Oil change
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: Diamond Bar ca
Oil change
I am planning to change my own oil. I just bought the jacking puck from Elite Engineering after search many opinions from the forum.
I am planning to jack my car from the shipping pt on the driver side, then open the plug and filter without lowering the Jack to let the oil drain. Is this ok or do I need to lower the jack to let all the oil drain?
I am going to use Mobil Synthetic per the manual, is there any benefit in using oil such as Amsoil or Purple oil or redline? My Vette is only use about 5,000 Miles per year, and I am planning to change the oil every 6 months (no track use)
Thanks for your input
I am planning to jack my car from the shipping pt on the driver side, then open the plug and filter without lowering the Jack to let the oil drain. Is this ok or do I need to lower the jack to let all the oil drain?
I am going to use Mobil Synthetic per the manual, is there any benefit in using oil such as Amsoil or Purple oil or redline? My Vette is only use about 5,000 Miles per year, and I am planning to change the oil every 6 months (no track use)
Thanks for your input
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 6
From: Montreal Qc
If it was me, I would prefer the car was level from side to side, I think your idea will leave quite a bit of oil in the oil pan.
Are you planning to work under the car while it's on the jack or do you have axle stands? Do not work under the car only on a jack! If you do have axle stands, jack up the passenger side first, put it on a stand then jack up the drivers side and put it on the stand, be sure to leave the car in park (auto) or first gear (if it's a stick) and apply the parking brake.
Or get some ramps and drive the car onto those. As a last resort, I have (many years ago) driven the passenger side up onto a sidewalk curb then jacked up the drivers side, but you still need to support the car on something other than just a jack.
Are you planning to work under the car while it's on the jack or do you have axle stands? Do not work under the car only on a jack! If you do have axle stands, jack up the passenger side first, put it on a stand then jack up the drivers side and put it on the stand, be sure to leave the car in park (auto) or first gear (if it's a stick) and apply the parking brake.
Or get some ramps and drive the car onto those. As a last resort, I have (many years ago) driven the passenger side up onto a sidewalk curb then jacked up the drivers side, but you still need to support the car on something other than just a jack.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 10,057
Likes: 266
From: Slower than a speeding bullet................ Fort Lauderdale, FL
Read your owner's manual for details.
Changing the oil:
I drive mine up on some 2x12's which allows me to reach under the car to remove filter and nut. I then jack up the rear to level the car and drain the oil. I don't recommend leaving it jacked on one side.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 18
From: Missouri City Texas
After the front is jacked up and the oil is draining SLOWLY lower it down so that it becomes more level and the oil runs out almost entirely from the pan. This by no means is necessary...but it WILL get a little extra oil out...but you would be fine not doing that also.
Just be sure to watch while you are lowering it so you dont lower it too much and crush what you're letting your oil out into (I can lower mine entirely without touching the pan)
Just be sure to watch while you are lowering it so you dont lower it too much and crush what you're letting your oil out into (I can lower mine entirely without touching the pan)
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 2
From: Dallas Tx
Jacking pucks are for hoists.
The jacking points for a floor jack are the front and rear crossmember.
Jack the front up, set tires on ramps. Jack the rear up, leave the jack under the rear crossmember, jackstands under the back suspension just in case. Drain the oil and change the filter, car is now level and up in the air.
Numerous people have posted pictures of vettes that have fallen off jacks/pucks trying to jack just one corner. It'll rip the heck out of the side of the car. Do it the right way, crossmembers.
The jacking points for a floor jack are the front and rear crossmember.
Jack the front up, set tires on ramps. Jack the rear up, leave the jack under the rear crossmember, jackstands under the back suspension just in case. Drain the oil and change the filter, car is now level and up in the air.
Numerous people have posted pictures of vettes that have fallen off jacks/pucks trying to jack just one corner. It'll rip the heck out of the side of the car. Do it the right way, crossmembers.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 2
From: Baltimore MD
St. Jude Donor '08
We are using synthetic oil. There is no need to change it every 6 months with that kind of mileage. I change mine once a year.
Read your owner's manual for details.
