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So I was under my car last night to swap the exhaust and I noticed the wires from my o2 sensors hangin down a little. I checked it out and noticed the X-pipe is installed upside down, with the O2 bungs facing downward. The wires protrude downward a little and then are tied to the edge of the tunnel along both sides of the x-pipe until they go up into the engine bay. Is this the correct placement? I am pretty sure the bungs should be facing upward, so that they can not get caught on anything. If I flip the X-pipe though, I do not see anywhere to attach the sensor cables to in order to keep them out of contact with the exhaust pipes. I'm guessing this is why the last guy to work on my exhaust did it the way he did, but I just dont think it's right. So.....how am I supposed to run those O2 cables and what can I attach them to? This is with LG headers and cats. Thanks!
I have Kooks and mine face up. I used wire clips that I picked up at the local parts store. I just removed a bolt from the tunnel plate, installed the clip and replaced the bolt. I used two on each side.
I have Kooks and mine face up. I used wire clips that I picked up at the local parts store. I just removed a bolt from the tunnel plate, installed the clip and replaced the bolt. I used two on each side.
Something like this...(Cable clips in the electrical Dept.)
Did you flip the x-pipe so that the wire end of the sensors are aimed upwards slightly? If you don't, the sensors will be damaged when condensation water builds up in them and suddenly gets hot. They will free drain if there is a little angle on them.
Jogar, use adel (?) clips they are usually rubber coated so as not to chafe the wires. Attach to the tunnel plate bolts as in Modshack photos, they should be at any auto parts store.
Did you flip the x-pipe so that the wire end of the sensors are aimed upwards slightly? If you don't, the sensors will be damaged when condensation water builds up in them and suddenly gets hot. They will free drain if there is a little angle on them.
I am goin to flip it over...as soon as I can get it off!! The dam thing just wont budge!! Everything is loose except the xpipe and the driver side over-axle pipe. I just cant get them seperated..I am going nuts!!
Jogar, use adel (?) clips they are usually rubber coated so as not to chafe the wires. Attach to the tunnel plate bolts as in Modshack photos, they should be at any auto parts store.
I just bought these clips you stated. Just wondering if that rubber will hold up to the heat?
HELP!!!! I can't get the FREAKIN over-axle pipe loose. I'v tried pulling, twisting, hammering, prying, heating...even tried opening the slip joint a lil with a screw driver. NO LUCK. Ideas????
You will have to tie off the over axle pipe to the differential with a strap or belt or stretch cord so that the joint is in tension, then wiggle the x-pipe. If there is someone there that can pull while you are wiggling the pipes, it will help. Try some solvent overnight in the joint as well. Wiggle the over axle pipe side to side at the top if you can get in there, to break the rust bond.
Maybe LG has some better ideas, as they have to deal with this three slip joint arrangement all the time.
Another thing I have learned. Leaving the O2 harness connectors P-clipped to the tunnel plate bolts works fine on the street and drag strip. The connectors near the cats will start to melt during a track day, however, due to the higher heat levels. I have the connectors wrapped with exhaust wrap now and will try this change in a few weeks at the track. There is a reason LG recommends we put the wires/connectors above the tunnel plate and away from the cats.