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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 06:08 PM
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Default jack stands

I searched for what is most likely a VERY simple answer but couldn't find one. I have a floor jack and jacking pucks. I know where and how to install the pucks. But I'll be darned if I know of a safe/correct place to put the jack stands once it is in the air. It is clear, even to me, that I can't jack and then use the same location for the stands. I am a bit mech challenged so I don't want to place them on any suspension parts that may be damaged. Back in the day we jacked up the car and stuck a stand under a part of the frame. Isn't happening on this car, huh?
Advice?
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 06:17 PM
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From what I have gathered from all the posts is that you can jack from the "preferred" locations underneath the car and put jackstands under the pucks on the sides or jack from the puck areas on the sides and place jack stands under the "preferred" locations in the center - placing a piece of wood or similar material between the jack metal and the car.

Or, get the bar from northern and lift from underneath and place stands all at the same time.
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by C2C6
From what I have gathered from all the posts is that you can jack from the "preferred" locations underneath the car and put jackstands under the pucks on the sides or jack from the puck areas on the sides and place jack stands under the "preferred" locations in the center - placing a piece of wood or similar material between the jack metal and the car.

Or, get the bar from northern and lift from underneath and place stands all at the same time.


'Preferred' locations for a floor jack are the front and rear cross-beams. At the rear, there are two cross-beams; one BEHIND the rear leaf-spring (to which the sway bar is attached) and one in FRONT of the rear leaf-spring. The official jacking point is the rear-most cross-beam, but you can also use the one slightly further forwards as an alternative.

Cheers,
Ian.
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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HUH? So I need to find the preferred locations, jack it up and then place the stands under the pucks? OK, how do I identify the front crossbeam? Mech challenged, please remember!
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dkrhardy
HUH? So I need to find the preferred locations, jack it up and then place the stands under the pucks? OK, how do I identify the front crossbeam? Mech challenged, please remember!
Have you tried looking in your owner's manual? My C5 manual has information regarding jacking and stands. I made pieces out of 2x6s to put up under my crossmembers, and then the jack stands go under the outside of the 2x6s
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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The pucks are mostly useful with a floor lift, which of course lifts the entire car in one swell foop and doesn't require stands.

When jacking with a jack, its much easier to lift first the front of the car, then the rear with a jack under the center of the respective crossmembers and stands toward either side of them.

There are pictures in the manual showing the ideal locations, and the crossbeam adapters are very nice for easy levelling and repeatability, but simply jacking under the middle of one of the crossmembers and putting the jackstands near or under the points where the lower A-arms attach works just fine. Just remember to put the jack and stands under as many ribs as possible.

You may need a bit of ramp to get under the front unless you have a long, low jack.

One thing to keep in mind with the C6 - its a lot stiffer than most cars, and if you have any unevenness in your garage floor you're likely to need to shim a jackstand a little bit to get it rest firmly on all four. A few pieces of 1/8 and 1/16 inch aluminum work well for this.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 06:41 PM
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Thanks all. I never would have thought there was jacking info on a car with no jack. So that is in an area that I didn't read.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Buffy

When jacking with a jack, its much easier to lift first the front of the car, then the rear with a jack under the center of the respective crossmembers and stands toward either side of them.


You may need a bit of ramp to get under the front unless you have a long, low jack.
I drive my C5 front wheels up onto two 2"x12"x24" boards to raise the front up. Then I can slide the low profile jack under.

Here is the car on jack stands

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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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OH - Thanks. Photos always help us that are mech challenged!!!
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Buffy
The pucks are mostly useful with a floor lift, which of course lifts the entire car in one swell foop and doesn't require stands.

When jacking with a jack, its much easier to lift first the front of the car, then the rear with a jack under the center of the respective crossmembers and stands toward either side of them.
So I have a floor jack that will fit right under these cross beams at the front and rear of my C6.

I shouldn't need to go out then and purchase four pucks should I.

Or do your cross members have a cutout for the pucks too?

If I am going to do an X-pipe and muffler install I am thinking that all I need to purchase then is four good quality jack stands.

Any common likeliness here to a specific brand and model of Jack Stand?

Thanks!
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 11:31 AM
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Got this idea off the forum some time ago when I was doing my header and x pipe install. has worked well for me. Infact this is a current picture of my car waiting for wheels today!

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 11:43 AM
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Guys....a car isn't that hard to jack up and put stands under.

The "preferred" locations are not the only places you can jack these cars up and jacking pucks are 100% not needed with a floor jack.

I have jacked the car up from the front, back, sides and placed jackstands all over in various sturdy locations to allow for movement under the vehicles as I need it.

Dont think too hard about this stuff...just jack the car up, look under it, and then slide a stand where the car wont break.
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 12:10 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ft&forum_id=74
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SLAMMER 2
[IMG][/IMG]
Cool idea and clearly illustrated. This is just a suggestion, but may increase safety some. I have had boards split when I align the grain with the edge of a beam as in this photo. The wood blocks (the top two pieces) are less likely to split if you run the grain perpendicular to the edges that are bearing weight on the board. Near the ends, it looks like there is a rib running across the wood grain, but I would suggest running the grain across the longer edges because they will bear more of the weight.

Last edited by RA91925; Sep 11, 2009 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 06:24 PM
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to avoid the wood splitting I laminated a layer of 1/2 plywood to the top and bottom to a 2X6 never a problem
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SLAMMER 2
Got this idea off the forum some time ago when I was doing my header and x pipe install. has worked well for me. Infact this is a current picture of my car waiting for wheels today!

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
This is correct per the manual. Spread the weight across the frame with jack pads (wood in this case).
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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http://www.bugmanweb.com/c6/c6index.html
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