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Lots of " talk" regarding 1 3/4 -vs -1 7/8 whats the deal. I see lots of guys here with dynatechs and they only come in 1 7/8 and everyone seems happy with them. Any one able to jusify Not getting the smaller tube ? I mean,does the 1/8 of an inch make that much difference on a car without forced induction?
the 1 7/8s is for the 427. the 1 3/4 is for the LS6 and LS2 blocks.
The 1 7/8s on the LS2 blocks will work, but most likley there will be better performanc from the 1 3/4 on the LS2.
why does dyna tech only make one size for the c-6? give me numbers please. how can an 1/8" bigger tube hurt the 400 hp engine, if at all???
I see american racing putting larger tubes on also. I feel theat this will reduce backpressure, which up to a point is good. I would like to hear from a tech the merits of pro and con
I'm no expert, but I remember this was discussed. Too large of a chamber will create some kind of turbulence, which is counterproductive to the goal of getting the exhaust out as quickly and efficiently as possible. Or something like that, I think.
I don't know that 1/8" is going to be a critical difference but I was lead to believe the 1 3/4" design provides optimal benefits for the LS2....perhaps a slight edge in low-end torque. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will jump-in with definitive proof.
There are many good brands but after doing a little research, I went with (coated) LG Pro long tube headers with high-flow centers. IMO they were the best choice. I'm very happy with them.
FWIW, I'm not a proponent of forced-induction on a stock, cast-piston engine (irregardless of the size of headers used).
Both headers work. It's just that on the street in the rpm range where most of your driving is spent, the 1 3/4" primaries give you the best torque off idle and up. Yes you might give up a few HP at top of the rpm scale, but who but drag racers seek that rpm range all the time.
Just remember that torque talks the loudest on the street. Not high rpm HP. High rpm HP is for sustained high speed driving. So, both 1 3/4"
and 1 7/8" work well; they just work well in different places of the rpm scale. I choose 1 3/4" Kooks, my car is a daily driver making 461rwhp/435rwtq. They worked for me.
what about for a car thats a daily driver(very daily unless it snows) sees the track once 2 twice a year. only mods planned for the car are cai,headers and catback
what about for a car thats a daily driver(very daily unless it snows) sees the track once 2 twice a year. only mods planned for the car are cai,headers and catback
I'd add tuning to that list for a nice gain on top of what you have planned. Talk to the tuner, but they will probably recommend the smaller 1 3/4" for the LS1,2, and 6 and 1 7/8" for the LS7.
Bigger is not always better. Matched to the application is better. Tubing size is only one factor, length, equal length, x pipe... go for the system optimized for that engine. Low end torque is your best bet for a street driver.
One of the things I see people looking for in daily driven street cars is a huge advertised RWHP number. That is not going to give you the best "feel" on the street. Area under the curve and TQ are going to give you "happy" street cars. Peak hp @ 7k rpm will not. Look at headers that give good tq on a stock cube motor, you will have more fun.
what about for a car thats a daily driver(very daily unless it snows) sees the track once 2 twice a year. only mods planned for the car are cai,headers and catback
Let me ask you this; does two track outting a year, out weigh the time you spend on the street? For me it would be a no brainer, answer, no.
I would build my car for the street ,not the track. It's not top end power, that's just a number on a dyno. it's the power under the curve that moves you. What is it GM used to say, "horsepower sells cars, torque moves them". And since you only plan the above mentioned mods, the 1 3/4" primaries would be the better choice. Even with ETheads,224/228 cam, headers , tunning, and cat back, I still choose he 1 3/4" Kooks, and I don't regret it.Hope the info is helpful.
From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
Originally Posted by andreas g.
Both headers work. It's just that on the street in the rpm range where most of your driving is spent, the 1 3/4" primaries give you the best torque off idle and up. Yes you might give up a few HP at top of the rpm scale, but who but drag racers seek that rpm range all the time.
Just remember that torque talks the loudest on the street. Not high rpm HP. High rpm HP is for sustained high speed driving. So, both 1 3/4"
and 1 7/8" work well; they just work well in different places of the rpm scale. I choose 1 3/4" Kooks, my car is a daily driver making 461rwhp/435rwtq. They worked for me.
andreas g
The best explaination I've ever read
hazchris:
Since you're in the NY area give Chuck over at Corvette's Of Westchester a call. He's a big fan of the LGs and I'm sure he can help you make the best choice for your set up.
1 7/8 here too. But I knew I was going to go FI eventually, and didn't want to have to change them out.
All depends on where you want to go with your mods. If SC or NOS is in your future, then go 1 7/8 - keeping in mind you will lose some bottom end TQ. Personally, I didn't really find it very noticable before I put the blower on...
Don't let anyone fool you, size does matter! But in this case, the 1 3/4" is about right for the LS2. However, I wouldn't lose any sleep over using the 1 7/8" primaries. However, Lou claims that they made more power under the curve with the 1 3/4" primaries even on an LS7.
Both headers work. It's just that on the street in the rpm range where most of your driving is spent, the 1 3/4" primaries give you the best torque off idle and up. Yes you might give up a few HP at top of the rpm scale, but who but drag racers seek that rpm range all the time.
Just remember that torque talks the loudest on the street. Not high rpm HP. High rpm HP is for sustained high speed driving. So, both 1 3/4"
and 1 7/8" work well; they just work well in different places of the rpm scale. I choose 1 3/4" Kooks, my car is a daily driver making 461rwhp/435rwtq. They worked for me.
andreas g
Ditto, this post says it all
PS
I beleive the Dynatechs also have the smaller 2 1/2" collector where most other designs have a 3"
Remember, the key here is to maintain velocity out of the exhaust port and scavenge on the next cycle. It is not a backpressure issue, it's velocity and 1 3/4s are better for the LS2. The increased velocity and scavenging are what provide better torque throughout most of the RPM range.
Remember, the key here is to maintain velocity out of the exhaust port and scavenge on the next cycle. It is not a backpressure issue, it's velocity and 1 3/4s are better for the LS2. The increased velocity and scavenging are what provide better torque throughout most of the RPM range.
so if my dynatechs have a smaller collector with the larger tubes, is this a push? velocity wise? and without sounding toooo dumb, please explain scavenge. It sounds like when the exhaust valves open you get a little backflow? is this a good guess?