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*The Official Trailering Your Vette Thread*

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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 07:05 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ProgGod
I am getting an enclosed trailer like that one. Where did you get those ramps? Are they needed to keep bottom from scrapping, and where do you put them while you tow?
The ramps are Pitproducts 5' ramps. They are bolted and fold back on to the big trailer ramp which I then strap down. This keeps them from banging and hitting the back of the Vette when moving.



Also have three 3" x 6" rubber bumpers on the out side top of the door. You can see them on the rear door photo.

When I get ready to drive the car onto the ramps, fist I jack the trailer up with the trailer tongue jack as high as it will go. This lowers the rear down.

I have less then 1/4" of clearance under the front splitter and the edge of the wood ramp. Needless to say, I do need someone to guide me into the trailer.

Of dont forget to fold the mirrors in. and I crawl out the drivers window.

More Trailer Pics

I also carry extra boards with me. two 2'x4'x2" - two 2'x2'x2" - some assorted 2"x4" of short lengths - several 2'x2'x2" to put under the trailer tongue, and several wheel chalks. All these different boards are to put under the trailer wheels as needed. The place you want to unload is never level.

Here are some inside pics




Last edited by AU N EGL; Sep 9, 2007 at 07:29 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 12:00 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
The ramps are Pitproducts 5' ramps. They are bolted and fold back on to the big trailer ramp which I then strap down. This keeps them from banging and hitting the back of the Vette when moving.



Also have three 3" x 6" rubber bumpers on the out side top of the door. You can see them on the rear door photo.

When I get ready to drive the car onto the ramps, fist I jack the trailer up with the trailer tongue jack as high as it will go. This lowers the rear down.

I have less then 1/4" of clearance under the front splitter and the edge of the wood ramp. Needless to say, I do need someone to guide me into the trailer.

Of dont forget to fold the mirrors in. and I crawl out the drivers window.

More Trailer Pics

I also carry extra boards with me. two 2'x4'x2" - two 2'x2'x2" - some assorted 2"x4" of short lengths - several 2'x2'x2" to put under the trailer tongue, and several wheel chalks. All these different boards are to put under the trailer wheels as needed. The place you want to unload is never level.

Here are some inside pics



http://pitproducts.com/trdoexra.html

how about that one, would it not work as well?


Also where did you get the tire rack from?
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ProgGod
http://pitproducts.com/trdoexra.html

how about that one, would it not work as well?


Also where did you get the tire rack from?
It would work too.

This is the one I have http://pitproducts.com/assistramps.html

I guess they are 6 foot ramps. so with door about 12' of ramp

The tire rack is also a pit products 5 footer
http://pitproducts.com/defotira.html



Four car tires and one trailer spare tire

Last edited by AU N EGL; Sep 9, 2007 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 02:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ProgGod
http://pitproducts.com/trdoexra.html

how about that one, would it not work as well?


Also where did you get the tire rack from?
OK last question i think, where do i get those yellow things so you know when your in the trailer the right depth
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ProgGod
OK last question i think, where do i get those yellow things so you know when your in the trailer the right depth
You mean the garage floor stops? I think I got those at Northern Tool.

Dont put those in permently. You really wont know where your car will sit in the trailer until you try it a few times. Plus all the other junk you put in.

My trailer is a Pace Pursuit 24 foot enclosed. It came bare wood walls and floor. I primed the walls and painted them exterior white and used garage floor epoxy on the deck.

It has two 5,000 axles with electric brakes on each axle.
I use a 1500HD Silverado as a tow vehicle. This is bearly enough. a 2500 or better would be a better choice.
- make sure your tow vehicle has a BIG trans cooler for towing.
-change your tow vehicle's trans and diff fluids at least once a year. Bleed your tow vehicle's brakes often. I do it every 6 months, or before any tow longer then 6 hours.
-run 2psi less air pressure in the front two trailer tires then the rear two.
- torque your trailers wheels each time you pull the trailer
-check your lights and brakes BEFORE you drive any place.
-Use a weight distribution / anti-sway hitch .
- Don't plan on driving faster then 60 mph unless your have a 2500 or 3500 diesel tow pick up.
- when big semis pass you they will suck you close to them, be careful.
- it takes three times as long to stop your pick-up when you have a loaded trailer then normally.
- carry two spare trailer tires, they blow out in pairs. Mostly from the right side wheels going off the pavement and BANG BANG.
- have a jack that can lift the trailer side with a car in side. small round piston jack that can lift 12,000 lbs will do

Last edited by AU N EGL; Sep 9, 2007 at 03:34 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 03:38 PM
  #26  
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Use t-hooks ( northern tool) and 5,000 lb ratchet race car tie downs





the t-hooks go into the jacking puck hole in the frame. Never use the suspension to tie the car down.

use an x pattern

Left front tie down to right front jacking puck hole
right front tie down to left front jacking puck hole



same for rear

Last edited by AU N EGL; Sep 9, 2007 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 05:25 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
You mean the garage floor stops? I think I got those at Northern Tool.

