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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:28 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
I have a G5x3 and full boltons. While I've yet to wring it out on the track with the mods (times below are bolt on only) There is no way I will be running low 11's or even high 10's like Ranger and Robz can do with their stock Z's with drag radials.

What's more, I don't think they could out run a Z in my car either. That low end torque of the Z does wonders for the 1/4 mile times.

I ran 11.81 with gears and full boltons, which was a record for MZ6 trans at one time. Having driven my cammed car now, I bet I'm only going to run 11.5 on a great day. Stock Z's with a sharp driver and drag radials can run lower than that all day long.

If someone sends me a stock Z .drf dyno file I'll overlay it to my car's below. The Z's have more torque below 4k and that makes a huge difference.

You meant Dr.Ron, but since he's a buddy of mine he probably wouldn't mind me taking credit for his passes.

I don't see why cam only c6's can't run very low 11's with a good set of drag radials.
I also think we should be seeing more H/C ls2 or ls3's running mid-high tens.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:39 AM
  #62  
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Rob your right i cant understand why their not
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:45 AM
  #63  
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I thought an ls3 car (the callaway car) did run 11.5X with cai and dr only. Alot of people seemed to doubt that, although I for one thought it was probably legit. Why wouldn't it be? The stock ls3 is putting down around 65 rwhp less than a stock c6z....stock c6z plus dr's is pretty much an 11.0 car (rangers 10.85 is crazy low)...callaway does it with cai (maybe add 10)....looks perfectly in line for a great launch and great pass.

the ls3 car will have trouble on the 285 runflats, but once it has shoes, a good driver ought to be able to pull outstanding times
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:51 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by BLU-BY-U
I thought an ls3 car (the callaway car) did run 11.5X with cai and dr only. Alot of people seemed to doubt that, although I for one thought it was probably legit. Why wouldn't it be? The stock ls3 is putting down around 65 rwhp less than a stock c6z....stock c6z plus dr's is pretty much an 11.0 car (rangers 10.85 is crazy low)...callaway does it with cai (maybe add 10)....looks perfectly in line for a great launch and great pass.

the ls3 car will have trouble on the 285 runflats, but once it has shoes, a good driver ought to be able to pull outstanding times
it did and was stock except honker and et streets. i believe it
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 12:11 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
I have a G5x3 and full boltons. While I've yet to wring it out on the track with the mods (times below are bolt on only) There is no way I will be running low 11's or even high 10's like Ranger and Robz can do with their stock Z's with drag radials.

What's more, I don't think they could out run a Z in my car either. That low end torque of the Z does wonders for the 1/4 mile times.

I ran 11.81 with gears and full boltons, which was a record for MZ6 trans at one time. Having driven my cammed car now, I bet I'm only going to run 11.5 on a great day. Stock Z's with a sharp driver and drag radials can run lower than that all day long.

If someone sends me a stock Z .drf dyno file I'll overlay it to my car's below. The Z's have more torque below 4k and that makes a huge difference.

I think an LS3 can but so far we dont have someone who has done it with drag radials

I have an LS3 with LG's, Vararam, and LG Tune and my numbers are as follows

422.6 RWHP 424.7 RWTRQ on a dynojet

will post up the dyno if anyone is in doubt

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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 07:22 PM
  #66  
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well guys
i think the best thing that i can do ,, without spending money is buying a Procharger and Run it With 8 psi
and i think that is the best Soloution !
better then adding and adding and adding and then at the end ! the Zo6 is faster
but do i need to change my Chumber ? or keep it as the gm one ?
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #67  
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I'd say a procharger would certainly do the trick! Post the dyno results when you get done!
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by vvette_c6
well guys
i think the best thing that i can do ,, without spending money is buying a Procharger and Run it With 8 psi
and i think that is the best Soloution !
better then adding and adding and adding and then at the end ! the Zo6 is faster
but do i need to change my Chumber ? or keep it as the gm one ?
What is a Chumber? Are you talking about the cam?

I also recently talked to my tuner about adding more cubic inches to my motor which was going to cost about the same as what you will be paying for the procharger. He was talking about stroking a LS3 out to 416 cubic inches. With everything he said the project woud be in the range of $8K to $10K price range with 500 - 525 RWHP and lots of low end torque. If you are still looking at a naturally aspirated engine, this may still be an option. Im sure this would give a Z06 a run for the money!

The Procharger sounds like a lot of fun as well. Please keep us posted as to what you decide to do with your mods...Kevin
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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A C5Z or a C6 are the same engine wise. Doing all of the bolt ons without touching the bottom end will not make up for the weight of a C6Z, or the titanium bottom end that is so light the engine revs like an electric motor. No- one has mentioned this.

