I know the torque value is 240, but what tips are there for removal and install? I am concerned about not getting enough threads into the crank when I start to reinstall.

 

240 is what you torque the old bolt to in order to seat it. You install a new bolt ad TQ it to 37 ft lbs and then 140 degrees. Unless you have an arp which isnt stretch to yeild.

Quick tip: After the 37 degrees put a line (black marker) on the bolt pointing to 12 o'clock. Use that to guage the number of degrees if you dont have that type of tq wrench.

 

Do a search in the C-5 tech section. Lots of posts there. The procedure is the same for the C-6.

 

Just 240# is and invitation to trouble.

 

There was a service bulltetine out some time ago that was addressing the crank bolt coming loose and the balancer spinning off. GMs solution is to replace the POA friction washer behind the balancer and replace the crank bolt with a new bolt, and apply a liberal amount of loctite 272 to the bolt threads. You won't have to replace the POA washer but I would definitely apply loctite to the threads for added insurance.

 

Does this issue apply on the 08 LS3? This happened to me on a Viper and it made a royal mess. Come to find out, most Vipers were leaving the factory not torqued to the required 250 ft/lbs.

 

The bulletine was for 2005 and early 06 cars. But I can tell you that every cam job I do, I replace the POA washer (cheap insurance) and I apply high temp red loctite to the threads on the crank bolt before I torque it to the required specs. The red loctite I use is not the normal red stuff you buy at the local auto parts store, it is the high temp variant that is a creamy red consisitency instead of the translucent and running standard red loctite. Once it sets up it takes a strong impact gun to bust it loose, and that is using the GM special tool that locks the flywheel down, if its not locked down, and if you use the "put'er in 6th gear and hold the brake method", you will still get some movement in the crank and its going to be hard to break loose unless you can get at least a 3 foot cheater bar on the wrench

 

Do not use the bolt to install the balancer! If you strip the threads in the crank, you'll have a real mess on your hands. Go to the hardware store and get some all thread rod, big washers, and a nut to make a home made balancer installer. Cut the all thread to size and thread it all the way into the crank snout then use the nut to install the balancer. That way, if you mess up any threads, it'll be the all thread and you just throw it away and cut a new piece.

Also, if you don't have a manual transmission, the "put 'er in 6th" isn't an option. If you don't have the special tool (which I didn't), there is a trick that works like a charm. I wrap the accessory belt 360 degrees around the crank pulley and then fold it back over itself in the clockwise direction for removing the bolt and counterclockwise for installing the bolt. I then "hook" the other end on to something strong and rotate the crank until all the slack is out. The belt acts like a strap wrench and holds the crank...the more you torque, the harder it holds, even when you put a 3' cheater bar on it to break one loose that's been loctited with the red stuff. Works like a charm!

 

Unless you have a REAL GOOD hardware store, they won't have the metric all-thread required to make the assembly tool suggested. But Mcmaster-Carr does.

 

I don't know how far you have the car apart, but I recommend putting a pin in the crank. I had my balancer come off 3 times, twice from the factory and once after a cam install. I got sick to death of worrying about it and pinned it. With the pin I can use my big impact to torque it and after many thrashings and rebuilds it has never come off.

The reason the thing loosens in the first place is the balancer moving on the crank. With it pinned, its not an issue. I also use loctite as a precaution.

 

I got it from Ace Hardware, no problems.

 

As I learned this the hard way..................

 

Off to Ace Hardware! I will bring my new bolt with me to match.
Also, will ensure I get the correct Locktite.

Thanks for all your time and advise.

rick

 

The proper tool for locking the flywheel is a Kent-Moore "flywheel holding fixture," pn J42386-A you can get it from www.etoolcart.com or they have em on Ebay Motors, just search GM special tools.

 

Good info. But for $81.25 plus $9.95 shipping plus tax (possibly), I'll keep using my belt trick on the balancer/pulley. It's a lot easier/quicker to install too.

 

Did you get the parts and do the install?

 

It appears in this thread he has the balancer back on:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1898762
Looks like he had no problem finding the metric all thread either...much cheaper and quicker to get than the "special tool". And he's passing on what he didn't use to anybody that wants it. Now that's helping out a Corvette brother.

 

Actually, the process is mid way with the balancer being the last item to remove.

But yes, I have extra threaded rod - had to go to a place in Tampa that specializes in fasteners as Ace did not stock locally.