How does one acomplish this w/the Gen III/IV engine? Or is it not necessary as it was in older engines w/ gear pumps?

Also, how important is it to use a new harmonic balancer bolt? This is on a 5.3 that probably never sees 5k RPM. Thanks.

-Tom

 

Use a new bolt.

Procedure I use on 4.6L Fords after putting them back together, should work fine on the Chebbie:

You can use a Moroso oil accumulator and hose it up to the oil pressure sender connection in place of the sender. I put a quart or so of oil in the accumulator then put air on the top Shraeder valve to blow the oil into the oil galleries and through the bearings. This will also pressure up the lifters. Do a couple of quarts this way, then rotate the engine one turn and do two more quarts. You can do all the oil this way if you want. Stop before you run the accumulator dry or you will just blow air into the galleries again. I put a 1/4 turn valve on the line so that I can shut it off and fill the accumulator again.

You can also make a fill tube out of 4" PVC, put 5 quarts of oil in it, put air on the top and pressure the oil in, stopping after every quart or two to turn the engine.

Did I mention use a new damper bolt?

Joe

 

Wow....what a proceedure.

What is the factory recommended proceedure? I can't find anything on Alldatapro.com that mentions priming the pump...

I heard you on the bolt. I guess it won't be done tonight.

 

The early C6 had a real problem with the crank bolt. I would make sure you get a new and correct one. Maybe buy it from the dealer to make sure. I can't imagine starting any new engine no matter what type of oil pump without priming it first.

 

No Way to prime the pump like on old school dist driven pump. The pressurized technique is the only way.

That is what they show in the 05 corvette GM shop manual.

tool needed: j45299 engine preluber. Its just like the accumulator described in the above post only this is hand pumped.

Here is what it says:
1: Fill new oil filter with clean oil.
2:install oil filter
3:Locate the engine block left front oil gallery plug.
4:install the m16x1.5 adapter
5:instal flexible hose from the j45299 to the adapter and open the valve
6:pump the handle on the j45299 in order to flow a minimum of 1-1.9 liters(1-2 quarts) engine oil. Observe the flow of engine oil through the flexible hose in to the engine assembly.
7:Close Valve and remove flexible hose and adapter from engine.
8: Install oil gallery plug to the engine.
Tighten the oil gallery plug top 44 lb ft.
9: top off the engine oil to the proper level.

That how to do it properly according to GM.

They go on to say in a different section to disable the ignition, Then turn over the engine untill oil pressure is verified. Then enable ignition and fire it up and watch oil pressure and temp.

 

The above is what Alldatapro.com says to do. I would prime it if there was an easy way, but buying/making tools for this job is not practical. I will loose money or the customer will. I'll fill the filter, and crank w/the FP relay out. Thanks for the input though. I'll save this thread and use it when I do something to my 'Vette.

 

For $5 or $6....buy a new stretch-to-yield bolt for your harmonic balancer. You cannot re-use your old bolt....it will fail over time. The new bolt must be torqued to 240 lbs I believe.

 

always use a new bolt.

was this a tear down or just an oil change?

for oil changes, i just prefill the filter, refill the crankcase, fire it up and let her idle for a bit.

for a tear down, priming is highly recommended.

 

If you didn't bleed down all the lifters, it's not quite as critical to pre-lube with the pressurizer. You can pull all the plugs, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank until you get oil pressure, put the plugs and fuse back in and have at it.

If the lifters (adjusters in the Ford) are dry, they will remain collapsed while cranking the engine until they fill up and remain extended. If the push rods remain in place, you will be OK. On the Ford DOHC engines, the cam followers can fall out of position when you crank the engine with collapsed lifters, which is why they must be prelubed statically before the engine is started. This is also why you rotate the engine carefully one revolution or so and pressure in another quart--to fill the adjusters that were on the lobes when the first quart went in.

You won't hurt the bearings or rings starting up the engine with the oil applied during assembly. Your risk without prelubing is really just having a pushrod jump out of position. If that doesn't happen, you are OK, and that won't happen unless the lifters are dry. Once the lifters are full, however you accomplish it--prelube or crank, you are OK as long as the pushrods are all still in place.

I will always pressure prime an engine myself, since I have the stuff to do it, but there have been thousands of these engine started without pressure priming them, so I bet you will be OK too, especially if the lifters still have oil in them.

Joe

 

Thanks. That is what I was looking for. This is after an oil pump, pan and pick-up tube R&R. Read about it here...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1746856