My Z is a modded with bolt-ons only. LPE conservative cam package. No head work or bottom end work.
525RWHp.
I have laid waste to turbo charged c6's withh 600RWHP. Procharged C5z's with 620RWHP. I was beat, not by much by a C6 with a 403 forged bottom end, with a procharger and Methyl kit. He's making nearly 700 RWHP. Now that was a race.

You see, the C6's need considerably more HP than just matching #'s on the dyno to match the RAW power of this fast reving 427. Trust me this engine is .. Build a forged 427. The heavier rods and pistons won't rev like this engine. This is the ultimate NA motor IMO ever built.

Although with the forged components a 250 shot could also be an option.
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 10:26 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by qatarpilot
I think an LS3 can but so far we dont have someone who has done it with drag radials

I have an LS3 with LG's, Vararam, and LG Tune and my numbers are as follows

422.6 RWHP 424.7 RWTRQ on a dynojet

will post up the dyno if anyone is in doubt

I have the same mods about the same result!
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 10:32 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by American Power
A C5Z or a C6 are the same engine wise. Doing all of the bolt ons without touching the bottom end will not make up for the weight of a C6Z, or the titanium bottom end that is so light the engine revs like an electric motor. No- one has mentioned this.My Z is a modded with bolt-ons only. LPE conservative cam package. No head work or bottom end work.
525RWHp.

I have laid waste to turbo charged c6's withh 600RWHP. Procharged C5z's with 620RWHP. I was beat, not by much by a C6 with a 403 forged bottom end, with a procharger and Methyl kit. He's making nearly 700 RWHP. Now that was a race.

You see, the C6's need considerably more HP than just matching #'s on the dyno to match the RAW power of this fast reving 427. Trust me this engine is .. Build a forged 427. The heavier rods and pistons won't rev like this engine. This is the ultimate NA motor IMO ever built.

Although with the forged components a 250 shot could also be an option.
Sso you're trying to say it takes 700 rwhp on a C6 to beat a C6z06 with 525rwhp? Right. Personally I will be going with an ls2 427.

"I have laid waste to turbo charged c6's withh 600RWHP. Procharged C5z's with 620RWHP" I don't see it =/
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 12:30 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Tavarez
Sso you're trying to say it takes 700 rwhp on a C6 to beat a C6z06 with 525rwhp? Right. Personally I will be going with an ls2 427.

"I have laid waste to turbo charged c6's withh 600RWHP. Procharged C5z's with 620RWHP" I don't see it =/
i do...people do not know how to drive and they do not know how to redline an engine and shift it properly. the driver is 80 percent of the win not the car
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 02:05 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by American Power
A C5Z or a C6 are the same engine wise. Doing all of the bolt ons without touching the bottom end will not make up for the weight of a C6Z, or the titanium bottom end that is so light the engine revs like an electric motor. No- one has mentioned this.

My Z is a modded with bolt-ons only. LPE conservative cam package. No head work or bottom end work.
525RWHp.
I have laid waste to turbo charged c6's withh 600RWHP. Procharged C5z's with 620RWHP. I was beat, not by much by a C6 with a 403 forged bottom end, with a procharger and Methyl kit. He's making nearly 700 RWHP. Now that was a race.

You see, the C6's need considerably more HP than just matching #'s on the dyno to match the RAW power of this fast reving 427. Trust me this engine is .. Build a forged 427. The heavier rods and pistons won't rev like this engine. This is the ultimate NA motor IMO ever built.

Although with the forged components a 250 shot could also be an option.

Peak horsepower doesn't tell the whole story. Power under the curve, weight to power ratio, and ability to rev quickly all add up. Lightweight rotating assemblies/pistons are hard to catch. They "doth not suffer ill tunes or fools." Especially without adequate octane or tuning. I personally would prefer forged internals as you never know when you'll get bad gas and/or detonation, but that's me.

San
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 08:39 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Kevinmatt
What is a Chumber? Are you talking about the cam?

I also recently talked to my tuner about adding more cubic inches to my motor which was going to cost about the same as what you will be paying for the procharger. He was talking about stroking a LS3 out to 416 cubic inches. With everything he said the project woud be in the range of $8K to $10K price range with 500 - 525 RWHP and lots of low end torque. If you are still looking at a naturally aspirated engine, this may still be an option. Im sure this would give a Z06 a run for the money!

