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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 05:41 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
A little nitrous backfire/explosion is not a problem...a little Zaino and some elbow grease will take that right out.
if you look in the background you see that he is already ready to clean it up
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 05:44 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel @ ECS
if you look in the background you see that he is already ready to clean it up
Yeah looks like a bottle of Spray Nine or something, that's a good start LOL.
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 08:31 PM
  #63  
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Spin why would I need injectors? Is it that close to exceeding the stockers with a 100 shot?
Thanks for the breakdown, That cleared some things up for me.
The system I picked out does have some safety features maybe not the Spin safety features. Its a dry shot too. I need to do more reading and hopefully not confuse myself. As far as the fast thing goes I was told to use the LS portworks directions. Which were horrible IMO.Thats where the issues arose from. I told you that before. Two of those guys from the cherry hill meet are chevy techs too. LOL. They are running smaller injectors than I am.
Mike
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 06:35 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Braciole
Spin why would I need injectors? Is it that close to exceeding the stockers with a 100 shot?
Thanks for the breakdown, That cleared some things up for me.
The system I picked out does have some safety features maybe not the Spin safety features. Its a dry shot too. I need to do more reading and hopefully not confuse myself. As far as the fast thing goes I was told to use the LS portworks directions. Which were horrible IMO.Thats where the issues arose from. I told you that before. Two of those guys from the cherry hill meet are chevy techs too. LOL. They are running smaller injectors than I am.
Mike
You cant run any nitrous sytem without a window switch (needs to be wired into a tach signal wire) and yes the injectors would be maxxed out. The fact you dont know this already or have to ask that question means you arte incapable of handling this install. If you wont listen to me, then listen to another tuner. You need to tune such a system....especially a dry shot. If you are going to listen to 'the guys at the track' then have them help you with the install. Dont do this on your own. It isnt a beginner project and a dry shot is 10 times more complicated than a wet shot. Your car isnt stock and its already using up some of the injector that another guy may not have used up being that they may be using a dry shot as thier only mod.....or worse, they may be running out of injector and leaning out on top. You better ask them for a scan of thier car on a shot to see if it is running lean up top. You cant run the stock timing curve either and that kit doesnt have a timing retard box (240 bucks) or my control module. You have to pull 3 degrees minimum for that size shot.

Trying to teach yourself all there is to know about it to save 500-700 in labor is going to cost you so much more later on. The stock 32lb'ers are maxed out, especially in the winter with H/C cars at 13:1 A/F ratio. Your car plus 100 shot is more injector duty cycle than a H/C car and it cant run at 13:1. It has to be richer. If you miss or aim wrong, the MAF wont add the right amount of fuel and tuning in bigger injectors isnt free. You werent getting ripped off with the quote. The systems you observed werent very good if they werent tuned and have no safety equipment. If you insist on believing you can do the install yourself, definitely do a wet shot. The control module I make doesnt work the way your kit is designed to work. It is by no means anywhere near as safe as mine. If you cant follow the instructions I put in this thread, you cant do a dry shot install. Your tune in the car is also unlikely to be ok with a nitrous shot. In a scan there better not be any knock retard at all.

I cant do the install anyway at this point so get someone to help you. You made some major mistakes with a simple manifold install and this is far more complicated. This isnt a business transaction for me, I'm telling you as a friend this isnt the way to go. If I thought that type of fuleing for a dry shot was any good I would have used it. I typed all thatr info and you're not asking about the control module I use or any details thinking the system you are getting is anything like what was proposed. You arent comparing apples to apples. You will have a dangerous, unchecked, untuned system. Read all that info again.

Last edited by SpinMonster; Jul 8, 2008 at 07:08 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 07:04 AM
  #65  
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I call dibs on the Z fenders.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 07:39 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
You cant run any nitrous sytem without a window switch (needs to be wired into a tach signal wire) and yes the injectors would be maxxed out. The fact you dont know this already or have to ask that question means you arte incapable of handling this install. If you wont listen to me, then listen to another tuner. You need to tune such a system....especially a dry shot. If you are going to listen to 'the guys at the track' then have them help you with the install. Dont do this on your own. It isnt a beginner project and a dry shot is 10 times more complicated than a wet shot. Your car isnt stock and its already using up some of the injector that another guy may not have used up being that they may be using a dry shot as thier only mod.....or worse, they may be running out of injector and leaning out on top. You better ask them for a scan of thier car on a shot to see if it is running lean up top. You cant run the stock timing curve either and that kit doesnt have a timing retard box (240 bucks) or my control module. You have to pull 3 degrees minimum for that size shot.

