I've read a few people using WW to help with engine temps. Has anyone experienced any negatives with it? I used to use it in my previous turbo'd 3.8L V6 to help with temps. Wondering how people are doing using it on the LS2. Wondering if it works without any other temp. mods i/e stat/fan. Does it help? Do you have to drain any coolant out? Do you flush the radiator more often now? Any problems in the colder winter temps?

Thanks

 

Problem is no freezing protection. Do not add to antifreeze, more effective when added to water only.

 

no problem for me, of course i don't see freezing temp either.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1431370

 

I don't think that has much to do with the water wetter. Water is a better heat transfer medium than antifreeze. But the problem with running 100% water is that you miss out on the corrosion inhibitors and freeze protection.

Also, I can see how water wetter would make a theoretical improvement. But I have my doubts that it would make a measurable difference.

 

I use it and it dropped the temp slightly.

 

Unless you are having problems with Nucleate Boiling there is no real need for water wetter in our cars. It helps break the surface tension of liquid to stop the occurance of hot spots.

Running a car at the track requires a different setup than one which spends most of its time on the street. I am not a big fan on running any aluminum motor materially colder than stock on the street.

Technology has enabled motors to run much hotter and perform better than when we all ran performance cars in the 60s. Just my opinion, after all it is your car.

 

You bring up a good point. My previous car was highly modded and temp. control was key to it's performance abilities. With my stock C6 I don't believe it is really necessary. But I still have 2 bottles left over...

 

Some reports of the coolant "gelling" when if air is in the system, i.e. low coolant.

 

I run it. I think the product 40 below works better but you can not mix it with our anti freeze. I am thinking about going all water for the summer and use the 40 below again.

It works I think, sort of hard to tell. I have a 160 t stat, and my fans turn on at 100% when they come on. I cruise at 180, launch at the strip at 180. Rare for it to ever go above 185 in any Ohio wx so far.

Car will run a faster qtr mile 180-190, that I can personally attest to.

 

It says right on the can that it is "compatible with ethylene glycol," which is the base ingredient of Dex-Cool, used in modern Corvettes.

 

Same as using just straight water result will be the same with or without Water Wetter as car runs cooler with using just water.

 

Absolutely NONE of the modern fuel injected cars I've ever owned ran better (ie: faster) in hot weather than in cold weather...same goes for a car sitting in traffic (or idling in the staging lanes) for three hours versus one that was simply fully warmed up properly and raced, aluminum or iron.
When looking for performance hotter is not always better, be it on the track or the street.



100%

 

You could be right Major. I read the label a few months ago and I thought I saw something that told me not to use it. Could be a brain fart on my part.

You are talking about 40 below now?? Not watter wetter?

 

[QUOTE=LS1LT1]Absolutely NONE of the modern fuel injected cars I've ever owned ran better (ie: faster) in hot weather than in cold weather...same goes for a car sitting in traffic (or idling in the staging lanes) for three hours versus one that was simply fully warmed up properly and raced, aluminum or iron.
When looking for performance hotter is not always better, be it on the track or the street. [QUOTE]


Please don't mis-quote me I stated:

"Technology has enabled motors to run much hotter and perform better than when we all ran performance cars in the 60s." which means Our cars run hotter than cars produced in the 60s with better performance.
Last I checked the new cars can run at over 200 degrees whereas older car could not.

No where did I say hotter runs faster. But since you brought up the subject. Most of us are middle age and it is time to embrase new technology. YES CHANGE IS GOOD....... Earlier there was a thread concerning drilling a air hole in the throttle blade to allow a new cam to idle properly. That was an acceptable fix back in the day. Now it can be done with programing. There are many ways to fix something automotive we should be looking at new and different.

We are still reverting back to yesterdays solutions changing the thermostat on a car designed to run at higher temps. If we all had half a brain then we would realize its the intake charge that needs to be cooler.

It is much easier to control the coolant temp. If you don't hot lap the car and run the cooling fans just before you come up to the line you can still launch at reasonable cool temp so that the computer does not pull too much timing.

I am sure the better drivers know this, otherwise they not have run really quick times. Or are you telling me that you ran 12.40 at better than 200 degrees.

Once again my opinion, if you want to discuss something I have stated I am always open to discussion but please take my posts in their entire context.

Thanks

Tommy

 

10 degree drop on track. I run water and water wetter, no anitfreeze. Then again I am in N Caolina, so not much extended freezing weather, and if there is I dont drive the vette.

 

Correct. I think Water Wetter comes in a bottle (not a can) . . . just like some of my favorite beverages.