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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 11:42 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Anim8or
You know you can't suck water into your engine unless you FULLY SUBMERGE the intake in water.. driving through "puddles" won't do it (at least in my term.. when the road has 2 feet of standing water wide enough to drive your entire front end through, that's a lake not a puddle. the CAI intake has to be totally underwater to create suction to pull water in... The water has to be pretty deep for that. Just don't drive in a flood... honestly our cars are low enough to the road that if you are going to drive through water deep enough to submerge a CAI, you are probably driving deep enough to suck water up the stock intake anyway (it's like a 8 inch difference).

I had a CAI in Vancouver (where it rains 9 month a year non-stop), and drove through puddles 9 months a year... If you end up in a ditch of water putting your front end a foot deep, get off the gas and the car will stall before you suck water in, kill the engine and push the car out, DON'T floor it (I did save my car once like this when I hit 2 feet of water that looked like road). To really suck water up you have to be on the gas when you hit the water, and you have to be fairly deep. JUST BE CAREFUL, a waterlogged engine is not a cheap repair in any way..
Exactly.
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 08:11 AM
  #62  
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Here's a poll I did for '08's for what its worth. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1897629
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #63  
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Here's my new Airaid in case some haven't seen this one. Easy install,
excellent instructions, quality kit! I gained .343 seconds improvement from 50-100 mph.
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 02:39 PM
  #64  
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8850,
With the Airaid, Any cutting of original parts/pieces ?
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 02:46 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by NTMD8R
8850,
With the Airaid, Any cutting of original parts/pieces ?
No cutting of any factory parts. I can reinstall my factory in a few minutes if I need to take it in for warranty.

http://www.airaid.com/InstallationPDF/250-230.pdf
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 02:50 PM
  #66  
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I still like this one best. And it gives a little bit of extra power.

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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by HAIL THI$
Been running a HallTech Stinger for 2 years and never had a problem. Still one of the best aftermarket parts I put on the car. The stock setup is way to constricted....this was the first thing I bought when I got the car. If you have the windows down and you hammer on it you can hear it sucking the air.

Here is a pic...

I also did the stinger with the Halltech (CAI) modified grill piece.
Temp. at the filter stays the same as outside.
I do like the idea of the Airaid filter with the air dam to block hot air from going into the filter area.
Halltech now has a new style for our C6s that is said to be better, but big $$$$
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 05:18 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by glennhl
That looks like a nice inlet. However, you can break inlets down into Cold Air and Non-Cold Air. The Airaid is a Non-Cold Air inlet along with the K&N and the Halltech.. You can get close with the free ram-air and a shroud over it, but why not just go to a true cold air inlet like the Honker?

The problem with figuring out gains is that most people dyno with the hood open. This gives any inlet a cold air inlet. But as soon as you close the hood on the non-cold air inlet you start ingesting warm air from the engine compartment. We did some measuring and with the open shroud the non-cold air inlets got almost as cold as the cold air inlet but it took a few seconds to get there. The cold air inlet had cold air immediately.
Halltech has a CAI option that I got with my stinger. The air temp at the filter is the same as outside temp. I tested it by moving my outside air temp sencer from the AC display next to my Halltech filter.
I was then able to read the temp at the filter on my AC display.
At speed the Halltech CAI rams air into the filter area.
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 06:36 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by C6RAPTOR
Halltech has a CAI option that I got with my stinger. The air temp at the filter is the same as outside temp. I tested it by moving my outside air temp sencer from the AC display next to my Halltech filter.
I was then able to read the temp at the filter on my AC display.
At speed the Halltech CAI rams air into the filter area.
Not sure I understand this...

Where were you measuring your filter temp from, the AC display?

If so, and I may have mistaken you, the AC display picks up it's temperature reading from the front side of the shroud (e.g. cold air side), not inside the engine compartment near the air intake.

So, if you used your AC display as a measurement of your CAI temp, it might be way off.

If however, you're saying you set a temp reader in the air box area and compared it to your AC sensor then that would make more sense to me.

Please help me understand which you did as I'm very curious about the results. Also, at what temperature were each of the readings?

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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 08:06 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by A-Pex
Not sure I understand this...

Where were you measuring your filter temp from, the AC display?

If so, and I may have mistaken you, the AC display picks up it's temperature reading from the front side of the shroud (e.g. cold air side), not inside the engine compartment near the air intake.

So, if you used your AC display as a measurement of your CAI temp, it might be way off.

If however, you're saying you set a temp reader in the air box area and compared it to your AC sensor then that would make more sense to me.

Please help me understand which you did as I'm very curious about the results. Also, at what temperature were each of the readings?

I removed the sensor that measures outside temp that is located on the right side of the space that the airfilter is located and placed it
up by the filter. I then could read the air temp at the air filter by looking at my AC display. I checked the outside temp. with a portable thermometer. The temp at the air filter was the same as the outside temp as long as the car was moving. When I would stop the temp would increase at the filter. Soon after the car got moving the temp at the filter would again be the same as outside temp.
I did this test in 2005 on my then new 05.
Jim Hall from Halltech asked me to do the test after he sold me the CAI panel. As I recall it was a 75-78 F day and the temp at the air filter would run relatively the same as the out side temp.
After the test I place the out side air temp sensor back into the hole the reads air temp in the grill.
With the Halltech CAI there are two 4"x4" opening that opens up directly to the grill raming air into the space that the air filter is located.
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 01:47 AM
  #71  
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Not sure how accurate the AC sensor. Perhaps a good test but instead I used my HP Tuner to read IAT(intake air temp) vs. ambient. This reads at the mass air meter. The actural air that is passing into the engine. My ambient radio display read 77* and my IAT 77* with my Airaid.

