Is there anybody on here that has got under 3000 pounds without the driver in the car. I'm at 3095 and my weight reduction is:

Straight pipes no mufflers,no cats, no resonators
Headers
Removed windsheild wiper resovoir
removed sound deadoning in trunk

Car is a 2007 Black Z51 6-speed with absolutely no options not even the side airbags.

I'm throwing on PS2's soon and I also eventually plan on getting:

Lighweight wheels
Lightweight (bembo) brakes
Coilovers.
Racing seats

Does anybody have any other ideas/ suggestions

 

lighter battery
carbon fiber body panels

 

Radio, speakers, front AIRBAGS (drastic), lighter battery.

 

Wheels tires will be big. Also the viper guys save about 40lbs by replacing the seat supports with an aluminum rig.

 

I have a heavy battery in my trunk because I need the traction benefit. Who sells carbon fiber panels?

 

Is there anything like that for the vette or would I have to custom make it.

 

You could remove the seats for a pair of ultrashield (or Kirkey) aluminum road racing seats with Hardbar aluminum mounts. It's what I used in my Z06 and now the Panoz race car.

The seat and hardbar rails


Installed in the Z06


Now in the Panoz



If you're not a track junkie don't worry about a few pounds. If you do want the carbon panels speak with Kerry Hitt at ACP www.corvetteracebodies.com.

 

If you dont mind me asking how much did those go for and how much weight did they chop off? I would do those purely for asthetic purposes? Also are they wide enough to fit a big guy (i'm 6,3, 225 pounds with a size 38 waist)

 

diet

 

I've got you beat I'm 6'4" 245 (36" waist) I'm not sure on the weight. They're very light as they're all aluminum. The stock C5 driver's seat was rather heavy with the power motor. The passenger side manual seat wasn't heavy at all. I'd say you save 20ish lbs per seat maybe more, but I'm not 100%.

I was pleasantly surprised with how comfortable they are. I left mine in the Corvette for a while between track events and drove it on the street w/o issue, it's just more work getting in and out of and I didn't have my stock seatbelt setup. The seat is not on any sliders so it's a hard mount and it has no recline. You'll want to have a buddy help with test fitting and getting it all correct for you. I got a ballpark, drove it aroudn a bit, then pulled it and changed the angle the seat sets to make it perect for me.

To figure out what size seat you need (with any racing seat) you'll want to sit on the floor with your back against the wall and legs out. Take 2 2x4s and place them on each hip and against the wall. Then measure this distance and add 1/2". My hips were 16.5" sitting like that so I got the 17" seat. Ultrashield makes an 18" seat, but it wouldn't fit in a C5 with the stock lower seat belt retractor in place. On the C6 that part is bolted to the seat so you have a little more floor room... at least that's what I saw when putting a harnessbar and lap belt kit in my buddy Rich's C6Z.

Here on the C5 you can see the lower belt are where it bulges out. The 17" seat w/ rails JUST fits in there so I din't have to cut the panel or remove the belt.


On a C6 that's not there so I think you could go w/ the 18" seat.



Here's the ultrashiled w/o the covering on and the Hardbar brackets. You can get the hardbar seat mounts from www.hardbar.net (I think that's Gary's new website).


Here's the seat mount put together in the lowest position and adjusted for me. I had to drill new mount holes in the bottom to line up w/ the Panoz chassis as it's made specifically for a C6/C5, hence the large holes one each end that go over your oem seat studs.


HTH,
Brian

 

Taking out the stock seats in the C5 or C6 and putting the Ultra-shields seats will save ~ 50 lbs.

Light wheels are a big BIG plus. Try to get the wheel tire combo down to 40 lbs vs the stock 51-52 lbs

get rid of the speakers, air bags, any plastic bling, carpet, and cut out the Big Macs, AC condenser, HUD, go to light wt battery.

Side windows, front and rear glass change to Lexon.

carbon fiber body and no paint. That should get you down to 2800

 

^ All that works for a tack car, but I think he's trying to keep it somewhat comfortable as a street car.

That's why I say give up on it and enjoy driving the car. Unless you're racing it every weekend you won't feel 100 or 200lbs.

 

How about taking out the passenger seat all together. That should save some additional weight

On a plus side to that, you'll have an excuse to not giving someone a ride

I also forgot to mention your fuel rail covers, the black mat with the corvette logo attached to the underside of your hood, and your owners manual if it's still in the car.

I wonder how much better fuel economy you'll have being under 3,000 pounds. and what the 0-60/1/4 mile would be. Handling must be improved by doing this as well. I may consider doing what you did if it makes a big difference.

 

Question? Why is so important to be under 3000 lbs? Is this a race car, or street car? If your building a race then I understand your motivation. If it's a street car, why would you sacrafice all these items for a few lbs? My cars weight on a scale was 3123lbs. dry, before any mods. Options 1lz, Z51 manual. It's an 05 with a forged 427 making 525rwhp. Plenty of power for the weight of the car. And I think mine is a stripper. Straight pipes! A little noisy driving down the road I would think. I guess if your looking for the ultimate in weight savings you'll get there with the items you mentioned and the suggestions from others on this thread. I'm still in the dark as to why. You know if you make enough power it woun't make much different how much your car weighs, and you can have all of your comfort items. It's called having your cake and eat it too. Just my opinion.

 

^ Exactly what I'm getting at... for a street car just add power, for a race car ditch all the creature comforts.

 

Just don't let your insurance company catch wind of you removing the airbags if you do. I agree with the above if you're just looking for more speed and to keep the car as comfy as possible, go with some mods over weight loss.

 

Easy weight reductions:

50lb - race seats on manual mounts (from Pfadt). 50lb total savings primarily from removing the power bases. The factory seat itself is surprisingly light.

32lb - 18 in wheels + R compound rubber. 18x10.5 rear w/305 Nitto R and 18x9.5 front with Nitto 275. Each front wheel is 6lb less than the oem, and the rears are a whopping 10lb each. HUGE difference in handling as well. You must use OEM Speedline cast painted / polished wheels, not the super heavy Chinese reproduction stuff.

22lb - remove your targa top.

 

I'm definatly going to add more power but there is two sides to your power to weight ratio and I want to explore both. I'm just trying to see if there is anything else I missed that could help me out. The car is primarily for racing hence the straight pipes and yes they are LOOUUD.

Thanks

 

The black mat and owners manual are in my garage, and the fuel rail covers are carbon fiber. I no it's bad. Also I clean my car after every time I drive it from the exhaust tips to the rims. I no i'm alittle obsessed with my car but most mechanics are. It took me five years to save up a big down payment and it takes 6 years to pay it off and I plan on keeping it for life so I try to take care of it.

 

What wheels are you talking about?