When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a flat on my front left tire and it tore right through the runflat so I cant drive on it. Luckily I was about 1 block away from my house when this happened so no big deal.
I have a tire being shipped to me and figured the easiest way to do this was to pull the tire off myself and take it somewhere to be mounted. Now the question.
Do I really need to go through the whole jacking procedures I see here, ie crossbeam under the car. Or can I get away with putting a puck in the front left spot and jacking the car up with my jack?
I saw the post of the guy who slipped and took out his door/fender/jamb and don't want to do the same thing but at the same time I'd rather not blow 2 hours and have to go buy the jack accessories to do it the other way.
I have a flat on my front left tire and it tore right through the runflat so I cant drive on it.
Where is the tear? I'd think that as long as the sidewalls are intact, you can drive on it, even if there is a tear in the tread area. If you're concerned, just drive slow. Even if the sidewall has a small tear on just one side, the support of the opposing sidewall may be enough to keep the rim far away from the pavement, at least at slow speeds... like if you just need to drive around the block to get home... or drive one mile to a service center.
Others have reported jacking from only one puck location with no problems. I personally would avoid it, but I suppose I'd do anything in an "emergency".
Also, if you jack carefully using secure pucks, on level ground, tires chocked, etc, etc, you should not have any problems slipping off the jack. In addition to having jacked using the crossbeams, I've also jacked from the puck locations (both fronts at once or both rears at once)... never a problem other than slight dimpling of the frame at the puck locations.
...can I get away with putting a puck in the front left spot and jacking the car up with my jack?
You can jack no problem at that spot....I do it all the time. The member who had is car slip off and take out 3 panels admitted he was over jacking the car, you only need the tire to lift an inch or two off the ground....you'll be fine!
Sure, you can lift the car from the oval frame slots (using jacking pucks) but it is not the 'preferred' method for obvious reasons...there are more risks. In addition to setting your parking brake, leaving the car in gear, etc. I'd use chock blocks and be sure to loosen the lug nuts before the car is in the air....you don't want to rock the car around so much it slips off the jack or jack stand.
Depending on what floor jack you use, you might have to drive up onto some boards to gain enough clearance to get the jack under the car. Make sure you have the proper size socket for the lug nuts. A torque wrench is also advisable (lug nuts get torqued to 100 lbs).
If you anticipate doing any work to your car, invest in a good quality floor jack, the cross-beam adaptor(s) and jack stands. I use a Craftsman 2-ton aluminum floor jack (about $200) and the Northern Tool adaptor beams were about $30 each. I also modified my floor jack per the Professor's DIY post.
Sure, you can lift the car from the oval frame slots (using jacking pucks) but it is not the 'preferred' method for obvious reasons...there are more risks. In addition to setting your parking brake, leaving the car in gear, etc. I'd use chock blocks and be sure to loosen the lug nuts before the car is in the air....you don't want to rock the car around so much it slips off the jack or jack stand.
Depending on what floor jack you use, you might have to drive up onto some boards to gain enough clearance to get the jack under the car. Make sure you have the proper size socket for the lug nuts. A torque wrench is also advisable (lug nuts get torqued to 100 lbs).
If you anticipate doing any work to your car, invest in a good quality floor jack, the cross-beam adaptor(s) and jack stands. I use a Craftsman 2-ton aluminum floor jack (about $200) and the Northern Tool adaptor beams were about $30 each. I also modified my floor jack per the Professor's DIY post.
I actually have all the tools needed to do it with exception of the crossbeam adapters I'm really just looking for a lazy way out . I have a few floor jacks and one is a low profile racing snapon one that would fit under anything.
I actually have all the tools needed to do it with exception of the crossbeam adapters I'm really just looking for a lazy way out . I have a few floor jacks and one is a low profile racing snapon one that would fit under anything.
Thanks for all the advice guys!
I have a 25 year old Craftsman floor jack that slides under either end of the car just fine. I have a small piece of 2 x 4 wood that I put on the jack and I jack up the front or back of the car in the center on one of the cross members. Then I put jack stands under the pucks.
Do I really need to go through the whole jacking procedures I see here, ie crossbeam under the car.
Absolutely not. Even the suggestion that this method is somehow "preferred" is odd... is it preferable to lift from the subframe using a floor jack rather than, say, lift from the edges with a 2-post lift?
Originally Posted by Abomination
Or can I get away with putting a puck in the front left spot and jacking the car up with my jack?
Yes. That's the way to do it.
Originally Posted by Abomination
I saw the post of the guy who slipped and took out his door/fender/jamb and don't want to do the same thing but at the same time I'd rather not blow 2 hours and have to go buy the jack accessories to do it the other way.
He had an accident. Make sure your jack placement is secure, insert jack stands for safety before you remove the wheel, and you should be fine.