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I have an o8 a6 273 rear var cold air intake 160 stat and a jeremy formato tune.I had the car tuned at 4000 miles, it now has 11000 miles on it.for the last two thousand miles the car is putting out so much torqe that when it hits second gear whether I am in d mode,s mode or using the paddle shifters the car gets squirly and is about to go completely out of control.I would like to know if anyone is experiencing the same problem.this is happening even with tc and ah on.If the problem is just the run flat tires,which tires do you suggest I switch to in the future to allieviate this problem. thanks in advance.
I have an o8 a6 273 rear var cold air intake 160 stat and a jeremy formato tune.I had the car tuned at 4000 miles, it now has 11000 miles on it.for the last two thousand miles the car is putting out so much torqe that when it hits second gear whether I am in d mode,s mode or using the paddle shifters the car gets squirly and is about to go completely out of control.I would like to know if anyone is experiencing the same problem.this is happening even with tc and ah on.If the problem is just the run flat tires,which tires do you suggest I switch to in the future to allieviate this problem. thanks in advance.
Had this with my old Vette (Supercharged A6), I heard the Nittos would solve the problem but I didn't try them. I thought about a good solution.. start racing from 140 KM/H
If you have your own tuning software check to see if your TC or AH has been disabled or reduced. If you don't, call Jeremy and ask him to check his copy of the tune he uploaded into your car to make sure they're enabled. There's no need to have them disabled all the time when you have a switch on the console.
... not knowing how hard you drove the car for the 11K I can't say for sure but I'll bet your tires are shot. I have a Z51 6MN & w/ headers & a vararam w/o a tune traction after 10K was shakey at best. I added a FAST, cam, etc. yielding 450rwhp at around 12K & the tires with the power were down right dangerous! Keeping the car on the road under aceleration took serious effort & was scary in a kinda fun way, like having fun in the snow except way faster with a very expensive car. Put on a new set of KDW2s the car immediately was back to normal. I can burn 'em at will, but I'm under control.
... not knowing how hard you drove the car for the 11K I can't say for sure but I'll bet your tires are shot. I have a Z51 6MN & w/ headers & a vararam w/o a tune traction after 10K was shakey at best. I added a FAST, cam, etc. yielding 450rwhp at around 12K & the tires with the power were down right dangerous! Keeping the car on the road under aceleration took serious effort & was scary in a kinda fun way, like having fun in the snow except way faster with a very expensive car. Put on a new set of KDW2s the car immediately was back to normal. I can burn 'em at will, but I'm under control.
The run flats are junk. I have an 05, 4AT, CAI and corsa cat back. The run flats were very squirly. I added falken FK452's and they hook well. The squirly traction is minimal.
... Not knowing how hard you drove the car for the 11k i can't say for sure but i'll bet your tires are shot. I have a z51 6mn & w/ headers & a vararam w/o a tune traction after 10k was shakey at best. I added a fast, cam, etc. Yielding 450rwhp at around 12k & the tires with the power were down right dangerous! Keeping the car on the road under aceleration took serious effort & was scary in a kinda fun way, like having fun in the snow except way faster with a very expensive car. Put on a new set of kdw2s the car immediately was back to normal. I can burn 'em at will, but i'm under control.
the car has mainly hwy miles on it and the tires are not even half way worn.
... Not knowing how hard you drove the car for the 11k i can't say for sure but i'll bet your tires are shot. I have a z51 6mn & w/ headers & a vararam w/o a tune traction after 10k was shakey at best. I added a fast, cam, etc. Yielding 450rwhp at around 12k & the tires with the power were down right dangerous! Keeping the car on the road under aceleration took serious effort & was scary in a kinda fun way, like having fun in the snow except way faster with a very expensive car. Put on a new set of kdw2s the car immediately was back to normal. I can burn 'em at will, but i'm under control.
the car has mainly hyw miles on it and the tires are not even half way worn.
...for anything to have changed after the tune. The car after tuned is going to stay the same, so the day you drove away with a tune your hp/tq as for the setting of TC, TM, etc. are the constant, the variable would be the additional 7K miles to the tires. The only other variable is this time of year provides cooler denser air which improves a cars performance, but I didn't pay attention to where you are located, so that may not be a factor. I'm still sticking with the tires & it would appear I'm the not only one of that opinion. I am certain at 10K my GYSCRFs had lost there ability to hold the car w/ apprx. 370rwhp. You have an LS3 w/ a tune & a CAI which is probably making better hp/tq #s. I really don't think there's some magic going on hear, these tires are simply not that good from the start & after 10K traction starts to diminish at an exponential rate. Drive 'til 13K like I did & it will become obvious the tires just don't hold.