Changing the oil:
I drive mine up on some 2x12's which allows me to reach under the car to remove filter and nut. I then jack up the rear to level the car and drain the oil. I don't recommend leaving it jacked on one side.
Read your owner's manual for details.
Changing the oil:
I drive mine up on some 2x12's which allows me to reach under the car to remove filter and nut. I then jack up the rear to level the car and drain the oil. I don't recommend leaving it jacked on one side.
Mine sees about 3-4k miles per year so changing the oil is an annual fall event. Easy to remember that way!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 8,205
Likes: 40
From: Tucson AZ
We are using synthetic oil. There is no need to change it every 6 months with that kind of mileage. I change mine once a year.
Read your owner's manual for details.
Changing the oil:
I drive mine up on some 2x12's which allows me to reach under the car to remove filter and nut. I then jack up the rear to level the car and drain the oil. I don't recommend leaving it jacked on one side.
Read your owner's manual for details.
Changing the oil:
I drive mine up on some 2x12's which allows me to reach under the car to remove filter and nut. I then jack up the rear to level the car and drain the oil. I don't recommend leaving it jacked on one side.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 18
From: Missouri City Texas
Yeah, it's just hard to get the jack under there unless your jack is REALLY slim.
In your manual it'll show the "approved" points to lift the car....but there are several places on the cross member that are fine.
In your manual it'll show the "approved" points to lift the car....but there are several places on the cross member that are fine.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 2
From: Dallas Tx
Easiest way to see it is drive up onto some boards. I use 2 peices of
2x12s screwed together. Bevel the front edges, make the bottom board longer. This will also make it easier to get the floor jack under the air dam.
Now looking under there, you will see two front crossmembers. The second one back is the one you want to use for lifting. It's bigger/wider than the front one. If you drew a line between the front wheel hub centers, it's the crossmember behind that line. It's aluminum and has honeycomb bracing in between solid sides. I put some towels on the jack pad to cushion it a bit, make sure one of the jack pad tangs is locked in behind the crossmember so it can't slip off. Be careful not to hit the oil pan with the jack. E-brake on.
I then set the front tires down on Rhino ramps, I never drive up or down them, just use them as a stand.
The rear only has one crossmember, looks the same as the front - aluminum with a honeycomb center, suspension A-arms mount to it.
I raise the rear just to level the pan, and leave the jack under there while I'm under the front.
2x12s screwed together. Bevel the front edges, make the bottom board longer. This will also make it easier to get the floor jack under the air dam.
Now looking under there, you will see two front crossmembers. The second one back is the one you want to use for lifting. It's bigger/wider than the front one. If you drew a line between the front wheel hub centers, it's the crossmember behind that line. It's aluminum and has honeycomb bracing in between solid sides. I put some towels on the jack pad to cushion it a bit, make sure one of the jack pad tangs is locked in behind the crossmember so it can't slip off. Be careful not to hit the oil pan with the jack. E-brake on.
I then set the front tires down on Rhino ramps, I never drive up or down them, just use them as a stand.
The rear only has one crossmember, looks the same as the front - aluminum with a honeycomb center, suspension A-arms mount to it.
I raise the rear just to level the pan, and leave the jack under there while I'm under the front.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 11
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Just did that for my neighbour a week ago.
Bought an aluminum racing jack at pepboys and their lightweight aluminum jackstands.
Costco sells the jack too:
$89.99. It is SUPER strong (3000lbs), lifts up to 15 inches, puts away in a small box, is light, and, most importantly, fits underneath a Corvette
The anodized aluminum jackstands are $50 each. Again, super light, strong (3TONS each) and they will hold your car 16" off the ground; high enough for a header install:
I jacked the front up by the front engine crossmember; it is easy and safe with that massive pad in front of the jack. I then put the crossmember on jackstands, removed the oil pan bolt, let it drain on a big pan, removed the filter, let the oil drain out from the filter hole, filled up a new filter with oil (VERY IMPORTANT so your car doesn't start up oil starved as it fills up the new filter with oil), put the plug back in, set the car down and refilled it with Castrol Syntec, a much better oil than Mobil 1.
