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I recently bought a C6 A4 its an 05 When I bought it the same dealership also had a 6 speed manual, however I drag race almost every weekend in the Corvette Challenge in NJ...
Prior to my C6 I had a 96 LT1 automatic, and in the last 8 yrs I finished in the top 8 every yr.. not to mention the $$ I've won in various other races..
(PS I LOVE Manual Shift Cars!) However when making the decision to buy the Auto I remembered one race in particular, it was a "Final" round at E Town... the other car was a manual shift, & I "KNOW" I was late on the tree, but there was nothing I could do now except run it out.. at 1/2 track he was about 1 car length ahead, and all of a sudden I see his front end drop, I go past him, and finishing about 3/4 car ahead of him ... winning Some nice $$ .. After the race he told me Damn I missed 4th.. and that never happens.. (Always a 1st time)
So I bought the A4 knowing it will be a lot more consistent in 1/4 mile racing, and I never do any road course racing etc...
What I'm saying IF I never raced 1/4 mile I'd have bought the 6m but to be competitive in drag racing in GOOD competition you need an auto..
Well, yeah, it is common sense that an Auto is better for the track... It is just much easier to get perfect runs... But, I thoroughly believe that a manual car is a much more fun car and more enjoyable car. I will take the slower ET, for a more enjoyable car, anytime!
I agree with your assessment. I guess it all depends on whether you run at the track more and want to be consistent...or if you want to enjoy the car everyday you drive it.
maybe you should try a road course
there is a reason why they call them slushboxes...
I'm going to buy a vette next spring and i'm going m6, i guess i like to be in control, however if you're drag race exclusively the auto will give you the most consistent times
i have had several corvettes............never own a auto again..
m6 all the way....and i drag race.
Agreed But how many "Events" have you won.. NOT just 1 individual round... I mean like winning 6 or 7 consecutive rounds.. where you have to "Dial" your projected ET on the window, and you lose if you go faster than your Dial..
Sure I've won with a stick but only a few times, since I've got to auto (For Drag Racing) my win % had gone up a whole lot
If I ever decide to stop drag racing, the first thing I'll do is trade my car in for a 6M
Agreed But how many "Events" have you won.. NOT just 1 individual round... I mean like winning 6 or 7 consecutive rounds.. where you have to "Dial" your projected ET on the window, and you lose if you go faster than your Dial..
Sure I've won with a stick but only a few times, since I've got to auto (For Drag Racing) my win % had gone up a whole lot
If I ever decide to stop drag racing, the first thing I'll do is trade my car in for a 6M
M6 HAS MORE OF A FUN FACTOR, IF ITS DRAG RACING ....CAN'T BEAT A AUTO WITH A LARGE STALL..
Manual for autocross, Solo 2 or road racing. Auto for drag racing or everyday driving is shifting is inconvienent.
Autos are better for autocrossing. The most you use in autocrossing is 2nd gear (and even then you end up back in 1st pretty quick) but most courses are 1st gear only. You save time with the auto in upshifting/downshifting (there can be a lot on some courses), with the torque converter acting as a shock absorber you don't upset the chassis nearly as much (being smooth is critical in autoXing), you can left foot/trail brake easier, and you can concentrate on the course better (autoXing is more "technical" in that it has more "turns" and they come at you quick).
I would clean up on small parking lot autoXs and tight airport courses with the '71 'Vette I had (270 HP SAE gross/200 HP SAE net L48 350 and turbo 400) but on the road race courses, the 4-speed cars would get me...unless it was raining, then I would put seconds on them. They couldn't put the HP to the ground which equalized the power and I was crazier than them which helps you go a lot faster when racing in the rain. I use to mess with them by praying for rain...
Manual starts with MAN, know what I mean man?
I autocross in 3 on stock tires, and get very smooth, quicker results. Then I got the A6's and strated running in 1st gear. I love to shift, and have missed 3rd more than once at the strip. I just read the ZR1 may do the same into third and fifth if to try and rush it.
I recently bought a C6 A4 its an 05 When I bought it the same dealership also had a 6 speed manual, however I drag race almost every weekend in the Corvette Challenge in NJ...
Prior to my C6 I had a 96 LT1 automatic, and in the last 8 yrs I finished in the top 8 every yr.. not to mention the $$ I've won in various other races..
(PS I LOVE Manual Shift Cars!) However when making the decision to buy the Auto I remembered one race in particular, it was a "Final" round at E Town... the other car was a manual shift, & I "KNOW" I was late on the tree, but there was nothing I could do now except run it out.. at 1/2 track he was about 1 car length ahead, and all of a sudden I see his front end drop, I go past him, and finishing about 3/4 car ahead of him ... winning Some nice $$ .. After the race he told me Damn I missed 4th.. and that never happens.. (Always a 1st time)
So I bought the A4 knowing it will be a lot more consistent in 1/4 mile racing, and I never do any road course racing etc...