Trying to teach yourself all there is to know about it to save 500-700 in labor is going to cost you so much more later on. The stock 32lb'ers are maxed out, especially in the winter with H/C cars at 13:1 A/F ratio. Your car plus 100 shot is more injector duty cycle than a H/C car and it cant run at 13:1. It has to be richer. If you miss or aim wrong, the MAF wont add the right amount of fuel and tuning in bigger injectors isnt free. You werent getting ripped off with the quote. The systems you observed werent very good if they werent tuned and have no safety equipment. If you insist on believing you can do the install yourself, definitely do a wet shot. The control module I make doesnt work the way your kit is designed to work. It is by no means anywhere near as safe as mine. If you cant follow the instructions I put in this thread, you cant do a dry shot install. Your tune in the car is also unlikely to be ok with a nitrous shot. In a scan there better not be any knock retard at all.

I cant do the install anyway at this point so get someone to help you. You made some major mistakes with a simple manifold install and this is far more complicated. This isnt a business transaction for me, I'm telling you as a friend this isnt the way to go. If I thought that type of fuleing for a dry shot was any good I would have used it. I typed all thatr info and you're not asking about the control module I use or any details thinking the system you are getting is anything like what was proposed. You arent comparing apples to apples. You will have a dangerous, unchecked, untuned system. Read all that info again.
Amen! Spin speaks the truth here. I honestly would not run spray on your car unless you are an experienced tuner/techy. There are way too many problems and dangers with spray. One mistake can make sure car turn into that charcoal picture that Spin has posted.

Also, Spin is correct when he talks about Dry over Wet. Dry shots require A LOT more tuning and refining but are overall safer than wet shots in my opinion.

For the love of God, please do not install this kit yourself! As I have looked through your posts, it seems to me that you are not an experienced mechanic. Which is nothing to be ashamed of; I would be the first to admit that I have limited experience with getting in and doing my own work. But, if you are really wanting spray... please pay the money for labor. It is not worth it to attempt to install it on your own knowing what could possibly go wrong... you have a 50k+ car and seeing from your mods list you have no problem with money! So, take that 500-1000 extra dollars and use it to have it professionally done. It is the only right choice you could make at this point.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 10:46 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
You cant run any nitrous sytem without a window switch (needs to be wired into a tach signal wire) and yes the injectors would be maxxed out. The fact you dont know this already or have to ask that question means you arte incapable of handling this install. If you wont listen to me, then listen to another tuner. You need to tune such a system....especially a dry shot. If you are going to listen to 'the guys at the track' then have them help you with the install. Dont do this on your own. It isnt a beginner project and a dry shot is 10 times more complicated than a wet shot. Your car isnt stock and its already using up some of the injector that another guy may not have used up being that they may be using a dry shot as thier only mod.....or worse, they may be running out of injector and leaning out on top. You better ask them for a scan of thier car on a shot to see if it is running lean up top. You cant run the stock timing curve either and that kit doesnt have a timing retard box (240 bucks) or my control module. You have to pull 3 degrees minimum for that size shot.

Trying to teach yourself all there is to know about it to save 500-700 in labor is going to cost you so much more later on. The stock 32lb'ers are maxed out, especially in the winter with H/C cars at 13:1 A/F ratio. Your car plus 100 shot is more injector duty cycle than a H/C car and it cant run at 13:1. It has to be richer. If you miss or aim wrong, the MAF wont add the right amount of fuel and tuning in bigger injectors isnt free. You werent getting ripped off with the quote. The systems you observed werent very good if they werent tuned and have no safety equipment. If you insist on believing you can do the install yourself, definitely do a wet shot. The control module I make doesnt work the way your kit is designed to work. It is by no means anywhere near as safe as mine. If you cant follow the instructions I put in this thread, you cant do a dry shot install. Your tune in the car is also unlikely to be ok with a nitrous shot. In a scan there better not be any knock retard at all.

I cant do the install anyway at this point so get someone to help you. You made some major mistakes with a simple manifold install and this is far more complicated. This isnt a business transaction for me, I'm telling you as a friend this isnt the way to go. If I thought that type of fuleing for a dry shot was any good I would have used it. I typed all thatr info and you're not asking about the control module I use or any details thinking the system you are getting is anything like what was proposed. You arent comparing apples to apples. You will have a dangerous, unchecked, untuned system. Read all that info again.

Spin is correct here.

you don't go cheap with nitrous, if you don't put in the safety items (timing retard, window switches) and if you don't have enough fuel, you're simply effed.

good luck installing this on your own. I want to know when you test it out I'd like to come with my camera to watch the show.

I honestly don't think you'll have an engine if you go cheap...

Last edited by undertaker; Jul 8, 2008 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 08:27 PM
  #68  
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Most dry shot haters started out as dry shot DIY'ers.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 10:27 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
Most dry shot haters started out as dry shot DIY'ers.
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