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I just picked up my gears, 4.10s, LS7 clutch, and output shaft last week. Broken in by now, so I decided to give my friend with a relatively modded M3 a run. We're pretty good friends so we run every time we do a new mod to our cars for ****s and giggles. I usually pull on him relatively hard. But this time with the gears, I didn't pull away as hard as I expected. In fact, it was slower than the gears.
Now I know that shorter gears are going to give us harder acceleration. Our roll ons usually occur at 40 and 60, first and second gear for me respectively. Did the same thing with the gears except it was second and third gear respectively. I noticed that the RPMs that I went at were lower than they were when I rolled before the gears were done. So I'm guessing that's probably what I need to try again with. But I just wanted to see if you guys had any opinions.
I just picked up my gears, 4.10s, LS7 clutch, and output shaft last week. Broken in by now, so I decided to give my friend with a relatively modded M3 a run. We're pretty good friends so we run every time we do a new mod to our cars for ****s and giggles. I usually pull on him relatively hard. But this time with the gears, I didn't pull away as hard as I expected. In fact, it was slower than the gears.
Now I know that shorter gears are going to give us harder acceleration. Our roll ons usually occur at 40 and 60, first and second gear for me respectively. Did the same thing with the gears except it was second and third gear respectively. I noticed that the RPMs that I went at were lower than they were when I rolled before the gears were done. So I'm guessing that's probably what I need to try again with. But I just wanted to see if you guys had any opinions.
My mods are in my sig. Thanks
So your saying that you ran from the same speeds, but now with the lower gears, the rpm's were lower at those starting speeds? That makes no sense at all. With 4.10 gears, you should of been about 400rpm or more higher when you guys hit it. You should of had a stronger torque jump with the gears.
So your saying that you ran from the same speeds, but now with the lower gears, the rpm's were lower at those starting speeds? That makes no sense at all. With 4.10 gears, you should of been about 400rpm or more higher when you guys hit it. You should of had a stronger torque jump with the gears.
I think he is saying that he is going from a gear up now... like he was starting with the punch in 1st gear, but due to the higher rpms... he is now going from 2nd.
I think he is saying that he is going from a gear up now... like he was starting with the punch in 1st gear, but due to the higher rpms... he is now going from 2nd.
Yeup, I used to be in first and about 4400ish rpm(?) at 40. Now I'm in second around 3800-4000ish rpm at 40. I'll try again sometime this week though.
Shoulda, woulda, coulda,... When you had the "OLD" gears in it instead of screwing around on the GSP or 287 you should have run at Atco or Englishtown.. you would have gotten ET & MPH for the 1/4, the 1/8 and ETs for 60' 330' 660' 1000'
THEN with your new gears you could TELL EXACTLY if you were faster or slower, and where you gained or lost the ET..
As it is now your depending on your driving AND his driving.. maybe he is shifting better, maybe your over revving etc...
Thats ONE reason I do all my racing on the track... After all the $$ you spent do you know what your car will run in the 1/4 or how well it will launch for the first 60' thats the most important..
The BS about a rolling start is just that BS!! if he hit the gas .10 (1 tenth of a sec) sooner than you that = 1 full car length...
Do yourself a favor and run it at a track and post some "REAL #"
i done test and tune on the street for years...get a stop watch and run 0-80 and 0-100. you make changes, go do three runs and you know if your faster or slower.
i done test and tune on the street for years...get a stop watch and run 0-80 and 0-100. you make changes, go do three runs and you know if your faster or slower.
Can someone with a little more knowledge than me jump in here, I've only been racing for 40+ yrs... Can he OP really use a stop watch and click it on launch, then click it at 80 mph & know if he is 1 or 2 "Tenths" Faster or Slower.. remember .10 (1 Tenth = app 1 car length at app 100 mph)
So you saying you and a buddy get in your car, he says GO.. you nail it he clicks the stop watch.. at 80 mph he looks at the speedo.. and clicks it..
You do this 3 times and its accurate to .050 ( a track is accurate to .001 1 thousandth) but I'll give you some leeway..
So you have 3 runs.. do you then take an "AVERAGE" and then do your mods.. and make 3 more runs... do you know if your launches are the EXACT SAME? or did you spin a little more..
You are getting TIME it take you to hit 80 mph... but if you spin just .2 your will be way off..
I'd like some "EXPERIENCED DRAG RACERS to pipe up with "Honest" opinions.. as to which method would be better...
Hey I'm old but am smart enough to know if your method is better I'll start doing it your way...
We did a couple roll ons. If he did get the slight jump, it still would not have turned out the way it did.
My slips are a little old. My last one was before my tune, gears, and ported manifold. So running now wouldn't have really been too much of a comparison. The M3 has SMG, so his shifting isn't much of a variable. The gears definitely feel faster. I think I just have to be in the right rev ranges since it's a little different now.
I'm avoiding E-town now because I feel like I'm putting too much stress on my rear and I'm saving up for a blown set up.
From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
Originally Posted by xkilo16x
We did a couple roll ons. If he did get the slight jump, it still would not have turned out the way it did.
My slips are a little old. My last one was before my tune, gears, and ported manifold. So running now wouldn't have really been too much of a comparison. The M3 has SMG, so his shifting isn't much of a variable. The gears definitely feel faster. I think I just have to be in the right rev ranges since it's a little different now.
I'm avoiding E-town now because I feel like I'm putting too much stress on my rear and I'm saving up for a blown set up.
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by xkilo16x
Yeup, I used to be in first and about 4400ish rpm(?) at 40. Now I'm in second around 3800-4000ish rpm at 40. I'll try again sometime this week though.
That's the problem right there - you're launching at a higher gear which is why it doesn't pull as hard.
If you want to try again, I would suggest starting off from first gear but at a lower RPM. My guess is that he'll be seeing your taillights pretty darn quick.
I don't have any answer's but a few weeks back I was at the local 1/8 mile track and ran into a C6 guy who just changed his gears from 3:42 to 4:10 on his M6 07 coupe. He told me that he never gained anything with the gear change. He's always at the track and is an avid drag racer but he expected to pick up a 1/10 or two. He left extremely disappointed.
I feel that if I start from first gear and lets say 30mph, I'll be extremely traction limited, especially in New Jersey's October weather. I'll give it a try though and see how things go. Thanks guys
For what it is worth I changed my gears from 2.73 to 3.42's and noticed ZERO difference in the 1/4 mile. The car was no doubt quicker off the line however, when i strached its legs to the quarter mile my times did not change.
Frustrated and depressed I had MTI racing install a A&A Vortech Supercharger and tuned it and my frustrations and depression all of a sudden dissapeared. BTW I have no problems with M3, M5, M6's or any other M's.
what speed are you racing to? if you now have an extra shift, that is lost time (pending on how fast you are) plus you could be spinning some w/ the extra gearing during the shift