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FYI, these may help out some, I am going to work on it some more today. these are not my pictures but they still should shed some light on the install however they still dont show how the wiper arm bracket support goes in. From the photo it looks like the wiper are linkage is removed and the metal bracket is cut in half.
I tried calling compcams today and speaking with a tech rep but they are not in until monday. Also according to various websites the item should have came with instructions and I tried calling the company where I bought it but they must be off on weekends.
Last edited by 71stang99; Jun 23, 2007 at 11:26 AM.
Also according to various websites the item should have came with instructions and I tried calling the company where I bought it but they must be off on weekends.
FAST has all of their instructions posted online. The instructions for this installation is not there. I searched everywhere and could not find any instructions for the 54030.
Well its done, the window brace block wasnt to bad once you figured out the shape of it is the same as the bracket cut in half. As I was told and now figured it out you need 4 1" washers the same diameter as the fuel rail hold down bolt as the fuel rails do not line up with the FAST.
I still have some cleanup to do but I did back it out of the garage.
Is there any particular items to watch for after the install? i.e. problem items before letting her rip?
Thanks to all that helped out, its most appreciated and if anyone has specific questions PM me.
Well its done, the window brace block wasnt to bad once you figured out the shape of it is the same as the bracket cut in half. As I was told and now figured it out you need 4 1" washers the same diameter as the fuel rail hold down bolt as the fuel rails do not line up with the FAST.
I still have some cleanup to do but I did back it out of the garage.
Is there any particular items to watch for after the install? i.e. problem items before letting her rip?
Thanks to all that helped out, its most appreciated and if anyone has specific questions PM me.
Glad to hear you got yours done. I cut out my hole today but I didn't do it from the top like the pics you posted, I did it all from under the hood. I took a ton of pics but haven't downloaded them onto the computer yet, I'll try to get it done by the morning.
It all went well, but I can see the size of the "hole" needed isn't that big...much smalled than the pics you showed. I cut the aluminium similar to what's shown in the pic you posted, it still seemd to be solid even after half of it had been removed, but to be sure I put JB Weld on both the bottom and the top to make sure it's still solid. That stuff is great!
Since I'm not as finished as you are, can you please explain what/how the 4 1" washers are used???
Hey Craig...saw your post the other day and your good wished now too...thanks. I will let you know all my thoughts once I get it all buttoned back up. Did Chuck tell you I'm heading down to his shop next Thursday afternoon?
In the service manual, it says that if you're going to remove the intake manifold that you should drain some of the coolant out of the system (at least that's how I read it).
Is that required? Or do you just get around it by being cautious, obeying certain rules/steps? Or it's not a concern at all?
I did the intake and thermostat at the same time so I do not think one affected the other. I will say the intake was all the way off without any coolant loss prior to the removal to the Tstat so in my opinion I would say no.
Also dont remove the hose, just the two bolts that connect the Tstat housing to the block, mind the tab on the Tstat gasket and once your done bleed the system of any air. (check DIC for coolant temperature)
Last edited by 71stang99; Jun 24, 2007 at 03:07 AM.
Glad to hear you got yours done. I cut out my hole today but I didn't do it from the top like the pics you posted, I did it all from under the hood. I took a ton of pics but haven't downloaded them onto the computer yet, I'll try to get it done by the morning.
It all went well, but I can see the size of the "hole" needed isn't that big...much smalled than the pics you showed. I cut the aluminium similar to what's shown in the pic you posted, it still seemd to be solid even after half of it had been removed, but to be sure I put JB Weld on both the bottom and the top to make sure it's still solid. That stuff is great!
Since I'm not as finished as you are, can you please explain what/how the 4 1" washers are used???
Hey Craig...saw your post the other day and your good wished now too...thanks. I will let you know all my thoughts once I get it all buttoned back up. Did Chuck tell you I'm heading down to his shop next Thursday afternoon?
