. If you are to easy you will have a weaker (hp) motor from not seating properly. I have owned Porsches and Vettes and work for a Porsche dealer and this comes from the mechanics. Oh, and after the brake in period drive it like you stole it, thats what it was made for Z51 Vert
It's a Corvette, not a Porsche. The rings are seated before you ever pick it up and there is no need to worry about "glazing" the bores. It's more important to vary the vehicle speed because the break-in period is more for the transmission and especially the differential gears. It's necessary for the brakes too and every time the brakes are replaced.
Look in the FAQ section at the top of C6 general. There's a good thread (with posts by some very intelligent members ). Just follow the instructions in the owners manual. In a nutshell:
for the first 500 miles:
1.easy on the motor and brakes
2.vary your speed (no cruise control)
3.try to limit your speed to 55 mph, this is for the ring and pinion, so low RPMs does not help. Vehicle speed is what counts. It may be impossible to stay below 55 in some situations. Just do your best.
4. ignore people who tell you to "break 'er in hard"
5. after 500 miles - have your way with 'er (but make sure the oil temp is at least 150 degrees first (some folks prefer 180 deg)
While your summation is pretty good, I read the thread in the FAQ and must say that was a whole lot of . It's a sad fact that it was put in the FAQ, it makes it sound like gospel but only serves to perpetuate more myths. That guy may know motorcycle engines but the last time I looked, GM doesn't put motorcycle engines in Corvettes. Let the reader beware!!!
I hate to hijack the thread, but were your mustang problems ford related or roush related? I have a roush truck w/ vortech supercharger, and while the factory ford parts haven't given me any problems, I will never buy another Roush or Vortech product again. I'm not just talking about reliability issues, but design flaws that nobody who calls themselves an engineer should make (stuff I can figure out better solutions to and I'm definately no engineer).
it was both ford and roush....the damn s/c blew on me twice...and ive had a lotta problems with the ford 4.6 engine...i was gonna wait for the 2007 shelby cobra but i went with the vette because I dont feel like spending 70K on a ford.