Torque your wheels regularly
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,322
Likes: 3
From: Hugetown Texas
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Torque your wheels regularly
A little maintenance data point for you folks.
I went on a 3500 mile trip two weeks ago and went to our race shop so I could do some post-trip maintenance on the C6. All was pretty normal, except I noticed my wheels all needed torquing. About 1200 of the trip miles were on very twisty roads (Deal's Gap, etc.) so I think we all should get out the old torque wrench every so often, especially after doing a track event, autocross, or twisty mountain roads.
I went on a 3500 mile trip two weeks ago and went to our race shop so I could do some post-trip maintenance on the C6. All was pretty normal, except I noticed my wheels all needed torquing. About 1200 of the trip miles were on very twisty roads (Deal's Gap, etc.) so I think we all should get out the old torque wrench every so often, especially after doing a track event, autocross, or twisty mountain roads.
Last edited by bradb; Jun 26, 2006 at 07:02 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by bradb
A little maintenance data point for you folks.
I went on a 3500 mile trip two weeks ago and went to our race shop so I could do some post-trip maintenance on the C6. All was pretty normal, except I noticed my wheels all needed torquing. About 1200 of the trip miles were on very twisty roads (Deal's Gap, etc.) so I think we all should get out the old torque wrench every so often, especially after doind a track event, autocross, or twisty mountain roads.
I went on a 3500 mile trip two weeks ago and went to our race shop so I could do some post-trip maintenance on the C6. All was pretty normal, except I noticed my wheels all needed torquing. About 1200 of the trip miles were on very twisty roads (Deal's Gap, etc.) so I think we all should get out the old torque wrench every so often, especially after doind a track event, autocross, or twisty mountain roads.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 31
From: Central Florida
When you guys say you "check" in torque on the lugs. Tell me how you do that.
To check mine, I actually
(1) raise the wheels
(2) loosen the lug nuts and
(3) retorque them using a three step progression 35, 70, 100, following a star pattern, so that no two adjacent lugs are tightened sequentially.
Short of doing those steps, what is the procedure for just "checking" the set value?
Ranger
To check mine, I actually
(1) raise the wheels
(2) loosen the lug nuts and
(3) retorque them using a three step progression 35, 70, 100, following a star pattern, so that no two adjacent lugs are tightened sequentially.
Short of doing those steps, what is the procedure for just "checking" the set value?
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; Aug 16, 2006 at 09:21 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 182
From: Manassas VA
Originally Posted by Ranger
When you guys say you "check" in torque on the lugs. Tell me how you do that.
To check mine, I actually
(1) raise the wheels
(2) loosen the lug nuts and
(3) retorque them
Short of doing those steps, what is the procedure for just "checking" the set value?
Ranger
To check mine, I actually
(1) raise the wheels
(2) loosen the lug nuts and
(3) retorque them
Short of doing those steps, what is the procedure for just "checking" the set value?
Ranger
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale AZ
'Checking torque' is accomplished with the wheels on the ground and the wrench set to 100 lbs (as an example, since many will argue with the recommended torque). Using whatever tightening pattern you are comfortable with, apply pressure and if the wrench clicks you are good on that stud. If it tightens further and clicks, you've torqued it.
Coincidentally, I had the right front wheel off my 2006 Z06 with 3800 miles this morning, and after torqueing it I went around the car with the wheels on the ground and tightened 2 or 3 nuts on every other wheel a bit. It was the first time I checked them since I got the car April 1st.
So torqueing per the Major's method or on the ground, making sure your wheels are on soundly can't be overemphasized!
Coincidentally, I had the right front wheel off my 2006 Z06 with 3800 miles this morning, and after torqueing it I went around the car with the wheels on the ground and tightened 2 or 3 nuts on every other wheel a bit. It was the first time I checked them since I got the car April 1st.
So torqueing per the Major's method or on the ground, making sure your wheels are on soundly can't be overemphasized!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,322
Likes: 3
From: Hugetown Texas
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Yeah, just have the car on the ground and check the lugs by going to every other one in rotation. Doesn't hurt every so often to back off a lug that clicks quickly and retorque. The more you do this, the better your 'feel' will get.
Proper torque will lengthen rotor life, btw.
Proper torque will lengthen rotor life, btw.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 31
From: Central Florida
Thanks for the info guys.
My lugs were torqued at delivery. And in the 5500 miles since, the fronts have been torqued three times (when removed for cleaning) and the rears sixteen times, when the DRs have gone on and off.
But good to learn the check method.
Ranger
My lugs were torqued at delivery. And in the 5500 miles since, the fronts have been torqued three times (when removed for cleaning) and the rears sixteen times, when the DRs have gone on and off.
But good to learn the check method.
Ranger
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: Mountain Top pa
when i put my locking lugs on my new vette the day i picked it up, almost all of the lugs were too loose. not sure why, but ceratainly not a bad idea to have the dealer check before you pick up the car, or if you already have the car, check them
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
Any time I reinstall a wheel, I retorque the nuts after about 25 miles, and then about every 200 miles until I get two consecutive times when none of the nuts moved at the specified torque. Usually, they move at 25, 200, 400 miles, then stay tight after that.
Of course I also check them before and after any autocross or long trip
BTW, do NOT use any oil or antiseize on the studs/nuts, the torques values are for "dry" threads.
