BJ,

Not enough testing....at least not enough good data recording.... to give a definitive answer.

But, in the future I will be capturing the data and logging it through the dyno software. From this we can clearly understand the relationships and the gains/losses. I'll set up a log that records boost, fuel pressure, meth/water flow, IAT's and of course torque/hp & AF.

thanks,

 

That would be great to see. I'm currently running straight meth (Heet), and was tuned on straight meth. I'd like to be able to use a mix if there is some benefit to it (plus I really am not that crazy about having that extremely flammable fluid under the hood).

Do you think I would see any benefits (or problems) using a 50/50 mixture if my car was tuned on straight meth?

 

my other car a Subaru LGT turbo 2.5L 325whp/340wtq has a turbo and i run a Snow Performance alky kit w/Safe Injection. i really don't think running straight meth is a good idea the water is there to reduce temps, the methanol to increase octane, a mixture of the two 50/50 is ideal blue windshield washer fluid works great. Plus 100% methanol is more corrosive to the fuel system it could harm injectors, seals, etc. you really need to contact Snow Performance and quit guessing.

 

There are tons of people that run straight meth as long as the pump and system are designed for it (the ECS systems is). Meth also cools it doesnt just raise octane. My question is more is more about how a car that is tuned for straight meth will run on a mixture. I'll ask the ECS guys as they are the ones that tuned my car and its their alky system.

 

when water alone is injected by these systems it raises the knock threshold significantly. you could basically run just water but by adding methanol to the mix it raises it even higher in two ways, one is because of methanol's latent heat of evaporation, and the other is by the direct contribution of its fuel value and octane. plus in a daily driver you get the antifreeze properties when using the mix. btw i agree i would do what the tuner/manufacturer recommends but for a daily driver i find the mix works great. good luck.

 

Shortly Im installing a D1-Procharger on my 06 A6. With the 6lb pulley is a meth injection system needed or beneficial? Or should I omit it until I turn the boost up?

 

www.snowperformance.net it's all there.

 

Snow Performance is in the business of selling their product. In fact on the website you furnished they recommend meth injection for naturally aspirated engines. Thanks for the link anyway.

Anyone else not in the business have any advice on a Procharger 6lb system benefiting from meth injection?

 

well then here's another link for the non believers. btw Snow Performance is one of the top water/alky injection companies out there believe what they say. if WI will help a NA car it will also help yours even at a modest 6# but hey, what do i know

http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...icle_info.html

 

Well you better run out then and reap the benefits of injection for your naturally aspirated car since you seem to believe everything you read. I take sales pitches with a grain of salt. I dont recall anyone one this site putting it on a N.A. car, so you be sure to let us know how it works.

 

I've talked to Snow and other Meth,Meth/water injector Companys,and I'm going with Snow after MUCH debate!!!

 

maybe you should reread post 23 and quit being a jerk i was trying to help you but i see now you can't be helped.

 

Be careful running straight Methanol. High concentrations of Methanol is corrosive to Aluminum. If the concentration is too high or atomization rate is too low from your meth injection system you may get some pooling which will pit your aluminum runners.

Running a 50/50 mix is by far the best for intake charge cooling and detonation control. Charge air temps are dramatically lowered and seeing a lower EGT exciting the cylinder will truely show you how easily detonation is controlled.
Straight water which you better make sure it is distilled! Have you ever seen superheated Calcium or other minerals? Water will help cool charge air...but not much for detonation control other than cooling charge air.
Straight Methanol will lower detonation, but the true cooling effects are far lower if water is not present.

It is all about the atomization of the 50/50 mix to not only get the added high octane from the Meth, but to allow the water to wick the heat out of the entire system after it is injected. That is why Snow uses a very high pressure pump along with a series of nozzles (depending on your HP numbers) to perfectly atomize the fluid. Just like your fuel injectors...if they do not atomize to a perfect mist you will get droplets. Droplets will not wick the heat out of the charge, or intake air, and when they enter the combustion chamber they will not burn properly.

One thing many tuners do not do when adding a Water/Meth system is to install the Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT) after the nozzle on the later model MAFs. BIG MISTAKE! Obviously on the later model MAF sensors the IAT is incorporated. You can not blow Water/Meth through the MAF for the incorporated IAT to see the temps. You need to wire in an early model IAT for the PCM to see the proper charge air temp. Getting a true reading of the Intake Charge Temp is crucial to proper tuning.

One last thing...STOP TELLING PEOPLE TO USE WASHER FLUID! The only washer fluid that should be used and even then it should only be used in an extreme pinch is the -20 F Blue Washer Fluid. Last time I was in the Southern States I did not see -20 F washer fluid although it was blue in color. ONLY -20 F Washer Fluid has Methonal in it...but the true concentrations are not known. Some say 30/70 Meth/Water...some 40/60...so far I have not seen 50/50. If you are ragged edge dialed-in relying on the methanol for increased timing and you put in less of a concentration of Methanol you WILL DETONATE!

Methonal in a Normally Aspirated motor also works very well for detonation control. Timing is power and the more you can safely add with Water/Meth injection the more power you will make...Forced Induced or N/A.

 

This is not exactly what you are looking for but it might point you in the right direction.

3 year compare using boost and w/meth

BTW; w/m injection works very well on N/A engines. I have it installed on mine.

 

Well I just read #23 and it offers absolutley no information that would pertain to the situation I posted.I offered thanks to you after your first post and you chose to take offense(rolling eyeballs ) to the fact that I wasnt impressed your supplied link.It seems like your one of the know it alls to has a hissy fit when he doesnt get his way. That is a jerk.

 

first off unless the car is a race car why would anyone tune their street car to the ragged edge in the first place? second thing is my car was originally tuned with the blue WW fluid (Peak brand) it's readily available here it's cheap and it's what i've been running for a year with no ill effects. i'm running 23 psi at full boost with no issues it's all in the tune. WW fluid will not harm a properly tuned car.

 

TG pilot,.............................AWESOME write-up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's why I'm going with the 50/50 system!!

Oh,..ps,,,,please let's not turn this into a bitch fest!!!!
Thanks,George

 

Bosco,..I think TGpilot meant States such as California and other Western states don't readily have the -20 ww fluild!!!

 

thats cool just trying to save you boys the hassle of mixing your own.

 

Hey Bosco,

Not being nasty towards you. Even if you talk directly to Matt Snow he will tell you to use it in a pinch only. Now some will say that is because he wants you to buy his boost juice. Not entirely true because it is a proven issue with the -20F WW fluid that it does not have a consistant mix ratio.

No offense man!

-Kenny