I will try and post some pics in the AM, my good camera is not at home so they might be grainy. Also keep in mind the difference in the throttle body bolts, the factory intake came with the nuts already installed and i was told to buy 1/2 longer bolts/nuts to facilitate the install which was good advice.
In the service manual, it says that if you're going to remove the intake manifold that you should drain some of the coolant out of the system (at least that's how I read it).
Is that required? Or do you just get around it by being cautious, obeying certain rules/steps? Or it's not a concern at all?
thanks for the pics and info guys!
Removing the intake does not cause any concerns with the coolant, either the service manual is being over cautious or is wrong.
I will try and post some pics in the AM, my good camera is not at home so they might be grainy. Also keep in mind the difference in the throttle body bolts, the factory intake came with the nuts already installed and i was told to buy 1/2 longer bolts/nuts to facilitate the install which was good advice.
I had noticed the FAST did not have the nuts embedded for the TB body so I've already piked up longer bolts and locking nuts to go with them.
Now I'm just looking for a heads up on remounting the fuel rail. I already have the LS1 O rings for the injectors but not sure about what to look out for when it comes to getting the fuel rail onto the FAST?
Well....somebody has! That's why I posted this picture for you up a couple of posts.
I have the kit but haven't installed my FAST yet. The picture doesn't tell you much except to see where the part goes. It looks like they smeared a bunch of sealant around the hole when they put the part in there.
I think the block is to remount something that has to do with the windshield wipers. I'm hoping that once I open up the hole it will be fairly obvious how it goes in there and what it does.
Good luck, and I'll probably be getting ahold of you in a month or so when I get around to doing mine!
Bob
I'm not sure you will really need the firewall kit. I will try to post some pics soon, but from what I found out while doing mine is that kit is overkill for the size of the hole. I am going to take some advice from SpinMonster and cover my (smaller sized) hole with Dynamat.
As for the position of the hole, when I post some pics it will give you a better idea, but if I were doing it over, I would remove that screw seen if the pictures on the firewall, drill a new hole 1/4" - 3/8" of an inch above it and then re-install the screw into the new hole (the hole would have to be smalled than the screw so it will retap the hole as it goes into the aluminium bracket behind the firewall).
Then I would do my horizontal cut just north of the original screw hole. I think that is all you need for clearance once the FAST is mounted.
I will try to give some measurements for the horizontal cuts as well.
In the service manual, it says that if you're going to remove the intake manifold that you should drain some of the coolant out of the system (at least that's how I read it).
Is that required? Or do you just get around it by being cautious, obeying certain rules/steps? Or it's not a concern at all?
thanks for the pics and info guys!
Just another example of the Factory Service Manual being wrong. My '05 Helms says the same thing. It also says that you have to change t'stat housings when you change t'stats, doesn't mention the 18mm locking nut on the brake caliper pin and says you have to remove the front facia to change headlights. I'm sure there are other mistakes, those are just from my personal experience and from the info on this Forum.
Chevy needs to spend some time and $$ updating the service manuals instead of just copying from the previous year.
I had noticed the FAST did not have the nuts embedded for the TB body so I've already piked up longer bolts and locking nuts to go with them.
Now I'm just looking for a heads up on remounting the fuel rail. I already have the LS1 O rings for the injectors but not sure about what to look out for when it comes to getting the fuel rail onto the FAST?
The bolt holes on the fuel rails will not line up with the ones on the FAST, they solution told to me was to buy 1" washers, its not a pretty fix but you can reuse the ls2 intake fuel rail bolts and put them through the larger washers of will be big enough to make contact with the fuel rail hole tabs which secure it enough I suppose. If nothing else there is yet another kit for sale
The bolt holes on the fuel rails will not line up with the ones on the FAST, they solution told to me was to buy 1" washers, its not a pretty fix but you can reuse the ls2 intake fuel rail bolts and put them through the larger washers of will be big enough to make contact with the fuel rail hole tabs which secure it enough I suppose. If nothing else there is yet another kit for sale
Got it thanks!
Originally Posted by Abomination
What is that aluminum bar behind the firewall used for?