With my factory intake I read about 4-5* higher than ambient. Not far from ambient. I think the Airaid dam will help mostly when at a stop or in the staging lanes where no forward motion air is forced into the air filter area.

Anyone interested in see these logs email me at 98larry@comcast.net
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 02:43 AM
  #72  
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VaraRam, spacer, and the FAST.....

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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 08:57 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by 8850
Not sure how accurate the AC sensor. Perhaps a good test but instead I used my HP Tuner to read IAT(intake air temp) vs. ambient. This reads at the mass air meter. The actural air that is passing into the engine. My ambient radio display read 77* and my IAT 77* with my Airaid.

With my factory intake I read about 4-5* higher than ambient. Not far from ambient. I think the Airaid dam will help mostly when at a stop or in the staging lanes where no forward motion air is forced into the air filter area.

Anyone interested in see these logs email me at 98larry@comcast.net
The factory MAF can read high because of heat saturation being that the MAF is so close to the hot engine air. That is the reason some tuners move the MAF temp reading away from the MAF flow meter
This takes a wiring change and new temp. TC.
How are you getting outside air to the filter? If it is air that is just leaking in from the grill area you may be limited on how much cold air you can get into the filter area. This is the reason for cutting two holes in the right & left side of the panel that is behind the grill.
The panel that Halltech sells is an OEM panel with a hole cut and mesh grill installed
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by C6RAPTOR
The factory MAF can read high because of heat saturation being that the MAF is so close to the hot engine air. That is the reason some tuners move the MAF temp reading away from the MAF flow meter
This takes a wiring change and new temp. TC.
How are you getting outside air to the filter? If it is air that is just leaking in from the grill area you may be limited on how much cold air you can get into the filter area. This is the reason for cutting two holes in the right & left side of the panel that is behind the grill.
The panel that Halltech sells is an OEM panel with a hole cut and mesh grill installed
I have made no modification to the car to bring in cool air. My ambient IAT temps with the Airaid were recorded while moving 50+ mph, WOT. Evidentally enough cool air filters in to adequately to bring my IAT down to ambient. As I mentioned with the factory intake and no air dam my temps did rise to a couple degrees higher than ambient under the almost identical test conditions.

Idling is another story. You do get radiated heat from the engine to the mass air sensor. Temps rise quickly. I have no tests to indicate that the dam makes any difference in IAT at idle. I do believe it however it should make some difference in the filter area temp. With the dam separation I believe the temps are rising at a slower rate iding with the Airaid.

Even the Vararam our IAT is going to rise at idle. Again the rate of raise should be slower with engine heat separated from the filter area with only outside air being fed to the intake.

I agree moving the mass air sensor would likely be beneficial but not something most of us can't easily modify. Cutting the two holes as you metioned would sure bring in much better flow the the filter area and quite possibly bring the temps down quicker once moving. Maybe even a slight ram effect?
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 10:58 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Exactly.
well taken but if you live in Florida like I do huge monsoon like downpours are common and sudden in the summer ...several reports of wet motors and stalls have been reported thru the local Corvette Cub with the "V" intake!
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 11:24 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by 8850
I have made no modification to the car to bring in cool air. My ambient IAT temps with the Airaid were recorded while moving 50+ mph, WOT. Evidentally enough cool air filters in to adequately to bring my IAT down to ambient. As I mentioned with the factory intake and no air dam my temps did rise to a couple degrees higher than ambient under the almost identical test conditions.

Idling is another story. You do get radiated heat from the engine to the mass air sensor. Temps rise quickly. I have no tests to indicate that the dam makes any difference in IAT at idle. I do believe it however it should make some difference in the filter area temp. With the dam separation I believe the temps are rising at a slower rate iding with the Airaid.

Even the Vararam our IAT is going to rise at idle. Again the rate of raise should be slower with engine heat separated from the filter area with only outside air being fed to the intake.

I agree moving the mass air sensor would likely be beneficial but not something most of us can't easily modify. Cutting the two holes as you metioned would sure bring in much better flow the the filter area and quite possibly bring the temps down quicker once moving. Maybe even a slight ram effect?
Good information I like the looks of the Airaid unit.
I changed the MAF IAT on my 07 Trailblazer SS when I added a CAI to get the IAT sensor into the air box.
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 12:23 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Wallacefl
well taken but if you live in Florida like I do huge monsoon like downpours are common and sudden in the summer ...several reports of wet motors and stalls have been reported thru the local Corvette Cub with the "V" intake!
I know of Florida's/south Florida's rain patterns well and have been bitten by them plenty of times in the past when visiting there but even in those 'instant monsoons' it is still driver/operator error when something goes wrong. If you're driving a Corvette, any Corvette in any state of modification, in those conditions then you simply have to pull over and wait it out.
Once again, yes there might be cases where a standing body of water will not be so deep/vast that it gets into one type of intake but might still find it's way into a Vararam's inlet...but when driving a car like this one ALWAYS takes precautions at all times.

Live on a mountain road with foot deep potholes and rocks?
Take your Hummer or Jeep instead of the Vette.

Found a beach that allows vehicles on it?
Umm, don't drive the Corvette out there.

Crossing a small river either planned or unplanned?
Turn around and go the other way pal if you're in your plastic fantastic.

Just too much hassle in having the best performing product on the market to have to be so careful you might say?
Well then why mod the car at all, just stay stock and feel more safe and secure.

Common sense, alertness and a little planning can go a long way.
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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