Of course I also check them before and after any autocross or long trip
BTW, do NOT use any oil or antiseize on the studs/nuts, the torques values are for "dry" threads.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,322
Likes: 3
From: Hugetown Texas
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Originally Posted by vetdude
If you use the above method of "apply pressure and if the wrench clicks you are good on that stud", how do you know it's not over-torqued to say 150lbs?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 321
From: Clarksville TN
If you are checking wheels that someone else torqued, back them off and retorque to be sure they aren't overtorqued. if you were the last one to torque them, you need only set wrench at 100 lbs and check them.......unless someone can tell me how lugs can get tighter as you drive??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 182
From: Manassas VA
Originally Posted by vipervetteguy
If you are checking wheels that someone else torqued, back them off and retorque to be sure they aren't overtorqued. if you were the last one to torque them, you need only set wrench at 100 lbs and check them.......unless someone can tell me how lugs can get tighter as you drive??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,566
Likes: 2
From: Goleta CA
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Any time I reinstall a wheel, I retorque the nuts after about 25 miles, and then about every 200 miles until I get two consecutive times when none of the nuts moved at the specified torque. Usually, they move at 25, 200, 400 miles, then stay tight after that.
Of course I also check them before and after any autocross or long trip
BTW, do NOT use any oil or antiseize on the studs/nuts, the torques values are for "dry" threads.
Of course I also check them before and after any autocross or long trip
BTW, do NOT use any oil or antiseize on the studs/nuts, the torques values are for "dry" threads.
I always am able to get some nuts to tighten more after installing the wheels, even if I just drive around the block. So they need to be checked at least once after installing wheels.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale AZ
Originally Posted by vetdude
If you use the above method of "apply pressure and if the wrench clicks you are good on that stud", how do you know it's not over-torqued to say 150lbs?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
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From: Central Florida
Here is an explanation of why it's necessary to loosen the lugnut and retorque it.
Ranger
Originally Posted by glass slipper
...If you have a bolt/nut torqued to an unknown torque, there is no way to determine what it's torqued to. All torque values are taken when the bolt/nut is moving. The dynamic (bolt/nut moving) coefficient of friction is less than the static (bolt/nut stationary) coefficient of friction. So once you stop moving, the amount of torque required to start the bolt/nut moving again can be 50-100% of the amount of torque existing with dry (no lubricant) threads. So say you have a lug nut that is at 70 LB FT, it can take anywhere from 105-140 LB FT to get it moving again. If your torque wrench is set to 100 LB FT and clicks without the bolt/nut moving, the only thing you know is it's torqued to 50 LB FT or more. It may be 150 LB FT, or it could be just 50 LB FT...don't risk it, continue using the procedure you used. When in doubt, loosen and retighten making sure the bolt/nut continues moving in a smooth motion until the torque wrench clicks.
There is a lot misunderstanding about torquing bolts/nuts. Most people think bolts/nuts are torqued to prevent them from loosening. If that was the reason, there are many ways to prevent a bolt/nut from unscrewing. The main reason we torque bolts/nuts is to preload them to prevent fatigue failure of the bolt/stud. If we torque above the max load the bolt/nut will see, no alternating stresses (like bending a paper clip back and forth) will occur thereby eliminating fatigue failure.
http://www.tpub.com/air/3-7.htm
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_1.htm
There is a lot misunderstanding about torquing bolts/nuts. Most people think bolts/nuts are torqued to prevent them from loosening. If that was the reason, there are many ways to prevent a bolt/nut from unscrewing. The main reason we torque bolts/nuts is to preload them to prevent fatigue failure of the bolt/stud. If we torque above the max load the bolt/nut will see, no alternating stresses (like bending a paper clip back and forth) will occur thereby eliminating fatigue failure.
http://www.tpub.com/air/3-7.htm
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_1.htm
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 8
From: Whitehall PA
Good information Ranger.
If a wheel is removed on any of my cars by someone other than myself, I have always backed off all wheel nuts and then retorked when I got the car home. Like you, I jacked the wheel I was working on to keep it centered on the studs. It seems to me that if I tork the nuts with the full weight of the car on the wheel, it might be tightened off center. I must admit that lately I am getting lazy and have, on occasion, retorked with the wheels on the ground. Must be advancing age related laziness.
If a wheel is removed on any of my cars by someone other than myself, I have always backed off all wheel nuts and then retorked when I got the car home. Like you, I jacked the wheel I was working on to keep it centered on the studs. It seems to me that if I tork the nuts with the full weight of the car on the wheel, it might be tightened off center. I must admit that lately I am getting lazy and have, on occasion, retorked with the wheels on the ground. Must be advancing age related laziness.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,242
Likes: 8
I've never, ever done this for any car; yet I've never had a wheel come loose or known of a problem from an improperly torqued wheel. Now that I have changed the C6 wheels to DR's on occasion, I got a torque wrench.
Do you recommend this for all cars? What kind of problem are we eliminating? Realistically. Also, is the 100lb for all cars, or do I need to look it up for my other vehicles?
Do you recommend this for all cars? What kind of problem are we eliminating? Realistically. Also, is the 100lb for all cars, or do I need to look it up for my other vehicles?