My harmonic balancer walked toward the engine. I take it I need to replace the balancer, or ???. If I need to replace it can anyone give me step by step instructions on how this task is done.

I have a 1999 vette.
Thanks

 

might want to get a mod to move this thread into the C5 section.

 

You'll need a harmonic balancer (HB) and the bolt that holds it to the crankshaft. The bolt is a torque to yield type that can only be used once. You'll need to go to the C5 section to get step by step instructions and the torque procedure for the bolt. You torque it to a certain value and then tighten it another xxx number of degrees. I did this job on my daughters '99 and it was a bitch of a job, but repair shops want anywhere from $900-$1200 to replace it and the parts only cost me ~$150 so it was worth it. It's not really that difficult technically, just a pain in the butt. You'll need a HB puller which you can borrow from Auto Zone if you have one in your area. You'll also need a HB installation tool which Auto Zone didn't have, but I went to the hardware store and fabricated one for much cheaper than buying one. Whatever you do, don't use a bolt screwing into the crankshaft snout to pull the HB on and don't use a hammer to beat the HB on. I can just about promise you that you will mess up your engine by either stripping out the threads in the crankshaft snout (requiring a new crankshaft or heli-coil, either one requiring removal/disassembly of the engine) or damaging the thrust bearing for the crankshaft (which you won't know until you start the engine and wipe the bearing/damage the crankshaft).
Replacement of the HB will require removal of the rack and pinion steering gear which is fairly straight forward. If you have active handling, beware of turning the steering wheel or the input shaft to the rack and pinion. If you get them out of phase, it'll continually throw a "Service Active Handling" code and disable traction control and active handling. When you first start driving the car after starting it, the computer is looking for 100 feet of straight ahead driving to reference all the wheel speed sensors so it will be able to detect a skid. If you're in a parking garage or some place where you're doing a lot of turning, the computer doesn't see the 100' it's looking for and initially gives a "Active Handling Warming Up" message. If after a certain time it still doesn't get it, it throws the "Service..." code. If you get the coupling out of phase, there is a steering wheel position sensor in the steering column that will indicate to the computer you are continuously turning when in fact you are going straight ahead. Somehow that happened to me during the job even though I was being careful and I had to disconnect the coupling and get it back in phase...no big deal, just one more alligator waiting to bite you in the a$$.
I also had trouble getting the crankshaft bolt loose, my impact wrench didn't have enough guts to break it loose (it's rated to 350 ft lb of torque!) and I had trouble holding the crankshaft while trying to loosen it with a breaker bar and pipe. I had the same problem holding the crankshaft when it came time to torque it. The procedure I got off the C5 forum said to use a special tool in the flywheel to hold the crankshaft stationary, but I always like a challenge and came up with a very inexpensive (as in free) solution...Ok, I'm cheap and didn't want to spend the money for a tool I was only going to use once. I wrapped the old accessory belt (it was ruined when the HB failed, might as well make it useful) around the crankshaft pulley 360 degrees and then folded it back on itself one way or the other (depending on which direction I was turning the bolt), then I found something substantial to hook the other end to thus turning it into a very effective strap wrench. I hope you can visualize what I just said as it was a very simple solution to what seemed like a difficult problem. A friend of mine couldn't get his bolt off either. When I went over to help him I used my little trick and he was amazed at how easy it was for me to get it loose by myself. I'm 5'10" 150 LBs with a handicap in my right hand and he's 5'10" 230 LBs...work smarter not harder. But then again, I don't have much choice.
I just wanted to pass along my bumps/pitfalls and solutions so you might have an easier time of it. Go to the C5 forum to get the step by step procedure and then have at it. A friend is great for moral support if nothing else and it always helps to have a second set of eyes. When you're in the middle of it cursing like a sailor, keep reminding yourself that you're saving ~$1000. Then think about how you're going to spend all that money you saved.

 

Don't get discouraged by that story, it will take a few hours and is apain in the *** but te average guy can do it. You might want to consider a cam swap while the car is apart 98% of the work will already be done.
You wont find an article on swapping balancers, look for a cam swap article, its exactly the same.

 

Sorry, it wasn't meant to be discouraging, quite the opposite in fact. It will take more than a few hours though unless you're very, very experienced at it and have all the tools on hand.

There are procedures for changing the HB. Try these two:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1558153288
http://www.magnusonproducts.com/pdf/...ntercooled.pdf
The first link has a picture of the tool I made to install the HB in post #4. The second link is instructions for installing a supercharger including pinning the HB/pulley. Go to the part about pinning the HB/pulley. They don't actually pull the HB, but it's the next step after removing the bolt.

 

I did this on my 01 Z28 and it was not hard. Not sure why the other guy had so much trouble or thought it was a pain in the a$$. Just borrow the puller from Autozone, it will come right off. Then when you put it back on, I got a trick from LS1TECH.COM. Get a longer bolt from NAPA and use this to pull it on. If you try to use the stock bolt there won't be enough thread engagement and you can pull the crank threads. But with the longer bolt it's very easy and it pulls right on. The hardest part is getting the XX degrees after cinching it down. I used a breaker bar with my floor jack handle for more leverage.

Good luck, it's not hard.

 

Thank you all for your inputs!