On my personal vehicles it is Royal Purple only, or Castrol Syntec if I can't get RP. I don't intend on ever running Mobil 1 again; it is an OK oil for a daily driver but not something I would take a car to the track with.
Bought an aluminum racing jack at pepboys and their lightweight aluminum jackstands.
Costco sells the jack too:
$89.99. It is SUPER strong (3000lbs), lifts up to 15 inches, puts away in a small box, is light, and, most importantly, fits underneath a Corvette
The anodized aluminum jackstands are $50 each. Again, super light, strong (3TONS each) and they will hold your car 16" off the ground; high enough for a header install:
I jacked the front up by the front engine crossmember; it is easy and safe with that massive pad in front of the jack. I then put the crossmember on jackstands, removed the oil pan bolt, let it drain on a big pan, removed the filter, let the oil drain out from the filter hole, filled up a new filter with oil (VERY IMPORTANT so your car doesn't start up oil starved as it fills up the new filter with oil), put the plug back in, set the car down and refilled it with Castrol Syntec, a much better oil than Mobil 1.
On my personal vehicles it is Royal Purple only, or Castrol Syntec if I can't get RP. I don't intend on ever running Mobil 1 again; it is an OK oil for a daily driver but not something I would take a car to the track with.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,210
Likes: 9
From: CA
You can actually change oil and filter without lifting the car at all if you can stretch a bit. Just turn the front wheel out of the way. Low profile drain pan and socket extensions. Pretty easy if your not limited in some way. I love it myself.
And you can trust the Oil Life Monitor too.
Every 5000 is more then likely way too soon and unnecessary.
I doubt your pushing the car that hard to reduce oil life that much.
And you can trust the Oil Life Monitor too.
Every 5000 is more then likely way too soon and unnecessary.
I doubt your pushing the car that hard to reduce oil life that much.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,651
Likes: 125
From: laguna niguel ca
Actually on a C6 changing oil is easier than on my C5. On my C6 you simply jack up the passenger side on the car. This tilts the driver's side down. Since the drain plug is on the driver's side it drains out easy. On my C5 you had to ramp up the front. Then jack up the rear higher than the front ,because the drain plug on the pan is in front, and it's the only way to get all the oil out. So low profile jack and and a jack stand for safety is all you'll need.
Racer
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 311
Likes: 15
From: Southeast Florida
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 38
From: King George VA
For a daily driver, I'm also a pretty firm believer in the Oil Life Monitor and change my oil per the OLM or annually (which is required per my owner's manual in all my Chevy's).
If you do decide to try AMSOIL, I'd use either of these two oils which AMSOIL recommends for the C6:
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic 0w30
AMSOIL SAE Synthetic 5w30
__________________
C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 11
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
6 Quarts if you have the Z51 perf/handling package. Otherwise 5.5 (the oil cooler added by Z51 adds capacity).
I've heard nothing but praise for Redline. I don't use it because it is not readily available, but I've used their products on my transmission before and was very impressed.
I've heard nothing but praise for Redline. I don't use it because it is not readily available, but I've used their products on my transmission before and was very impressed.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: NoVa/DC
Great input. I will be doing mine in couple of months.
I'll play it safe and go w/ Mobil 1 as well since I don't track mine despite Z-51 package (6 qts).
But, to extend the OP's questions, what filters do you recommend if I were to buy from a local Pepboys, Autozone, Checkers Auto, Wal-Mart, etc., or should I get an OEM via dealership?
I'll play it safe and go w/ Mobil 1 as well since I don't track mine despite Z-51 package (6 qts).
But, to extend the OP's questions, what filters do you recommend if I were to buy from a local Pepboys, Autozone, Checkers Auto, Wal-Mart, etc., or should I get an OEM via dealership?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 11
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
I always go with OEM filters. They cost about $5 at the dealership.
I've used Mobil 1, K&N, Fram Extended guard... I saw a review where a guy pulled a bunch of filters apart and found that the OEM had the best internal construction.
I've used Mobil 1, K&N, Fram Extended guard... I saw a review where a guy pulled a bunch of filters apart and found that the OEM had the best internal construction.