Wheel Widening Questions
My questions/concerns:
1. How wide can I make the rim without having to use spacers and/or file/grind off metal like Powerlabs had to in his thread regarding his experience with this modification?
2. Based on the width I can make the rim in response to the question above, how wide of a tire can I install on the rear without it sticking out of the fender and/or having a threat of rubbing something?
3. Once I do the mod, should I lower the car and, if so, should I do it on the stock bolts or should I get aftermarket lowering bolts?
4. Which R compound rubber should I run? A good friend of mine with three very successful and heavily modified time attack cars (that he still drives on the street, two of the daily) has made one suggestion, I see others made on the forum. I will be attacking the corners with some vigor more regularly than I test my straight line acceleration but I also want traction in a straight line so that I can improve my 60' time. The best 60' time I can achieve on the stock SuperCar RFs is 2.0 and I am looking to improve upon the same.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
My questions/concerns:
1. How wide can I make the rim without having to use spacers and/or file/grind off metal like Powerlabs had to in his thread regarding his experience with this modification?
2. Based on the width I can make the rim in response to the question above, how wide of a tire can I install on the rear without it sticking out of the fender and/or having a threat of rubbing something?
3. Once I do the mod, should I lower the car and, if so, should I do it on the stock bolts or should I get aftermarket lowering bolts?
4. Which R compound rubber should I run? A good friend of mine with three very successful and heavily modified time attack cars (that he still drives on the street, two of the daily) has made one suggestion, I see others made on the forum. I will be attacking the corners with some vigor more regularly than I test my straight line acceleration but I also want traction in a straight line so that I can improve my 60' time. The best 60' time I can achieve on the stock SuperCar RFs is 2.0 and I am looking to improve upon the same.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
2. 305 is as wide as I would suggest you go
3. That's up to you. The stock lowering bolts are fine up to about 1/2" in the rear and a bit more in the front. Any more than that and you may compromise the suspension characteristics
4. Opinions vary on which R-compound, but a good road-racing tire is not a good drag tire and vice-versa.
San




My questions/concerns:
1. How wide can I make the rim without having to use spacers and/or file/grind off metal like Powerlabs had to in his thread regarding his experience with this modification?
2. Based on the width I can make the rim in response to the question above, how wide of a tire can I install on the rear without it sticking out of the fender and/or having a threat of rubbing something?
3. Once I do the mod, should I lower the car and, if so, should I do it on the stock bolts or should I get aftermarket lowering bolts?
4. Which R compound rubber should I run? A good friend of mine with three very successful and heavily modified time attack cars (that he still drives on the street, two of the daily) has made one suggestion, I see others made on the forum. I will be attacking the corners with some vigor more regularly than I test my straight line acceleration but I also want traction in a straight line so that I can improve my 60' time. The best 60' time I can achieve on the stock SuperCar RFs is 2.0 and I am looking to improve upon the same.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Use a 305 tire like a Nitto 555r2 or the R888 of the same size. Handling wont be better.




My questions/concerns:
1. How wide can I make the rim without having to use spacers and/or file/grind off metal like Powerlabs had to in his thread regarding his experience with this modification?
2. Based on the width I can make the rim in response to the question above, how wide of a tire can I install on the rear without it sticking out of the fender and/or having a threat of rubbing something?
3. Once I do the mod, should I lower the car and, if so, should I do it on the stock bolts or should I get aftermarket lowering bolts?
4. Which R compound rubber should I run? A good friend of mine with three very successful and heavily modified time attack cars (that he still drives on the street, two of the daily) has made one suggestion, I see others made on the forum. I will be attacking the corners with some vigor more regularly than I test my straight line acceleration but I also want traction in a straight line so that I can improve my 60' time. The best 60' time I can achieve on the stock SuperCar RFs is 2.0 and I am looking to improve upon the same.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
The tire isnt completely under the fender as it sits stock and rock chips will be an issue with a spacer in the 3/9 oclock position on the rear fenders.
This is how it looks with the 305/35/18 Nitto 555r2:

The next is with the MT 305/35/18 ET street on an 11" wide with no spacer:

I dont see why you would want the wheel to ride outside the fender in some places like that with no benefit. It already is out 1/4" from where the 19" stock rim sits.
In this picture you see where the wheel is already riding the line where rock chips will be an issue and there is no spacer:

In my opinion people are placing way too much emphasis on the spacer idea which is complicating a very simple mod that works without issue as it is. I agree the front wheel sits in a bit far but thats the way it came from the factory so why does it become an issue when the rears are widened? Do the mod and live with it. I have no rock chips or other issues with this 11" wide wheel and the stickiest tire available.
Please understand the inner fender liner is not flush with the outside visible fender. Stop looking at the outside of the fender only, and bend down to see where the liner is before you move the wheel out any more.
The only time you will ever have control arm contact is jacking up the car and thats as simple as jacking from the control arm. I ran this for 2 years and didnt have any contact and belive me, I tried to make it touch. I DIDNT REMOVE ANYTHING FROM THE CONTROL ARM AND I DONT CARE THAT I HAVE TO JACK UP EACH SIDE OF THE CAR ONE AT A TIME TO CHANGE THE WHEELS IF AND WHEN THAT MAY HAPPEN.
Its my sincere wish that many, many people do this mod and enjoy the benefits of traction. I didnt do it and keep the best way of going fast in a vette to myself because I wanted it copied. I get upset when a great mod is ruined when people think there si something wrong or needing a band-aid fix when its awesome on its own standing. The wheels do not need a spacer to look good. They already are 1/4" out from the 19" rim's position and looks great jujst like that. Dont let the spacer stall you on the single best thing you can do to make your car the fastest it can be. Use it, say thanks if you like and make a donation to St Judes
Last edited by SpinMonster; Apr 22, 2009 at 12:41 AM.




San
I will go with your advice and go 11" wide with some 305s. I am looking forward to the extra stick as I am sick of my buddy having a .5 advantage in the first 60' and I am looking forward to having the ability to stick it in the corners. Him and his damn awd ricer cars (STI and EVO)
Hey, if you know the address to St. Judes for mailing in donations, please advise as I will, once again, take your advice and send in a check from the office account.
I will advise as to the results upon completion.........
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I much appreciate the R&D you put into this Spin and I will be making a donation to St. Judes as well.
San


I much appreciate the R&D you put into this Spin and I will be making a donation to St. Judes as well.