The Procharger sounds like a lot of fun as well. Please keep us posted as to what you decide to do with your mods...Kevin
well kevin
sorry i mean chumber = intake

i will post my dyno after i finish my car
because i have a problem which is no one know about it !
you can help me so i can take my car to dyno jet and post the numbers
,,, i will write my problem so everybody can read

i changed my Clutch master ( the Down clutch pump ) 3 times !
everytime i change it ! i use the car for about 2 weeks ,,, a little racing ! then Boooooooooooooombs ,,, no oil in the clutch and the pedal goes fully down and i cant use the clutch at all ! i took it to the Gm dealer in my country so they change the clutch pump ,, they change it but still the same ,, so if any body of you guys can help me with that i will be very greatfull !!
otherwise ! i will sell my car and buy a camaro ,, or C5 cuz really ! this car has pissed me off !! i am sending it to the garage more then driving it !
cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeRS !

and really hope i post the dyno in the next few days !
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by vvette_c6
well kevin
sorry i mean chumber = intake

i will post my dyno after i finish my car
because i have a problem which is no one know about it !
you can help me so i can take my car to dyno jet and post the numbers
,,, i will write my problem so everybody can read

i changed my Clutch master ( the Down clutch pump ) 3 times !
everytime i change it ! i use the car for about 2 weeks ,,, a little racing ! then Boooooooooooooombs ,,, no oil in the clutch and the pedal goes fully down and i cant use the clutch at all ! i took it to the Gm dealer in my country so they change the clutch pump ,, they change it but still the same ,, so if any body of you guys can help me with that i will be very greatfull !!
otherwise ! i will sell my car and buy a camaro ,, or C5 cuz really ! this car has pissed me off !! i am sending it to the garage more then driving it !
cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeRS !

and really hope i post the dyno in the next few days !
I have stock heads and my tuner along with my forum friends recommended to me to change my intake manifold to a FAST like the one you posted. It does give you added power across the entire RPM band. So yes that is a good mod. Just make sure that your heads will work with a FAST.

Sorry to hear about your clutch issues. You may want to start a separate thread post about this topic.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 11:03 AM
  #76  
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bolt on/ natrually aspirated setup for C6 to beat z06 in a straight line/track


Intake/TB spacer
Long Tube Header/catless x-pipe/mufflers
aggressive cam/ported head
dyno tuned
big brakes/sway/wheels/tires


for the price.. maybe you should just buy a factory z06, lol
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 11:36 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by rustyguns
i do...people do not know how to drive and they do not know how to redline an engine and shift it properly. the driver is 80 percent of the win not the car
So you say that it takes more than 600 RWHP in a C6 to even keep up with you @525 rwhp and than you say that its 80% driver and that people dont know how to drive.???? WTF!!!..
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 03:49 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
Here's me in my Vert (before cam) vs a Z.

In this case, the Z driver was new to the car. I've got a few runs under my belt. But watch him run me down. Equal drivers, even now with my Cam and 436 rwhp, that Z is gonna whoop my modded C6. The driver makes a huge difference in these high powered, hard to launch cars. But you need heads + cam to give a stock Z a run for their money, and you better be a sharp driver.

A cam alone won't do it. I would love to see the LS3 with the full package running through the 1/4 mile. Maybe a slight edge over a stock C6 Z06?
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 04:04 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by joegengsta
bolt on/ natrually aspirated setup for C6 to beat z06 in a straight line/track


Intake/TB spacer
Long Tube Header/catless x-pipe/mufflers
aggressive cam/ported head
dyno tuned
big brakes/sway/wheels/tires


for the price.. maybe you should just buy a factory z06, lol
In my case I wanted to be as powerful as a STOCK Z06 instead of the original thread's poster desire to be more powerful.

The dealer wanted my 2006 C6 + $42,000 for a Z06. I thought I could do a few engines mods for about 1/4 of thet cost and boost HP substantially.

I have all the mods you have listed with the exception of ported heads and I am $6,300 into my engine project. I'm wondering if heads will make up the difference in low end torque where I fall short when compared to the LS7? I'm at 446 RWHP and 404 RWTQ. If the LS2 cannot be built to be comparable to the LS7, I wonder why we do not see more LS7 engine transplants? It appears some members posts in this thread it is believed that no matter what you do do to your LS2 including stroking it, you will never reach the power of the LS7. I do not quite understand that.

Does GM sell the LS7 short block and if so how much does it cost? I have only seen the LS7 Crate engine for $12,500. I'm not sure I want to sink over $3K into heads with installation if I am still falling short of my goals. I'm think my next mod will be more in the area of adding cubes maybe 427...
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock'n Blue 08
an 08 with headers, cam and intake will pull stock Z period!
Call it even.
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