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What exactly is being ported? I pulled mine off today and looked at it, and the intake isn't exactly one you can gasket match like a LT1/LT4 intake. I measured the holes and from looking at it, the Head port is about 1/8" bigger then the runner on the intake. So I could reasonably assume that I would want to take off about 1/16" off both sides of the LS2 Intake port.
However I was always under the impression w/ all my old cars, that a ported intake wont do much good if the heads aren't matched. Now I see that if I can make the intake match the existing heads perfect that one would see large gains. But if you port too much, then the air will hit the head causing turbulance. Which is probably why the intake has slightly smaller ports then the heads.
I do see a few ridges here and there that would be really easy to touch up and smooth out air flow.
At any rate, I wouldn't mind attempting to port this thing out myself. Any advise would be great.
I'm with yu on this one. Any advice would definitely be helpful. I just got a new intake manifold from Fred Bean's for just this purpose. If I mess it up, I won't have to park the car.
i pullede mine last week as well and found the same thing. i went ahead and smoothed the ruff edges but other then that i do not see much more to "port" so so infowould be great
I've got my first one "out there" in testing right now. Should have feedback soon. I know that in my porting I remove more than flashing. Can't say what anyone else is doing. I focused on straightening airflow in my porting work. I'd warn anyone to go easy and proceed with a great deal of caution because there are thin spots and the material goes away fast.
If you break it you might be able to epoxy repair it... but it will suck.
I'll post results from mine as soon as we have them... which I think will be very soon. Sorry... but I won't be posting pics... what I do is my secret
From what I'm reading you guys are removing so little material how much are you really going to gain?. I've looked at my LS2 intake and there's not much you can remove to gain any benefit. Port matching and clean up does very little to improve flow, because It's not port so much that's inadequate, it's the runners and the size of the plenium that limits the flow capacity of the manifold, and you can't do anything to improve it. An LS6 manifold would be better, but it's TB is to small.
You're trying hard to split hairs here, and it's not for a lack of trying to make it better. It's just not going to work very well. I know the FAST 90 manifold is costly, and it's costly to moddify it and the firewall. I would save my money and get one, because to resulting HP and TQ gains are impressive. Before I installed my FAST my car was making 410RWHP/384RWTQ, after it jumped to 425RWHP/405RWTQ. Then adding my ET 215 heads,it jumped again to 461/435. I really believe even though the ET head design is excellent they wouldn't have worked as well without the FAST. If you're looking for long term gains that can be improved upon as you do more additions; I think the FAST is a good investment. I know this is more than .02 cents, but....
From what I'm reading you guys are removing so little material how much are you really going to gain?. I've looked at my LS2 intake and there's not much you can remove to gain any benefit. Port matching and clean up does very little to improve flow, because It's not port so much that's inadequate, it's the runners and the size of the plenium that limits the flow capacity of the manifold, and you can't do anything to improve it. An LS6 manifold would be better, but it's TB is to small.
You're trying hard to split hairs here, and it's not for a lack of trying to make it better. It's just not going to work very well. I know the FAST 90 manifold is costly, and it's costly to moddify it and the firewall. I would save my money and get one, because to resulting HP and TQ gains are impressive. Before I installed my FAST my car was making 410RWHP/384RWTQ, after it jumped to 425RWHP/405RWTQ. Then adding my ET 215 heads,it jumped again to 461/435. I really believe even though the ET head design is excellent they wouldn't have worked as well without the FAST. If you're looking for long term gains that can be improved upon as you do more additions; I think the FAST is a good investment. I know this is more than .02 cents, but....
Andreas g.
Andreas, what is your warranty situation? For me, it's not a money issue, it's about permanent mods to the car, non-factory fuel rail arrangement, and the look of a highly modified motor(even if it isn't). My dealer will overlook exhaust/air filter mods and still provide warranty service. Putting a FAST on there might make them think twice about touching the car, for fear of what else is lurking underneath. The FAST gains on a near stock engine would have to be clear before I'd touch it.
Most of the real world dyno results that have been posted show that the ported LS2 provides around 10-11 rwhp on a bolt-on car, and the FAST provides right around the same, with most averaging 12 or so. In this case, it's not clear that the FAST is superior at all. If you've got a head/cam car, the FAST is clearly a good choice. For a more mild bolt-on combo, it's not clear at all. I will gladly report what I find, good or bad.
Actually the stock fuel rails fit, you just need some small washers to step over the lip of the fuel rail tab and hold it down when you run the FAST bolts in to secure the manifold. As for waranty, well since I've modded every car I've had over the last 30 years; I haven't been to concerned about it. I know that's not the smartest approach, but I've been lucky, and when I've had waranty issues, the dealers have been
great to me. Of course an 18 year old bottle of scotch doesn't hurt either. Oh well...
Andreas, what is your warranty situation? For me, it's not a money issue, it's about permanent mods to the car, non-factory fuel rail arrangement, and the look of a highly modified motor(even if it isn't). My dealer will overlook exhaust/air filter mods and still provide warranty service. Putting a FAST on there might make them think twice about touching the car, for fear of what else is lurking underneath. The FAST gains on a near stock engine would have to be clear before I'd touch it.
Most of the real world dyno results that have been posted show that the ported LS2 provides around 10-11 rwhp on a bolt-on car, and the FAST provides right around the same, with most averaging 12 or so. In this case, it's not clear that the FAST is superior at all. If you've got a head/cam car, the FAST is clearly a good choice. For a more mild bolt-on combo, it's not clear at all. I will gladly report what I find, good or bad.
Thanks Flareside, you pretty much hit it right on the nose. If your car has minor mods, porting the LS2 intake manifold is about the greatest bargain right now. I'm considering this particular mod even before the CAI, exhaust, etc.
Just for reference, here's how the new LS2 intake looks from the factory. There's certainly room for improvement here. The rough areas and steps are even worse in person. Every port looks like this, and the problems run deep into every runner.