...for anything to have changed after the tune. The car after tuned is going to stay the same, so the day you drove away with a tune your hp/tq as for the setting of TC, TM, etc. are the constant, the variable would be the additional 7K miles to the tires. The only other variable is this time of year provides cooler denser air which improves a cars performance, but I didn't pay attention to where you are located, so that may not be a factor. I'm still sticking with the tires & it would appear I'm the not only one of that opinion. I am certain at 10K my GYSCRFs had lost there ability to hold the car w/ apprx. 370rwhp. You have an LS3 w/ a tune & a CAI which is probably making better hp/tq #s. I really don't think there's some magic going on hear, these tires are simply not that good from the start & after 10K traction starts to diminish at an exponential rate. Drive 'til 13K like I did & it will become obvious the tires just don't hold.
Get some tires and find out, or borrow some from a freind.
Well, on all 3 of the C6's I have had they seem to perform much better once they have hit 10k miles. It's almost like a switch is thrown and they suddenly perk up even more. I have an 08 A6 with 342 gears and a Chuck COW tune and after the tune the thing would get loose on 2nd and 3rd gear changes. ALso, you don't mention where you live but now that the weather has cooled off in Wisconsin, the car makes even more power with the dense air and has less traction on cold streets.
C5pilot If you have your own tuning software check to see if your TC or AH has been disabled or reduced. If you don't, call Jeremy and ask him to check his copy of the tune he uploaded into your car to make sure they're enabled. There's no need to have them disabled all the time when you have a switch on the console.
He's right! Double check & make sure your TC & AH are not totally disabled. However, in retrospect, I also have an A6 with the same rear & a mild ESC tune. If it is cold out & I drive hard, not flat out, it also gets squirrely too. Two weeks ago I shifted around 3 grand & it'd go sideways into second and a little less into third. Personally, I don't think the tires help especially if the temp is below 55 deg. F. The runflats are hard & below 60 deg. F they're like bigass hockey pucks.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
You could always try not punching it to the floor in 1st and 2nd gear... The gas pedal is not an on/off switch and that's what anyone who has a very powerful car has to do... I get about 1/4 to 1/2 of throttle travel in 1st before the tires begin to break lose and I still manage to daily drive the car without leaving two black stripes at every stoplight.
...The car after tuned is going to stay the same, so the day you drove away with a tune your hp/tq as for the setting of TC, TM, etc. are the constant,
I agree 100%, and thought it odd too. He doesn't have his location listed so we can't really tell if it's temp related, so worn tires "seems" logical... Except, even if he's driving on bald tires, TC SHOULD stop ANY and ALL tire spin. Since it's not, and knowing his programming has been altered, I think it's safe to say he's had at least some, if not all, TC eliminated. If he lives up north, that's not a good idea, IMO.
Now that we know he has half tread, my hunch is the combination of lower temps, perhaps slightly harder (aging) tires, his programming has reached it's threashold for grip. And if it's to the point it's bothering him or has become a concern, he should ask Jeremy to look into it. It'll take all of 1 minute to see how the TM, TC, AH are set. Getting him reprogrammed is another story depending on where he lives.
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10-'11-'12-'13 '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
One other thing to consider. Depending on where you live, if the temperatures have dropped a lot with the onset of fall, and corresponding with the last couple of thousand miles, the car is pulling less timing. In other words its putting out more power and maybe that is what's happening.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
St. Jude donor in memory of jpee '14
The next time you drive and it happens take note of the DIC it should say active handling active......... if it does not then speak to the tuner.
If you see active handling on the DIC, check the rear tire pressure. When it is cooler outside our cars become a bit stronger so you may need to drop the air pressure in the rears a bit.
one other thing to consider. Depending on where you live, if the temperatures have dropped a lot with the onset of fall, and corresponding with the last couple of thousand miles, the car is pulling less timing. In other words its putting out more power and maybe that is what's happening.
i live in ft lauderdale florida and the traction prblems i am having happens in 85 degree temp with warmed up tires.after reading some of the messages on this board i am beginning to think my problem is the run flat tires, and the engine is a little looser and putting out more torque since i have over 10000 miles on it.thank you all for your help.
... But you do realize, it makes no difference to the TC and AH systems what condition your tires are in, they are supposed to stop wheel spin and yaw. If you are getting more than a squeak of tire spin or the car is going sideways, and the computer doesn't seem to mind, the system has been degraded. GM was thoughtful enough to put a switch on the console for when you're feeling frisky. Why would you want to lose that option?