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This would effectively change the offsert of the wheel and affect handling, as would wider tires. The weight would go up only slightly. Interesting thought.
Would it add a considerable amount of weight as opposed to a wheel that was made wider during normal production? I'll eventually find someone in Miami or NY that can do a great job, or possibly send it off to a place like Weldcraft.
No, when they splice in a piece in the hoop the same thickness at the original hoop, it won't be any heavier than a factory built wheel the same width as your wider wheels would be.
There is a potential problem someone else mentioned. The way the stock wheel are made, the spokes are right out at the spectator side of the wheel. That makes it dificult to impossible to widen the wheel any direction except toward the car. You probably not have enough clearance in your wheel wells and would have to space the wheels out for clearance. Hopefully I'm wrong, but take a carefull look at how much space you have.
Regarding weldability of the wheels. Take a good look at a stock C6 wheel with the tire off. In the hoop area that's normally covered by the tire, you can see that there is a very clean joint about 3/4 inch inboard from the outer edge of the flat part of the hoop.
You can just cut the inner well, separate the two peices by 1 1/4 inches, epoxy that down, and reglass the gap for 20 bucks and then buy a pair of the outter well cover inserts, cut them half and cut the originlal oversized by 2 1/4 inch and rivet them together for a 1 1/4 inch increase in wheel well space and save yourself 600 bucks off the lingenfelter kit.
You can just cut the inner well, separate the two peices by 1 1/4 inches, epoxy that down, and reglass the gap for 20 bucks and then buy a pair of the outter well cover inserts, cut them half and cut the originlal oversized by 2 1/4 inch and rivet them together for a 1 1/4 inch increase in wheel well space and save yourself 600 bucks off the lingenfelter kit.
SpinMonster seems to know what he is talking about. I plan to mini tub mine before I purchase wheels and tires. That way I can put some real meat on the back of the car. But its smart to measure 3 times and cut once. And don't cut to much. Take it slow and recheck fit often. Then practice glass work with some experimental mat prior to working on your car. You don't want air bubbles in the glass work. Don't rush the glass work. Let it cure well as you sand it and layer it. That will keep you from getting lumps in your work. Prime the glass before painting and no one will ever now what you did. Then put the carpet back in and put on some real wheels and tires. Install nitrous or FI system and go looking for Porsche Turbo, Dodge Viper, Z06, etc.
Include me in on this . I would like to keep my stock looking set up but with some real meat on the rear
MTI has 12" rims on the Devil Ray vettes they build.
I wonder what offsets they used to be able to fit that in the wheel wells?
I think GM should have gave us Z51 owners 11'' inch rims on the rear included in the Z51 option.
Is there anyone willing to measure this for me. My car is on order. If someone does I will press on and give this a try. I think I will try to have an 18x10.5 made. That way I can run ET streets or BFG's I believe.
Spin do you mind posting how this needs to be measured so we can get a volunteer?
If you are asking me the answer is no. I am not doing anything drastic to the engine so basically stock HP. I will take my chances. I drag raced two C5's for a few years with no problems with the stock tranny.
I like DR's for consistency, I bracket drag race. Any spin and you lose. I always just launch from idle also for consistency. But like you said you can break it. Pay to play is ok with me.