Hi Folks,

I need some help with an overheating concern.

I am having a Procharger D1SC S/C installed on my 2008 Z06 this week. I have big concerns about overheating when road racing (hobby type racing). I have added a Dewitts A05A radiator and a 160 stat. I have not added the optional double fan for the Dewitts.

My questions is whether anyone has added an external oil cooler with a similiar set-up and what brand and where was it mounted. Did the oil temp come down to a reasonable level?

I have heard of Fluidyne, B&M, and Moroso but not sure if there are others, which are the best, and which may be the best for my specific situation. The car will be a daily driver 90% of the time and a road racing maybe times per year.

Please Help!!!!!

Thanks,
Paul

 

I believe I read a post where a Z06 owner had a Dewitts with the internal cooler and also plugged in his OEM cooler to the circuit for additional cooling.

 

I can do just that with the Dewitts but I have been told it is not enough if I want to use the car for road racing. I may be approaching the "dangerous" level of 275+ after 3-4 laps - especially here in Fla. I do appreciate the feedback.

 

275 for oil temps, you mean. I have the same issue no procharger, my idea was to put a setrab oil coolier 24 pass in place of the factory. I also though of mounting it horizontally and not vertical to get air that is going into the grill area but not to block the rad., you can also put a small fan on the oil cooler.

 

If you have not done it yet, roller rockers will drop your oil temp at least 20 deg. they did on my ls2, that being said. I want to add a oil cooler to my base model, I got the adapter from lingenfelter and a B&W supercooler{very well built} looks like it can take rock hits with no problems, Now I tried to get sugestions as to where to put it but I have got none as yet, I'm thinking of the space inside the front left fender right behind the vent in the fender, plumbing won't be that bad, or the one I think would be really trick would be right where you put a exhaust filler plate and run the hose's etheir inside the tunnel plate or on the outside of it with hose holders, I don't think it will add any heat in the tunnel or leach heat back in the oil, I just don't want to put it in front of the rad. and put the heat back in. any thoughts?

 

Ok - What if I were to purchase a Setrab and mount it under my wheel well (Not sure if I have enough room up front). I beleive (correct me if I am wrong) if the engine oil stays too cool during street driving it would be a bad thing. I could piggy back the Setrab from my Dewitts and have a cut off valve to stop the flow to the Setrab unless I need it for road racing.

Secondy, I have read alot about the mixture (liquid) within the radiator. Any suggestions there and will it be too much, not enough, worthless, when on street or track.

I am just not sure if this makes any sense at all but I have been told given my current set-up I will approach dangerously hi-temps after 2-4 laps.

I want to solution to be effective and reliable.

Any help is appreciated. It seems mine is a common problem and there seems to be no clear cut solution.

Regards,
CPG

 

I wonder if the ZR1 unit will be bigger than the Z06. You might want to ask Gene Culley

 

You should never connect an oil cooler without a thermostat anyways. A thermostat will ensure that your oil warms up to temperature quickly and the cooler only comes into play when needed. I ran a Perma Cool Remote Oil Thermostat a few cars ago and it worked well.
As far as the mixture, replacing the coolant for water on your radiator will dramatically increase the heat capacity and cooling capacity of the system. You can't run pure water, as it won't protect the engine from corrosion, but if you run mostly water with some water wetter you will see dramatic reductions in the coolant temps. And since you live in Florida you can do that without worrying about it freezing in winter.
Another thing to think about is heat management within the engine. Headers will reduce backpressure, lowering the boost your engine sees; it will get better gas mileage and make more power at lower boost, so the intake air temperature will go down and the heat load on the intercooler will go down as well. Ceramic coating the headers will also reduce under hood temperatures, again helping keep everything cool.
For the oil cooler location I would not hesitate to mount it on the front of the car; yes it will be blocking some of the airflow to the intercooler and radiator, but that is not a real issue at a kind of speed when the airflow into the front of the car is in the several tens of thousands of CFM.

 

As I indicated - I have added the A05A Dewitts which does have the intregral engine oil cooler but not the transmission cooler. Do you believe the add-on dual fan will have an effect or make enough of an impact to cool my engine oil to an acceptable level. Is it really worth the extra $$$. And finally - will it physically fit given I already have installed the D1SC with the intercooler?

