Hi all:

I am thinking about a new cam for my 2006 A6. I have talked to a shop that I may use, and they recommended a Comp 224/224. I do not want to install a stall converter, and the guy at the shop felt that this cam will give me up to 40 hp increase while at the same time not being too aggressive. I occasionally go to the drag strip as well as one to two road races per year. The shop also felt that this cam with my mods would not put too much force on the rear end to cause problems. My knowledge of cams is limited. Here are the mods I currently have. I appreciate your thoughts on this 224/224 arrangement.

Mods
Melrose Headers, X Pipe, Hi Flow Cats, Callaway Honker, Tune, Z06 Sway Bars, Lloyds Mats, 3.15 gears

 

I think you are right on the money. When I was looking a cam for my A6 I spoke to everyone and Pat G from tech said 224 was about the "max" he advised without a converter. I can say this, my cam is a Vengeance spec'd @ 224/235/610/620/115 and it does lope a little but with the idle @ 725, it does not push on the brakes at all and behaves like stock, under light load. I could have even gone a bit more now but Im not changing a cam until I change the shortblock.

Vid for you

http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t=MVI_2103.flv

You will love it with a cam but BE SURE to get Chuck to tune the TCM, serriously.

 

Depends on which 224 cam you go with. I ran a 224R from Texas Speed in my 01 Z28. It was a great cam, but it had the XER lobes so it had .581 lift, plus it had a decent amound of overlap with a LSA of 112 degrees.

The consensus on LS1Tech, back when I did this cam was that you use the 112 LSA for a manual car and a 114 LSA for an automatic. I know I wouldn't have wanted the 112 LSA in an auto, I had to bump up the idle to around 850 rpm to make it idle and that would drive you crazy with a stock converter (car would want to creep all the time at idle).

I would think the 224 with 114 LSA and .581 lift would be a decent cam for an auto.

 

should be alright. You might be able to go a little bigger on the exhuast side and get a lift of around 595 or so and still be good. It depends on your tune and your idle to. If you keep the idle around 700 it wont pull at idle as bad.

 

I am running a Comp Cam XR275HR which specs to
.222/.224
.566/.568
112 lsa (I am old school and wanted a cam lope at idle)

However I did increase the specs of the cam as I installed 1.8 ratio Yella Terra roller rockers

Per Yella Terra specs changed to:
.224/.226
.599/.601

I am experiencing no driveablity problems (no trans modifications), my idle rpms is set at 150 rpms over factory setting which would be about 725-750 rpms, no problems in running the air conditioner and idling and with the low idle rpm no creeping.

Here is a sound clip of the cam with the roller rockers installed, see my signature for the rest of the mods.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAYWxjYgZ80

 

If I remember correctly there was post recently w/ a member singing it's praises & based on a better than average knowledge on mods vs output his performance #s where astounding. I believe he had ported heads added but was making something like 470 rwhp on what is still a very mild cam. Of course you didn't mention int./exh specs which changes everything. I have a 6MN & still choose 114 LSA which really is nice to drive although the cam is bigger 228/232 but it has exceptional street manners, but from a power perspective it really shines making 400rwtq @3750rpms maxing at 418, & 452 rwhp. I recommend a search & also it may be worth asking you tuner & others what they think of the 224/228, as I believe depending on the int/exh specs combined w/ a 114 LSA you will be fine w/o adding stall to your auto, have little if any changes in driveability w/o leaving any HP on the table. Best of luck!

 

If you get totally confused.....it happens.

PM Anthony from LG and he will take care of you, they are awesome.

 

Crane Cams is also getting jumping on the 224 Degree bandwagon. See this new product announcement, NEW CRANE CAMS FOR CHEVY LS ENGINES, particularly the 1449091, 1449101, and 1449121 part numbers. Not on this list, but also a new Crane cam using the LSHS (LS High Speed) lobes, is new Crane cam part no. 1449111:

Pt. No. 1449111: 224º/228º - 0.590”/0.590” – 114º LSA - +4º advance


.

 

The 224 single pattern is a great choice for your A6. The latest results I have seen for a single pattern produced great results. The intake lobe should be an XFI or XER and the exhaust lobe can be either but I would think an XER would be fine.

Guys that get lope with a 224/235 or such big split have more overlap due to the (not needed) huge split. Bringing the exhaust lobe down in size makes it better mannered and loses nothing in the power curve. I cant recall the tuner but they made 433rwhp on stock heads with an XFI lobe 224/224 on a 113LSa and it looks to me to be exactly what you need. Dont go with more exhaust duration. It isnt needed and definitely smooths out the cam not having the exatra overlap.

Andy @ A&A has used so many 224/224 cams in his FI builds that it settles the debate of just how much exhaust duration anyone would need. If FI doenst need it with the 243 head a N/A car doesnt either.

Even single pattern cams with the LS3 and L92 heads have been proven to be a myth. Jason from texas speed has gotten the same power with a 228 single pattern as most standard split cams using more exhaust duration. Bigger exhaust lobes dont do much of anything but create more overlap.

 

Posted 11-01-2998 at 9:48, go to page 2 & read post # 24 by TTRotary see what you think & discuss w/ your tuner. As stated, he has 243 ported heads & a few other goodies but his numbers are 485rwhp/442rwtq which is strong by anyone's standards. Now that said, if the setup is over the top for your goals than perhaps the 224/224 may be the proper choice. And as always I value Spin's opinion, but I also value research combined w/ the knowledge only you have. What exactly are you collective goals. When it comes to cams I listen more than preach. But take the time to look at the thread, there's a lot of great info to see all that's out there & the opinions to go along. My advice always ends up w/ being very specific on goals in every area - perfomance, driveability, lope, lack of lope, whatever you know you want & equally important what you don't. Discuss it thoroughly w/ your tuner, assuming that's who is doing the install & tune, to insure you get what you want. Unfortunetly many folks only discuss what they want in terms of dyno #s & don't ask what they may be sacrificing & in the end are unhappy except when they post their dyno sheets. Best of luck!

 

I run more exhaust duration for N20, otherwise it would have been a 224/224 or 224/228.

 

Appreciate everyone's thoughts. If I go with the 224/224, what LSA should I look for? Some saay 112 is more appropriate for manuals and 116 for autos. You recommend a 113. Any additional thoughts?

 

114, 114+2 or 115.

 

114 or + will be fine. It's very easy to live w/ the proper tune.

 

First, I would like to thank everyone who responded to my original post. Especially those who took the time and trouble to post AV links to their Vettes. I am going with a 224/224 cam with an LSA of 114 +2. I really do not understand what the "+2" does, but both you guys and my shop guy said it was the way to go. Again, thanks to all for your advice.

 

You will love it, it will totally change the cars attitude. Then you will crave the mods even more!

 

+2 means that the cam is ADVANCED 2 degrees, so everything happens 2 degrees sooner. Primarily, the intake valve CLOSES 2 degrees sooner, so at low RPM you are trapping more of the intake charge, before the piston coming up in the cylinder after bottom dead center can push it back into the intake manifold. This improves torque at low RPM, say 1500 to 3000.

Conversely at around 6000 rpm you would RETARD the cam, so the intake valve closes LATER, allowing the inertia of the moving air column, and any ram tuning working at that rpm, to shove more air into the cylinder before the intake valve closes. Retarding the camshaft generally adds power at the very top end.

Hmmmm, I write long sentences :o .