Dont put those in permently. You really wont know where your car will sit in the trailer until you try it a few times. Plus all the other junk you put in.

My trailer is a Pace Pursuit 24 foot enclosed. It came bare wood walls and floor. I primed the walls and painted them exterior white and used garage floor epoxy on the deck.

It has two 5,000 axles with electric brakes on each axle.
I use a 1500HD Silverado as a tow vehicle. This is bearly enough. a 2500 or better would be a better choice.
- make sure your tow vehicle has a BIG trans cooler for towing.
-change your tow vehicle's trans and diff fluids at least once a year. Bleed your tow vehicle's brakes often. I do it every 6 months, or before any tow longer then 6 hours.
-run 2psi less air pressure in the front two trailer tires then the rear two.
- torque your trailers wheels each time you pull the trailer
-check your lights and brakes BEFORE you drive any place.
-Use a weight distribution / anti-sway hitch .
- Don't plan on driving faster then 60 mph unless your have a 2500 or 3500 diesel tow pick up.
- when big semis pass you they will suck you close to them, be careful.
- it takes three times as long to stop your pick-up when you have a loaded trailer then normally.
- carry two spare trailer tires, they blow out in pairs. Mostly from the right side wheels going off the pavement and BANG BANG.
- have a jack that can lift the trailer side with a car in side. small round piston jack that can lift 12,000 lbs will do

Hmm well i have an expedition thats suppose to tow 9000lbs. Is that going to be able to pull my 24" enclosed with the car in it?

Would it be better off if I supercharge it?
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ProgGod
Hmm well i have an expedition thats suppose to tow 9000lbs. Is that going to be able to pull my 24" enclosed with the car in it?

Would it be better off if I supercharge it?
You will be ok. Just dont go too fast. HP & TQ is only part of the tow package, suspension, brakes, Do you have a transmission cooler / tow package on your Expedition?
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 06:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
You will be ok. Just dont go too fast. HP & TQ is only part of the tow package, suspension, brakes, Do you have a transmission cooler / tow package on your Expedition?
I have the tow package, so I am assuming thats included. Although I will have to look into it to see for sure. Will a supercharger help with towing, or hurt my ability to tow?


I have the autoleveling suspension, etc made for towing. So my suspension shoul dbe fine, brakes seem pretty good sized.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 06:20 PM
  #30  
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The extra HP wont hurt at all with the SC.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 07:42 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
The extra HP wont hurt at all with the SC.
Now if I can just figure out a way to S/C this thing
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ProgGod
Now if I can just figure out a way to S/C this thing
The Excursion or your Vette?
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 12:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
The Excursion or your Vette?
The expedition, the vettes easy.

No one makes a kit for the expedition.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:21 PM
  #34  
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This has been interesting. When I thought of towing my C6, I figured that the car should be winched into the trailer. You could keep an eye on the wheel wells not touching the car, no accidental lurching when you let out the clutch, you wont scratch the car up climbing out the window. Does anyone use a winch for loading?
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 07:59 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Duallyvette
This has been interesting. When I thought of towing my C6, I figured that the car should be winched into the trailer. You could keep an eye on the wheel wells not touching the car, no accidental lurching when you let out the clutch, you wont scratch the car up climbing out the window. Does anyone use a winch for loading?
For race cars with Tilton 5" or Quartermain 5"clutches yes. They attach the the winch to the front tow hook. Not sure where you would attach the the winch cable to a stock C6?

In the three years I have been driving the car into and backing out of the trailer, scratching the paint crawling in and out of the car had never been an issue. I am 6-2 and 195 lbs. and do not ware a wedding ring or a watch, nor a belt buckle. Just wipe off the finger prints on the roof.

PPL that ding up their drivers doors are the guys trying to open the drivers door to get out. Even if the trailer has an escape door.

Last edited by AU N EGL; Sep 12, 2007 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 11:34 AM
  #36  
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For the people that asked about my trailer and tire rack I posted pictures and dimensions here

http://www.ecsracing.com/ecsracing/showthread.php?t=285

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