This is very fun, ie., learning new things but there does not seem to be a clear cut way to solve the problem year round and from street driving to road racing. I thought adding the Ext cooler with a valve to remove trom the loop was a grand idea. Bu I will be the 1st to admit - I know nothing!

 

It's actually the other way around....
A05A has the tranny cooler, on the right side, metric ports.

the A05AE would have both, and the A05E would have the EOC only on the left side, O'ring ports.


PS. DRM offers nice external package complete with hoses and brackets.

 

Thanks Tom - I apparently cannot read. This whole thing is very confusing to me. I was going to call y'all after I ran the car for a few weeks on the street. HP Sales (Roger & Co.) is doing my Procharger install and they have convinced me to wait a few weeks before doing anything on an EOC. Arron Pfadt convinced me to add your radiator at the very least and of course, have done just that.

I then made a final decision to at least give road racing a try and spoke with Henry Gilbert. He indivcated an EOC is a must!

Given I have all the related S/C components packed up front where would you suggest I place a DRM or alike? Further, as I have an understanding (wrong or right) that an EOC may cool too much outside of racing. Would a cut off valve feeding the EOC be a reasonable idea?

I do not need to do the EOC immediately but certainly feel it should be done prior to road racing. Finally - would the dual cooling fan do me any good?

Thanks,
CPG

 

Tom:

I found the DRM 30-678 and it looks relatively small. The final question would be whether or not your A05AE has the capacity to cool my car during road racing?

Thanks,
Paul

I will call you first thing Thursday morning.

 

I have a Setrab core with a Mocal oil filter adapter plate with a built-in thermostat and some long lines on my other car. Added a quart of oil capacity and reduced my oil temps quite a bit. I plan to do the same on the Corvette eventually so this thread is of interest to me.

San

 

I appreciate all the comments and help. I will sit down with my shop whom I have yet to really push on this subject and come up with a solution. I have a mechanical mind but there are just to many variables.

 

On my friend's 677RWHP C5 the fans did solve the overheating problem, but his overheated in slower traffic; above maybe 50MPH your radiator gets more airflow than any fan in the world could provide it with...

 

We do sell the kit with either the Setrab 619 or the Setrab 625. 619 (13inch wide, 5.75 tall and 2 inch thick) The 625 (13 wide, 7.5 and 2 inch thick). They also make up to 18.5 tall, which is huge. Get them to fit inbetween a big radiator and a intercooler is not a fun task. There just isn't a lot of room as you know.

Superchargers and road racing just don't work that good together. Intercooler in front of the radiator, and the mass amounts of power that the engines are making. One must look at the amount of power needed to spin the compressor and add that to the "heat" made from the engine. So if you make 550 RWHP, That is about 640 or so to the crank, then if the supercharger takes 100 to spin. The engine is making the heat of a 740 engine. How many road race cars are making 740. That is more then Nascar, indy car, trans am cars, WC cars, ALMS cars, and many others. Flat out T1 guys have problems keeping things cool during a 40 minute race, with 400 horsepower.


Randy

 

I have quickly come to this realization. My only possible option is to purchase another Vette for strictly road racing. Now I just need a bigger garage

 

been on Back Order for awhile.

http://westcoastcorvette.com/p-1521-...ooler-kit.aspx

 

One reason why I'm leaning towards H/C instead of forced induction. I think the Corvette is challenged because it just doesn't have the front grille area large enough for an adequately sized fmic. One of the forum members I know had a S/C setup but didn't like the weight distribution and couldn't keep it cool. He switched to a H/C setup and liked it a lot better. I believe you know him.

San

 

I am not particularly concerned about the street. I understand the Z06 has a decent oil cooler and in addition I have added the Dewitts Radiator. What does concern me is the road racing issue. Keeping in mind I will run a a few laps "just for the fun of it".

Can I mount a Setrab under the wheel well? Not sure if the Setrab has a thermostat but certainly I can add a thermostat "module" downstream? I have access to a very capable machine shop so making custom bracketry is not an issue.

Another comment I have received is the oil sump may not be sufficient in general for road racing? Something about "banking on the curves" not allowing oil to circulate????