What I'm saying IF I never raced 1/4 mile I'd have bought the 6m but to be competitive in drag racing in GOOD competition you need an auto..
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
My thoughts: They are great on the drag strip... But on a real road... Well, I rented a Z-HZ (Hertz Rental C6) for 3 days, brought it back on the 2nd day because I absolutely couldn't stand the automatic transmission. It has the same torque converter technology my GF's 2001 Pontiac Sunfire had, and shifts the same way: very very slowly. The paddle shifter gimmick lags so much I had to tell it to start thinking about shifting 600-800RPM beforehand and some times it would still hit the rev limiter. In "D" it took so long to get going that I felt like the car was powered by a giant rubber band; I would put it to the floor and feel the revs wind out a little bit, then it would wait, shift, then wind out some more and go. Pathetic. I wouldn't buy an auto if it cost me $10,000 less...
BTW this comes up at least once a week, and within a page or two someone here is going to make the mistake of comparing the 1950s torque converter A4/A6 that you get in a $44K Chevy with the formula 1 derived dual clutch electro-hydraullic manu-matic transmission in a $250,000 Ferrari. And I am going to call that guy an idiot.
Last edited by PowerLabs; Nov 6, 2008 at 05:39 PM.
My thoughts: They are great on the drag strip... But on a real road... Well, I rented a Z-HZ (Hertz Rental C6) for 3 days, brought it back on the 2nd day because I absolutely couldn't stand the automatic transmission. It has the same torque converter technology my GF's 2001 Pontiac Sunfire had, and shifts the same way: very very slowly. The paddle shifter gimmick lags so much I had to tell it to start thinking about shifting 600-800RPM beforehand and some times it would still hit the rev limiter. In "D" it took so long to get going that I felt like the car was powered by a giant rubber band; I would put it to the floor and feel the revs wind out a little bit, then it would wait, shift, then wind out some more and go. Pathetic. I wouldn't buy an auto if it cost me $10,000 less...
BTW this comes up at least once a week, and within a page or two someone here is going to make the mistake of comparing the 1950s torque converter A4/A6 that you get in a $44K Chevy with the formula 1 derived dual clutch electro-hydraullic manu-matic transmission in a $250,000 Ferrari. And I am going to call that guy an idiot.
drive an auto setup right with gears and coverter like mine, and your always in the powerband
My thoughts: They are great on the drag strip... But on a real road... Well, I rented a Z-HZ (Hertz Rental C6) for 3 days, brought it back on the 2nd day because I absolutely couldn't stand the automatic transmission. It has the same torque converter technology my GF's 2001 Pontiac Sunfire had, and shifts the same way: very very slowly. The paddle shifter gimmick lags so much I had to tell it to start thinking about shifting 600-800RPM beforehand and some times it would still hit the rev limiter. In "D" it took so long to get going that I felt like the car was powered by a giant rubber band; I would put it to the floor and feel the revs wind out a little bit, then it would wait, shift, then wind out some more and go. Pathetic. I wouldn't buy an auto if it cost me $10,000 less...
BTW this comes up at least once a week, and within a page or two someone here is going to make the mistake of comparing the 1950s torque converter A4/A6 that you get in a $44K Chevy with the formula 1 derived dual clutch electro-hydraullic manu-matic transmission in a $250,000 Ferrari. And I am going to call that guy an idiot.
Originally Posted by dennis50nj
drive an auto setup right with gears and coverter like mine, and your always in the powerband
drive an auto setup right with gears and coverter like mine, and your always in the powerband
ABSOLUTELY! Right now I still have the stock converter (3200 on the way) but I have had a "Tune to both the engine, & shift points... with the "Stock" converter and rear, I've run 12.11 with a 1.84 60' time... I'm betting I'll see 1.6x 60' times with the right converter..
My 96 LT1 was set up RIGHT .. it would 60' in 1.65-1.70 and shift NOW & HARD...
My C6 shift hard and at the proper RPM.. its only problem is it need more converter... Then I'll be running the 11.5 and 12.0 Index races next yr..
ABSOLUTELY! Right now I still have the stock converter (3200 on the way) but I have had a "Tune to both the engine, & shift points... with the "Stock" converter and rear, I've run 12.11 with a 1.84 60' time... I'm betting I'll see 1.6x 60' times with the right converter..
My 96 LT1 was set up RIGHT .. it would 60' in 1.65-1.70 and shift NOW & HARD...
My C6 shift hard and at the proper RPM.. its only problem is it need more converter... Then I'll be running the 11.5 and 12.0 Index races next yr..
i think you will need headers highflow cats for the 11.50 when it gets hot out you will need gears, maybe even sooner if you are deep staging