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Very often. after each wheel install and before each on track session.
I use an impact wrentch to install the wheels. winds up being about 90 ft lbs, then torque to 100 lbs. I use a deep socket 6 sided 19 mm.
If you take your wheels on and off a lot, as in auto-x or track days / racing one may wish to install ARP ( Hardened ) studs.
Dont forget to remove the little star washer next to the disk brake. That is only for holding the disk in place during assembly. Dealers should remove these during prep, but they dont.
I don't understand how loosening one lug nut at a time out of five would risk causing the wheel to be off center with the weight of the car on it.
To properly tighten wheel nuts, they should be alternately tightened in a criss-cross pattern gradually building to the proper torque setting. Tightening one nut at a time can **** the wheel causing stress that can warp a rotor. Unless you watch someone who is working on your car, you never know if they used the proper pattern much less if the wheel was torqued to the right setting. That is why I always loosen all lug nuts and then tighten using the correct pattern with a torque wrench. Before I started doing this my rotors usually warped within a short time after someone worked on the car. Most garage workers take the the shortest route to tightening a wheel nut, which is not good for the longevity of rotors. However, in recent years I am finding that many times they do it correctly, but I still feel the need to retorque my wheels. About half the time I am glad I did.
If you are checking wheels that someone else torqued, back them off and retorque to be sure they aren't overtorqued. if you were the last one to torque them, you need only set wrench at 100 lbs and check them.......unless someone can tell me how lugs can get tighter as you drive??
You can't just put the torque wrench to 100 lbs. and slowly see if it needs tightening by how it feels?
I've never, ever done this for any car; yet I've never had a wheel come loose or known of a problem from an improperly torqued wheel. Now that I have changed the C6 wheels to DR's on occasion, I got a torque wrench.
Do you recommend this for all cars? What kind of problem are we eliminating? Realistically. Also, is the 100lb for all cars, or do I need to look it up for my other vehicles?
I have always done this with my other cars but not with a torque wrench but by the simple way using a tire jack via star pattern and every time I checked them at a later date they always did need tightening. Wheel shops also put that in print usually after 25 miles of driving to have the lugs nuts tighten.